25319531994 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

I bought the freezer second hand, When I really started using it all the time it was inconvenient for the single items to reach down in three feet of larger frozen items.

I went to a store to see about getting a basket, They told me the next time I was there, get them the model number and they would see what they could do.

I just came home and got the model number and put name of the freezer in the search engine, Bingo it was done and I win.

Only took a couple days and my new basket was here. I am so pleased I ordered a second one.

Bought a new
capacitor.

I removed all of the expandable pins that held the gasket and the inner door panel, and removed the old gasket from the inner door panel. The new gasket was then placed around the edges of the inner panel. While holding the gasket and panel in the proper location, the expandable pins were inserted into the mounting holes, finishing the installation.

This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!

I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.

The site offers a video for this part which worked perfectly. In addition to replacing the part, since the cardboard panel was off, we also cleaned all the dust off of the coils which someone recommended to do annually.

Needed a Phillips head screwdriver to remove bottom plate (kick panel). UNPLUGGED FREEZER. Removed plate pulled switch out through the mounting hole and unhooked the two electric wires. Placed wires on new switch, pushed wires back through the hole and seated the switch. Plugged in the freezer and opened the door - magic, the light came on. Replaced the front kick panel (hardest part was to line up the plate holes with the holes in the mounting bracket).

Remove the 6 screws with a 5/16 inch nut driver. Make sure the lid gasket is in full contact all the way around. Remove any ice interfering with the lid gasket mating properly. Install new hinge using the original screws. Have somebody hold up the lid and tighten the spring nut with a deep 1/2 inch socket gradually until the lid stays up by itself.

Opened mailer and bag and place the drain plug into the drain. fit perfectly. In fact it is better than the one lost since the original needed a screwdriver or tool to remove the plug. This one has a flang or finger turner on it so that it can be removed. Also, does not interfere with items in bottom of freezer.

I removed the plate (recommend using a magnetic phillips head screw driver to remmove screws which are recessed). I removed the old part and pushed the new part through the hole and carefully reached in behindto attach the wires to the new part.

Used the flat edge of a screwdriver, which caused me to break off the corners of the plastic shield. Be nice if their was a tool to grab the anchors to pull them out

Defrosted freezer, hose broke due to dry-rot. Used towels to let water drain into pan. Now with the plug minimal frost build-up. No ice at all. Now if I could get a new hose to drain the water that would be great.

A little research told me the hum plus no cooling was either the compressor or the relay. I ordered the new relay and put it in but it didn't fix the problem. I ended up having to buy a new fridge, but it was worth the $30 gamble to see if I could fix it on the cheap and it saved me the money a service call would've cost. Pretty easy installation, just in a tight space on my model.

Ordered the Capacitor and the Thermostat Control. Parts were received in a matter of a few days, easy to install, but did not fix the problem. Had to call a repairman to fix the problem (compressor relay - this part not available to order for this model number with Parts Select). Will continue to use Parts Select in the future for other parts, but not happy that the actual part I needed was not available - had to use other methods.

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.