25329082990 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

1. Turned off and unplugged the refrigerator.
2. Removed the lower back panel inside the freezer with a screwdriver.
3. Unplugged the thermostat. (No tool is needed)
4. Ordered a new thermostat from PartSelect and it arrived in 2 business days.
5. Plugged in the new thermostat..
6. Put the lower back panel inside the freezer with screwdriver.
7. Plugged in the Refrigerator and turned the power back on.
8. It is working again!!!

Removed the numerous screws and took the door panel off. Cleaned and dried it. Replaced the insulation and hung the penal with 2 screws at the top and sides. Started to fit the gasket under the edge of the panel and put on the screws as I went across the top then down the sides finishing across the bottom. Perfect fit but could not get the door to seal at all. Went out and bought a new freezer(did I say it was 17 yrs old?!?!).

I knew that the problem had to do with the timer so I went online and looked at the schematic diagrams on Partselect and identified the part that should handle the problem. I ordered it and it arrived fairly quickly. It took a Phillips screw driver and about fifteen minutes to remove the old part and replace it with the new one. Very easy repair. It is working as it should now.

I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.

Looking on-line at your diagnostic for this problem, I saw the most common part to cause this problem was the start capacitor, so I purchased one & installed it with no positive outcome. I then purchased the next recommended part which was a defrost timer & installed it with no run again. Frustrated, I looked at another diagnostic web site that claimed 90% of the time the problem is caused by the cold control thermostat. I tested mine and it tested bad, so I bought a control elsewhere, since your site did not list a PN for that device. I installed the new control and the freezer started up correctly. Looking at the wiring diagram for these parts, I see the start capacitor and defrost control are downstream of the cold control thermostat, and to my mind should have been the first part recommended for testing versus the parts I bought, so I am somewhat disappointed in the diagnostics on your site, where I spent about $80 for parts that were functional.

Removed two screws and wire harness from old motor. Put in new motor and connected wire harness.

took the shelves out, unscrewed the rear panel,unpluged the thermistat and uncliped it from the line.Replaced with new thermistat in the reverse order. Before turning the unit back on,allowed the coils to defrost.All of the process was shown in your vidio that I was able to view while ordering the part. Thank you

Had to drag the full freezer out from the wall to expose the name plate, got the Model # and S/N and found the key on the partselect website in minutes. It was cheap so I got two. Other than FEDEX not knowing my address correctly, when I finally got the key it worked fine. Not a problem anymore.
Thanks

Purchased new freezer.

I originally ordered an aftermarket replacement seal off intranet at half the price. It came in poor packaging & crumpled in a ball when received. After install, it would not seal & worse than the old seal that was replaced. I removed poor quality seal & returned it. I then ordered the OEM seal from PartSelect. It came in proper packaging. I kept the inside door shelving in place with two mid screws. Beginning at top I inserted sealing grove into channel of shelving working all the way around door frame. Making sure there was no crinkles or bulges at one place & it was all even. I replaced all screws ensuring not to over tighten. Close door and made sure magnetic seal pull closed to freezer & door on both sides by sliding my finger all the way around. I did not open the door for 1 hour to ensure rubber seal had taken proper shape to freezer frame. After I worked door Open/Close many times. Door seal worked perfectly every time then and now. This is a perfect example why to buy quality parts the first time.

Remove door remove old gasket, put new seal in dryer for 10 minutes to help it shape better then install new gasket with about 50 screws

i looked byhind the freezer , the mottor has the relay connected to it.i took out the relay, and i descovery something was loose inside, i decided to take to check out at sears to see if they have in stock that especific relay. they did not have, they could order, that's when i dicided to go ahead and looking for in the internet, good i found PARTSELECT,they had the part and i was very nice attended,they sent in 2 days i had fix my freezer. thanks PARTSELECT. gilmar couto.

The site offers a video for this part which worked perfectly. In addition to replacing the part, since the cardboard panel was off, we also cleaned all the dust off of the coils which someone recommended to do annually.

My issue was water leaking from the door. I thought it was the gasket, so I removed the gasket and the entire panel off of the door. There was water behind it that had soaked the cardboard seal, so I left that front part off for over a week to let it dry. We determined between us and our two toddlers that perhaps the door hadn't been properly closed enough on a number of occasions, so before I bought a $100 gasket, I'd try making sure the door was shut with tape, turning the freezer on and seeing what happened. There was no water after a few days, so on another user's suggestion I purchased the $15 key and twist tied it to the freezer door. Now I am locking the door after use so we won't have leaking water any longer.

Like another post, the start relay rattled like a baby rattle. Replaced the start relay and freezer works great.