25328459809 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

removed screws with from the back panel of the freezer; located defrost thermostat attached to coil with a metal clip; unplugged thermostat and replaced with the new one. Put every thing back together and it works perfectly.

After testing and eliminating the temperature control and the timer as the problem, I turned to the thermostat. I had to wait for the ice buildup to thaw and then could remove the rear freezer panel (this was the 3rd time: first, to discover the ice buildup causing the problem, second when it came back after a complete thaw and test the thermostat, and this time to put the Partselect thermostat back in). My thermostat was visibly damaged from water melting into ice and expanding the casing and eventually breaking one of the connections. I connected the thermostat connection wires (not recommended) to get by while ordering the part, which shipped faster than local repair places could get it from their warehouses, and at a fraction of the cost. I'm really impressed with partselect's fast service and all the knowledgable customers who have explained how they installed them. I now have an intimate knowledge of how my fridge works and saved hundreds in repair, or twice that in replacement. Thanks!

Parts Select is an excellent source for help and parts identification. I highly recomend them.
My first option was to replace the defrost timer.
After still getting ice and frost buildup in freezer I decided to replace the defrost thermostat.
Remove all shelves. Losen icemaker if applicable. Remove light cover and bulb. Remove all screws securing rear vertical cover. Carefully move back panel, disconnect icemaker and bulb assembly. carefully remove styrofoam cover at upper left and remove defrost thermostat. I tested the thermostat and found it was defective. It would not close circuit after being placed in a working freezer. Reverse procedure to replace thermostat.
This solved the problem

Unplugged freezer from electrical socket. Removed lower trays from freezer. Removed sound proof stripping from sides of back panel. Removed upper, lower and side screws from back, lower panel using No. 2 phillips screwdriver. Disconnected motor wires from quick disconnect power supply. Removed motor bracket from freezer back using nut driver. Removed motor from bracket using same nut driver. Replaced motor and screws in bracket. reattached quick disconnect. Attached fan blade to motor making certain to push blade on shaft securely. Replaced bracket to freezer back. Replaced back cover. Replaced stripping. Plugged into power supply. Total time 15-20 minutes.

When i found out there was no thread in brace where bolts were supposed to screw in, I panicked. I thought I would have to send part back or go to a machine shop to make a thread. I called a friend for help and he told me the bolts would make the thread if I just screwed them in. Sure enough, the bolts made the thread and then I just proceeded to instal motor and put refrigerator back together. It was simple.

Remove the cover panel inside the freezer, remove and replace the fan motor (pull fan blades off old motor and push on the new one) and replace the cover.

Pulled freezer out from where located to allow shelves to be removed.Unplugged unit, removed shelves and evaporator cover, installed new fan motor. Plugged unit up to check fan motor operation. Reassembled unit, installed shelves and moved freezer back into original location.

Followed the sites instructions. Empty the bottom part of the freezer. Remove the screws. Move the panel out of the way. Easily remove the old part and replace with the new. Put the panel and screws back in place. The freezer works.

The evaporator fan would make a very high-pitched whine/squealing noise usually after starting up after a defrost cycle, although, it would make the same noises during normal operation. After performing a thorough inspection of the fan blade and motor, I discovered that there was no interference to the rotating fan, and realized the motor must be failing. After removing the food and racks from the main body of the freezer, I had to remove 8 Philips-tipped screws that held the inside back panel cover on. I disconnected the fan motor from the main wiring harness, removed the fan mounting bracket (2 5/16" hex head screws), and then removed the fan motor from the mounting bracket (2 5/16" hex head bolts. I removed the fan blade and conducted a visual inspection, and found not blemishes of broken/damaged pieces. I mounted the new motor and used the existing fan blade, and replaced everything in the reverse order. I turned on the freezer and it has been operating perfectly since. I disassembled the old motor and discovered that the stator coils were worn, and the bearings allowed to much forward/aft motion.

Replaced fan. I ordered the fan and received it the following.(-:

Replaced freezer defrost thermostat. Unit worked perfectly.

Watched video on Part Select which shows you how to replace the thermostat with several good pointers. Very easily done and now the freezer works great.

Removed three screws each side to remove old slides. Needed spacers under new slide so that drawer would stay on track. Cut old slide to make spacers and installed both slides in 15 mins.

The sliding shelf side rail is held by three philips head screws that tighten into nut inserts. No amount of tightening would keep two of the three screws tight. I found that the nut inserts which are plastic and insert into the side of the freezer would pull loose, probably from years of overloading the sliding shelf basket. Ordered two nut inserts from PartSelect. 1. Remove three screws to remove shelf slide side rail. 2. Remove nut inserts to be replaced with needle nose pliers or reinsert screw a couple of turns and pull nut insert out with pliers. 3. Insert new nut inserts, position side rail, and tighten screws. Replace sliding shelf/basket.

Ordered freezer key friday afternoon received it saturday afternoon. Fast service