1068265910 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

Had no problem at all it took about 5 minutes to get the tray off and about 5 minutes to put new tray on.New part fit perfect. Thanks Robert Lovern

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

Followed the awesome Youtube video posted by PartSelect! Gave me the confidence to do it, and I'm glad I did. Thanks everyone at PartSelect!

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

Removed the screw from the old tray. Attached the new tray and return the screw using a wrench to assure the screw was torqued properly.

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.

I have a KitchenAid side-by-side refrigerator and the right door clunked everytime it opened. We think it was damaged when contractors had to move the fridge and probably were too rough with it. I went on line and found that I could actually repair it myself (thanks to this web site, a great web site, by the way). I researched and found out through others that I needed a new door closing CAM kit. I only needed to fix 1 door, but bought the whole kit anyway (PS358690, Door Closing Cam Kit)to have spares. The kit showed up, I followed the great instructions via the video to remove the door, replaced the upper CAM on the door first and then ran into a snafu with the lower cam. The hinge on my model fridge does not have a replaceable CAM, it is physically attached to the door hinge. The instructions that came with the kit showed a hinge that was not my hinge - sigh. I had to put back all the old clunky parts, put the door back on and go order a new hinge (hopefully). Luckily there was a hinge available for my model with the CAM installed. I purchased it (PS331817, Door Hinge with Cam) and it came quickly like the other parts. I took the door off again (I knew how to do it this time), I replaced the hinge with ease, put the door back on and it is no CLUNK-FREE - Smooth like when we bought it. Thanks to everyone who wrote in about their clunking issues and thanks to PartSelect for the parts and the help.

I watched the video and then ordered the parts. My job was a little easier because the door was already tapped for a 10-32 bolt. Total time including set and tear down was less than an hour. Watching the video first made the job very simple.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

(1)Remove all items stored in the inner door. (2)Remove all the shelves from the inner door. (3) Remove the top hinge cover screw and remove rhe hinge cover. (4) Remove the upper hinge (5) lift the door out of the lower hinge bracket and lay flat on a table or counter top. (6) Swap out the old parts with the new parts. (6) reassemble.

I watched the video on you tube and followed his instructions. It was very easy, it took about 20 minutes from start to finish.

Emptied the inside door. Took out the screws from the top hinge. Lifted the door off the bottom hinge. Laid the door on the kitchen table. Replaced the cam on the door. Replaced the cam on the bottom hinge. Placed door back on bottom hinge and put screws back on top.