79575546401 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

Gave model number on website, found picture of icemaker section. Ordered part that came in 3 days and switched old for new

I found a crack in the pex line from the valve up the back of the refrigerator to the water filter. I could not find the correct 5/16" size line locally to replace it. A guy in plumbing at Home Depot said he always repaired them by cutting out the crack and finding a piece of clear vinyl line that would fit tightly over the cracked pex to splice in a fix with hose clamps. I did that and it was a really bad idea. The line was obviously fatigued and failing because it just cracked further up and leaked again. I then looked up and ordered the correct line (actually both the supply and return since they were available). Installing the new lines was a breeze. The pex connectors are simple to disconnect and reconnect. Wish I had done that to start with. I looked for a youtube video for the proper replacement steps but all I found was a video of a guy who cut out a crack and stuck a pex connector in to replace the cracked section. By doing that he pulled slack from the valve end of the line which didn't exist and cracked the line again. I don't know why anyone would mess with patching one of these lines. The correct parts are available, cut to the right length, and removing and replacing them at the valve and the filter is dead simple.

Uncoupled the old connector, replaced with new connector and attached supply line. Repair easy with right part, prior to ordering the right part I had tried a compression fitting and it still leaked. U-tube and others demonstrating repair assured me I was on the right path.

Removed the old, replaced with new. . . That easy.

replace piece

Changed door switch. Repair worked for a few days but re-occured. Possibly the other switch is bad .

Replaces door switches - removed screw from door hinge cover, lifted cover and removed switch. Plugged in new switch and reversed process. Removed screws from light bracket. Attached new frame to slots in roof and used screws to attach. Clipped on light cover.

Real Easy

Simply used a flat head screwdriver to get the first few inches of the gasket out of its track and after that just pulled it by hand. New gasket slipped over the door, lined up the corner and pressed into in the track. Checked to see that it was snug all over and we were done. 5 minutes at the very most. Never would have noticed this. Took all the bins out of the freezer to give it a good cleaning and noticed the torn piece hanging. Our refrigerator runs much less often. Expect to see a difference in our electric bill!

The part labeled as water tank was not pictured on web site, and when it arrived it was a large coil of plastic tubing wire-tied in an oval shape,not a blown p/e tank as original.The oval of tubing would not fit into the door compartment, because of the bulk of the actuating solenoid. No instructions were included. It was necessary to hacksaw the steel solenoid mounting bracket off the solenoid, then contort the solenoid into the compartment to get all parts inside the cover. new connectors had to be purchased, because the the tank/tubing coil was 1/4" od, while the original tank had 5/16"od connections.

the lights melted the lamp case and cover. I determined it was the switch ,but there was 2 of them . I replaced both . I used a screw driver to pry the covers off the switches which are on the top of the unit .Then I press the tabs on the switch and pulled it out. Slip the wire connect off. slip the wire connect on new switch press it in till the tabs snap in ,put covers back on. the lamp base and cover had two screws holding them, pull the screws slip the old melted base and cover. snap the new base and cover in and put the screws in done!

The repair was easy peasy! Just fit it all in. Shopping here was just as easy. I'd delayed doing it for so long because I thought it'd be laborious but I found my appliance fast and the parts I needed quickly. The diagram you provided with part numbers helped a lot. Thanks for making it easy.

Tape off the light button so door alarm does not go off. Take off the clear light shield and remove the light bulbs. Be careful, bulbs may still be HOT!! With Phillips head screw driver unscrew the light plate assy. Drop it down in a comfortable position. Disconnect the connector, unscrew the thermal sensor and remove light assy. Install new light assy into light plate assy. There is no thermal senor in the new assy. Snap light plate assy back into place and install the two screws previously taken out. Install bulbs and clear cover. Remove tape from light door switches and you are done. Lights should go on and off when door buttons are pushed in and out.

replaced melted light covers, replaced switches, and found another problem with power circuit board relay, on order now!!

I removed the old lamp cover and case. Discovered that the last repair person had not re installed it correctly so the case had melted from the bulbs. I Removed the screws that was supposed to hold it up, assembled the case and cover, inserted the screws and anchored them in where they belong. Problem solved!