25344733108 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

Removed evaporator cover, unplug 2 wires to thermostat, unclipped it from the coil. Installed new themostat back the same way.

Remove access cover at bottom of case w/socket wrench (4 screws).
Attach supply line to water valve with adjustable wrench. Attach water line to ice maker on back of case (twist lock) no tools required.
Attach water line from ice maker to water valve (push connection) no tools required. Attache water valve to case at bottom w/one screw. (nut driver)
Reassemble access cover to bottom of case w/socket wrench (4 screws). Remove plastic cover inside freezer (w/screw driver to release from evap cover) to expose ice maker harness connection. Remove two plastic plugs (carefully w screw driver) exposing screw anchors for mounting Ice maker. Assemble two mounting screws w/nut driver. (Do not dtrive all the way in) Plug ice maker harness to plug on back of evap cover.(no tools required) Place cover over harness connection) no tools required. Guide water fill tube into fill cup on ice maker. (no tools required) Hang ice maker on mounting screws. Level Ice maker and tighten screws. (torpedo level makes it easy if you have one handy. Place Ice bucket under Ice maker on freezer shelf (lower position). Turn ice maker on and you are ready to go. Easy Job!!!!

I removed the shelves, unscrewed the cover panel of the fan motor and regulator dial, disconnected the fan motor from power, unscrewed 2 screws holding the motor to the mounting bracket and put the new motor in it's place. New motor had no thread in the mounting holes, so I put new tread in so I could use the 2 screws. Another option would have been to drill all the way through the mounting holes and use longer screws or bolts. Of course I turned the power off before I started repairs. Freezer runs like new now. Technicians wanted $400 for the job, while it cost me a mere $55 for the Motor.

insatlled ic maker was very eays and fast.how ever not enouh clamps for hose;s in kit in my apinion

I unplugged the fridge and unscrewed the back cover,unscrewwd the two screws holding the water valve in place and the water line to the ice maker and the electrical connection and install the new water valve,then buttoned everything back up and plugged the fridge back in and it is working great,making ice as normal.

I first replaced the defrost timer about a week prior and it did not correct the problem. I then ordered the thermostat from partselect and within 15 minutes had the part installed. My refridgerator has been running correctly for a couple weeks.

Turn off ice maker
Slide wire harness shield off connector
Disconnected harness
Loosened 2 wall screws
Remove old ice maker
Installed new one reversing process

I found a couple of videos online of a similar product fix to get a lay of the land. When I got the part, I unplugged the unit and turned off the water. It was easy to take off the back panel and remove the old water intake valve to swap it out for the new one. Once I attached everything again I could see that the valve was taking up water but it didnt seem to be going all the way to the icemaker. I gave it some time and by the next day, there was fresh ice!

It was real easy but I still have problem making ice cubs
Fell problem is in the ice maker went it dose make cubs they don,t dump

Turn off power. Remove ice tray. Back out the two screws with nut driver and just lift ice maker off screws. Do not bend the water fill tube in the back . Now unplug the wire and remove ice maker .
To replace, match the color of wires on plug. Adjust wires in place and water fill tube and back on to the screws. Hold in place and snug screws. Turn power back on. In 4 to 5 hours your ice will start .
FED-EX UT to MN was 13 days to deliver .

But I have back ground mechanical skills, I did see the video one time, and everything went smooth......

Looked it up on how to, follow the video
. Very easy 1-2-3 it was out and new one in..........??.

After pulling the fridge away from the wall and opening the paper backing on the bottom, I could see the motor. It's affixed to 3 metal ribs by 3 small screw/nuts. There is also a 12" wiring harness that led to a simple disconnect. Removing the disconnect and the 3 nuts was easy. However, there was no room to remove the motor with the fan attached. Between frame parts, the drip pan below, the ribs, and small, delicate copper tubing that can't get bent, it wouldn't fit thru any openings. So we rotated the motor inside the framework until the blade faced out, then reached in with a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the washer. Removing the washer is easy, it's just difficult to reach. With the washer off the fan was out of the way and very carefully (it was tight) the motor came out. Reverse was the same issue. Motor tight going in, not a lot of room to maneuver fan onto motor, and needed needle nose to tighten washer again. Make sure you tighten the washer before you install the motor on the prongs. Otherwise you need to remove it from the ribs, twist it to face you, then reinstall it on the prongs. Also, I felt I was stripping the nuts into the new motor. Turns out the holes in the motor aren't tapped. i realized the nuts are self tapping once I looked at them. I'm a big time DIYer and this wasn't bad at all. If your motor/fan assembly comes out whole, it's even easier.

Removed shelves ,removed panel on interior back wall with Philips screwdriver ,unplugged wire terminals slid thermostat off coil ,then reversed process to complete installation.

Removed existing part, tested it, found it to be defective. OrderEd a new one and replaced the existing one.