10642102300 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

First let me say that the instructional video on your website for this repair was very informative. My son and I watched that before we began the repair. We unplugged the unit first. After removing the back cover, he unplugged the old fan's electrical connection, and then proceeded to remove the fan and bracket from the unit. We then removed the old fan from the bracket, installed the new one and then he reinstalled the new fan and bracket back into the unit. He used the included electric adaptor cable to complete the electrical connection, plugged in the refrigerator briefly to confirm all was well (it was), then replaced the back cover and we were done.

stopped the fan and noise stopped ordered fan motor and fan with interface cable. Using 1/4 inch nut driver to remove screws from motor bracket installed new motor and runs like new.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

I was anticipating that the fan would be facing the back of the refrigerator. It actually was perpendicular to the back. There was some difficulty removing the bolts of the fan. I persevered and was victorious.

Disassembled the inside back cover and the motor was in a easy location to unbolt and bolt in the new motor. The fan blade is just pressed in place, so you will need a slight pry to remove it.

Unplugged the fridge first then took the bottom panel off with a 1/4 inch nut driver. Disconnected the wiring & used my ratchet to reach the 3 screws that held the motor. Took me longer to clean the bottom of the fridge then the installation.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

I attached the hinge and secured it with screws and socket wrench.

The bar slipped right into a groove on each side and took less than 5 seconds.

Like you video

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

I suggest following video supplied with order confirmation perfect fit

Took lower back cover off. Looked and observed for a few minutes to identify parts and removal. Five minutes later the job was complete. Older stainless steel unit now runs like new. Saved a lot of money... DIY

I just replaced my defrost thermostat after using the place-in-ice-water method, and I think it may not have been necessary. My timeline: my fridge was not getting cold enough. I realized it the day before going on a trip. I vacuumed the (very dusty) coils at the bottom, and the next morning the fridge seemed colder, but I thought I should order parts just in case. I ordered a heater and a thermostat. The fridge seemed to be operating normally when I returned from my trip, but I had the parts, so I thought I'd go ahead and dismantle the freezer and test the existing parts. My intention was to return both parts if the old ones passed the tests. I opened up the back of the freezer and there was no ice on the fins. I thought, great, the existing heater works! I cut out the thermostat, placed it in ice water, and didn't get continuity. So I decided to go ahead and put in the new thermostat. Because I'm not experienced with using a multimeter, I thought I'd test the new thermostat to see how the test should work. To my surprise, the new thermostat also failed the test! Stumped, I thought I might as well install the new thermostat, since I had opened the package and couldn't return it.
Further internet research suggests the place-in-ice-water method of testing is not adequate. One YouTube video by Parts Dr says to place the part in a working freezer. I froze my old thermostat and tested it; still no continuity. This thermostat may not be typical, though. The video discussed the temperature ratings on thermostats. The temperature rating on both (old and new) thermostats is L8.9-16.7C. That converts to 48-63 degrees fahrenheit, which obviously are not freezing temperatures. I'm not convinced I needed a new thermostat, but I trusted the videos I consulted earlier.
I cleaned the fridge thoroughly, so at least now I have a nice clean fridge to show for my efforts.