1985818150 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

I replaced the igniter in both the oven and the broiler. This was my first time ever working on a range.
I removed the oven door for easy access. To replace the oven igniter, I took the bottom floor out of the oven. The igniter is readily visible at the rear of the burner. I removed the two screws holding the igniter with a socket wrench. The screws were somewhat stubborn but yielded rather quickly. I gently pulled the two wires attached to the igniter from the back of the oven until the connector was exposed. I disconnected the old igniter and connected the new one. Then I simply reversed the the procedure, tucking the connector and wire back through the hole it came from and re - installed the two screws in the bracket. The insulation provided with the kit was used to plug the hole in the back of the oven.

To replace the broiler igniter, I essentially followed the same procedure. However, I chose not to remove the broiler baffle. This made it more difficult to both remove and re-install the two screws holding the ignitor. Otherwise, everything else went smoothly. If I had to do it again, I'd remove the baffle.

Removed two nuts and one screw to replace old igniter with new one. Replaced the nuts and screw. Turned on the oven, and it is working fine.

Pulled oven out from wall. Unplugged. Pulled out bottom drawer. Removed oven door by pulling up on angle. Removed bottom of oven. Removed old ignitor by taking out screws. Disconnected red and white wiring plastic coupler. Fed new wiring and connected. Mounted ignitor. Plugged back in. Very easy and worked!

took oven tray out and loosened igniter and replace same works great.

I first shut off the cold and hot water hoses so that no water would run while replacing the part. After that I made sure to unplug the washer .Then I removed the plate that was holding the water inlet valve with a 1/2 " nut driver ,I think there were four bolts .Then I removed two more bolts from the center of the plate that were holding the water inlet valve.I then disconnected one 1/4 " screw or I should say loosened one which held the main water hose going into the washer which then released the part ,except from four wires. I then took one wire off at a time and attached to the new part one at a time.Finally, I was finished and reconnected everything .It worked perfected !I'am very happy and pleased . This washer is over 25 years old and still runs .

Change the position of electrical connection on inlet valve before installation to match positions of old valve. Shut off electricy and water to washer. Disconnected water hoses, and power wires to old valve. Removed old valve and installed new valve exactly as installed on old valve. Washer operated perfectively

I removed the flame baffle , removed the two screws that held the ignitor. Then I pulled the wires thru the back wall and disconnected . I had to cut the the connector and install with wire nuts because connector was different. Works fine now .

removed oven floor, removed two screws in element . pulled out element wires, secured them so they would not fall back into slot, snaped in new element . scewed it in place , replaced floor . thanks partselect.com

Same as the other entries in this section.
The only thing I would add is a hint for removing the broiler igniter. As you can see from the oven igniter, the wires connect with a plug. For the top igniter, the broiler, the plug goes through the insulation and then through a hole in the rear panel of the oven. So, when you pull on it, you will think it is stuck or the wire is pulled taut. That is because the plug hangs up on the rear panel.
Stick your finger through the square hole that you can see inside the oven, and follow the wire through the insulation. You will feel the small round hole in the back. You have to wiggle the wire up and around a bit to get the plug to fit through the hole. Then you will have the slack you need to change the plugs.
That way, you don't have to pull the whole oven out and break all the caulking seals.

it was so easy my wife could do it!!!!!!!!

Removed bottom plate from oven enclosure.
Removed the two screw holding the burner in place. Disconnected plug to element, making sure wire did not fall back into underside of oven.
Removed heating element. Replaced element & reinserted burner assembly into oven. Checked oven operation before reinstalling bottom plate. Oven ignition was less than 15 seconds with over one inch flame from burner.

Removed old valve and replaced with new. Wire for wire..screw for screw..

I checked the inlet hoses for hard water build up and noted that this was not a problem. Then checked the hose from the inlet valve to the washer drum and determined that it was clear so I knew the problem was a faulty inlet valve. After receiving my replacement valve, I removed the old valve by removing the hot and cold water hoses and unscrewing two screws securing the inlet valve and lifting the inlet valve out the metal holding bracket. This gave me complete access to the inlet valve allowing me to remove the hose clamp and hose to the washing machine drum. The new inlet valve was an exact match so I removed the four electrical wires one by one while putting them back on the new inlet valve to insure correct electrical connections. I added a piece of one half inch plastic tubing provided with the new inlet valve on the outlet nipple of the new inlet valve to prevent leaking. I then put the new inlet valve back into the holding bracket and screwed it down. I replaced the hot and cold hoses to the new inlet valve carefully so as not to cross thread the plastic connection on the new inlet valve. After turning the water back on, I checked for leaks and plugged the washing machine back on to test it with a washing cycle.

1. Unplugged power cord and remove bottom oven tray.
2. Disengaged plastic connector from the back of the diverter valve.
3.Unscrewed two screws, holding present igniter.
4.Cut two wires, coming from the old igniter, with wire cutter (pliers).
5. Discarded old igniter assembly (in two parts -igniter and connector).
6. Attached connector part of new igniter to straightened coat hanger with insulation tape.
7. Fed the coat hanger from inside toward range back side by slightly displacing present oven insulation.
8. Removed coat hanger when got through.
9. Re-fastened new igniter with old screws.
10. Re-plugged plastic connector into diverter valve.
11. Re-plugged power cord and replace bottom tray.

Tested performance and am totally satisfied with the component and seller's service. There was no need for the extra materials in the kit.

I slide range away from wall, unplugged the electric. Lifted door off the hinges for easy access. The broiler drawer also comes right out. Removed racks and then took out bottom panel. The ignitor is mounted with two hex nut screws. They came out with a phillips head screwdriver. The plug connector is accessable from the rear or the range, there was nothing else to take off. I simply unplugged the connection, pulled the wire through the insulation, screwed on the new ignitor and pushed the plug and wire back through the insulation and plugged it in. The job took less than 25 minutes and that time included cleaning behind, under and inside the range! Oven lit first time it was turned on and works as good as new.