1068253080 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

Simple read about three of the other peoples repairs,did the same and (PIECE OF CAKE)
Only problem ordered the cam kit with shipping over # 18.oo and only needed two pieces to do the job. Should have ordered just the two cams and saved a lot of dough.
But done and over with a happy camper (WIFE)

remove door, replace cam, replace door

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Removed the cover plate on top. Used a wrench and the nut driver to remove the three screws & the screw holding the grounding wire. Pulled apart the plastic coupling for the wiring to light the freezer. Then with the aid of a friend - lifted the door (with food removed from door shelves) off the hinge. This freezer had a water line which we didin't know how to disconnect so we were careful to move the door slightly away from the broken hinge, set it on a stool with one person holding the door steady while the other person installed the new hinge piece. Definitely takes two people (as suggested in the directions) to both lift and guide the door into place. Once it was in place - I reinserted the screws up top and tightened them. Then had to untighten them to get the door to line up as it should vertically - so I would suggest just lighten tighen the upper screws until the door is aligned and swinging smoothly. Then reattached ground wire and plastic coupling. Works great.

Followed the video instructions.

Remove one 5/16 screw from top hinge cover plate. Trace outline of hinge on top of refrigerator with sharpie, so you will know where to put hinge back. Remove 3 5/16 screws from hinge. Lift door up out of bottom hinge, place on table to be able to work on. Remove one 5/16 screw and upper cam piece from bottom of door and replace with new upper cam piece. Remove one 5/16 screw and lower cam piece from bottom hinge on refrigerator. Replace with new lower cam piece and one screw Set door back in place and reattach top hinge with 3 screws adjust refrigerator door as needed for a nice even gap between freezer and refrigerator doors. Tighten screws down and put hinge cover back on with one screw.

Removed all of the food from the door by lifting the shelves out. Unbolted the top door hinge, and lifted the door off. Replaced the cam and placed the door back on, re-bolted the top hinge and placed all of the food and shelving back into the door. The door closes and seals when it is shut.

Pop off six mounting screws and the ground screw. Remove the fan blade and reattach. Reinstall. Save yourself big bucks.

It's self-explanatory. The procedure is obvious; it's just a little difficult. The only hard part is attaching the mounting brackets to the fan. If you can't tighten the mounting bolts, loosen them and reposition the brackets. You might end up mispositioning them at first, because they are hard to reach.

Following the instructions on the site I removed the upper hinge cover and hinge(after removing the shelves from the door). I replaced both cams on the bottom hinge, reinstalled the door and the problem was solved. A couple of hints that may speed up the process: 1. On installing the door cam, I didn't get the holes in the door and cam aligned well due to a bit of interference from the metal tab on the door, so I temporarily inserted the upper hinge pivot in the bottom hole and retightened the cam. 2. I decide to re-align the freezer door . After this, the ice and water dispensers didn't work. Turns out the internal freezer light switch which also acts as a cutoff switch for the door dispensers wasn't being activated. Easy to adjust once the cause was discovered.

I did some tests and determined that the tub-to-pump drain hose had a leak in it.I then looked on the web to find disassembly instructions. I have a stacked washer dryer combination in a very confined space. The repair involved disconnecting both the washer and dryer from the water, gas, electric and venting systems first, then unstacking the dryer from the washer (not so easy, it required a helper). The machine was then pulled out so I could get at the parts necessary to remove the outside components and sheet metal. Then, I disassembled the top, front and access panel in the back. The disassembly went very well. I got access to the drain hose assembly and removed it fairly easily. I ordered a replacement drain hose assembly and found that installing the large port of the assembly was very difficult. (The two other ports were easy.) After thinking about it, I tilted the machine back a bit so I could try it from the bottom. That worked fine.I then reassembled and tested the machine. No leaks. Good luck with yours!

I got the product very quickly. (thank you) Looked at online instructions that were quite vague. Pulled plug.Removed the holder for the fan motor slid it out to see what I had. Removed the mounting screws (3) and slid the motor an fan blade out. I made a cut between the wires and marked the "top" wire to motor to be sure to spin in right direction. Removing fan blade hold down clamp was NOT explained at all but I noted that the shaft on the motor was threaded, so I used pliars and held the shaft white un-screwing clamp. I cleaned the fan blades with degreaser and scraped edges of opening on holder opening. Make sure to use ALL the NEW parts included with this kit when re-installing. They send them for a reason. When slpicing and connecting wires it is a 50/50 shot if you don't mark before cutting. You can connect and try plugging fridge back for moment and make sure it is blowing OUT. Put everything back together and after turning DOWN the thermostats twice, fridge is back to usual. Ice maker is cranking out ice and outside case is cool to the touch.

Note: This can be a DIRTY job especially with 4 dogs in house. Fir and grease don't mix well

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

1, Removed heavy items from door bottom two shelves.
2. With door closed, prop up door with 2x4 boards and wood shim to support door weight.
3. With nut driver, wrench or socket wrench remove lower door hindge.
4. Removed worn plastic door cams and shim.
5. Install new door cams and shim.
6. Install lower door hindge and lubricate cams with silicone grease.
7. Remove wood bracing.

Replacing the support clips was simple. But since the replacements were the same as the ones that had failed, I modified them by epoxying metal strips on each side of the fingers which had failed. Without this mod I think they would have failed very shortly like the original ones did. This added a half hour to the repair.