1985816153 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

Be very, very careful not to cross thread the filler hose, onto the nylon valve housing. Recommend some lubrication, and a pair of velvet gloves.

Had to take the back off to replace valve

installation was difficult because the "universal" valve was a different size than the original. The solenoids were taller on the replacement valve, could not use the mounting bracket because the unit could not fit in the confined space. I also don't know why the water outlet nipple had to be smaller on the new assembly, requiring the use of a Rube Goldberg piece of tubing.

Basically the instructional video video for replacing the valve was great, but pretty obvious. Unplugged the machine. Shut off the water and disconnected the hoses (if the shutoffs are old you might need a pipe wrench or large pliers to get them completely shut off). I kept an old towel on the floor to sop up drippage. Removed the screw that holds the plate, then the two that hold the valve, all with 1/4 inch socket driver. Remove wires, loosen hose clamp on inlet hose but make sure it won't fall down into the machine. The video showed how to rotate the contacts so that they were aimed the same as on my old valve - pry up on the frame with a screwdriver and rotate until it clicks into the other slot. Just reverse the procedure with the new valve - orange and white wires to top (hot) valve, blue and white to cold. 15-20 minutes if all goes well. Note, the plate and valve attachment screws may not all be the same length even though they look the same. My problems were due to the very old washing machine. The clamp for the inlet hose was an old type that could not be loosened and had to be torn apart, luckily I had a modern 1/2 inch clamp on hand to replace it with. I had to bend the plate a little to get the attachment screw hole to line up with the hole in the washer. Also the connecting hose washers were too old and had to be replaced. I would suggest replacing these in any case and using a large pliers to get them snugly tightened.

Same technique as the PartSelect video, except the result leaked to the outside at the outlet port because the two halves of the mold that made it were slightly misaligned, and there were two steps, one on each side of the fitting. Filed the steps away, and used Evinrude gasket sealant to make sure it wouldn't leak, and it didn't.

My husband did the repair. Since he owned a laundry quite a few years ago, he knew what he was doing. After hooking everything back up, the cold water was coming in hot. When hooking up the hoses, he had hooked the cold into the top intake. After watching the online video, he realized that the plate that was to be installed over the hoses, on the back of the washer, clearly stated "H" on top and "C" on the bottom. So we switched the position of the hoses and everything ran perfectly after that. I would suggest to ANYONE doing this repair, to watch the online video first, before starting, because it is very, very helpful.

pulled out wash/dry stacked combo unit from cubbyhole (this was the hardest part) . Shutoff both hose supplies, turn off power to unit.disconnect power cord @ coupling. Disconnect both hoses @ machine and drain into pan. Remove old valve assembly,take note of what wires go where and disconnect. Remove filler hose from valve. Install new unit in reverse order but using new hose washers and be carefull not to cross thread the plastic threads and only tighten as much as needed to keep from leaking. Have bought from these people before and they are SUPER. Had the correct part in LESS than 24 hrs. and for a reasonable price !! Sam

Just as the video described.... Unplugged the machine, turned off the water, both hot and cold. Unhooked the hoses (replaced them at this time since they were over 5 years old). Took out the top screw holding the frame piece and removed from machine. Took off the wires and the output hose. Removed the valve ass'y from the frame piece. Matched new to the original and reassembled in reverse order.

Maytag made this easy. The water value was mounted to a plate on the back of the washer removed one screw, pulled the plate from the washer, removed the valve, reconnected the electrical connections and outlet hose, re inserted the plate, attached with screw and tested. 30 minutes tops and I hwve never done this before. Thanks to partsselect and others for recomenning the correct repair. Others had suggestjng the timer device ($180 +) for the parts. OUCH !!!!!

First check that the screens are not plugged. There are fine screens in the mixing valve and at times you will find them in either end of the inlet hoses. Not a hard job if you can get to the back of the machine, just a few small screws, swap the wires to the new part and swap the outlet hose from the valve and screw it back together. Wife will think you are a wiz kid.

Removed hoses and inlet valve from washer, replaced inlet valve by attaching the electrical connectors, reattached new water lines, returned inlet valve to its place in rear of washer. Checked for leaks, washed a load of clothes, everything worked properly.

Disconnected the electric plug and removed the water hoses from the washer. Took off the old water inlet valve under a plate on the washer and hooked in the new one. As we dismantled each section of the valve hook-up we connected that area of the new valve to be sure we got it connected correctly.

Shut water off and unplugged. Used channel locks to remove hoses. Used nut driver to remove mounting plate. Disconnected electrical connections to solenoids. Broke one. Had to replace. Used nut driver to loosen fill hose. Rusty and broke. Cut hose. Used new clamp to secure fill hose to fill solenoids. Stripped and crimped on new connector and replaced electrical connections as they were removed. Reinstalled hoses and plugged in. Tested A-OK.

The most important part of my repair was watching the video that was sent to me with my order confirmation. After I viewed it, the rest was easy. The only hard part was moving the washer away from the wall!

I ordered the part. Watched the video and did the repair. I removed the cover plate on the washer, removing the screws. I then, removed the broken water inlet valve and replaced it with the new one. I placed the cover plate back onto the rear of the washer and "VOILE", it was done. I am a divorced mother of three, who has never attempted to do any type of home repairs, however, the way PartSelect has set up the website, it made it easy to determine what part I needed and provided me with a video which gave me step by step instructions on how to repair it. I even posted my victory on Facebook! Thanks PartSelect.