1068275910 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

I looked for the obvious sign of malfunction, a leak lack of air flow dirty coil finding nothing obvious I checked the electrical components and the first was the start relay with a bimetal temperature switch was the problem that was identifyed when removed due to the relay sounding like it was internally damaged because of severe rateling

Followed the Partselect instructions - removed door, removed old cam and replaced with new cam. One lesson learned. There are two cams - one that sits on hinge below door and one that is up inside bottom of door. If you are replacing one, replace them both.

I was careful to unplug each cord one at a time so that I can easily match them up to the new start relay. Once I got the cords plugged into the new start relay, I went ahead and plugged in the fridge and it worked like it never stopped working. I must admit, I'm still nervous about this fridge because I never had to do anything like this in my life so in the back of my mind, I'm always wondering if I did it correctly or not. I was giving a lesson on how to make sure that I have it on correctly but that didn't put me at ease..lol. Parts Select sent this part in less then a day and that made me appreciate there business even more. I was concerned that the part wouldn't get here until later on that week.

Had no problem at all it took about 5 minutes to get the tray off and about 5 minutes to put new tray on.New part fit perfect. Thanks Robert Lovern

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

With the help of the website I was able to verify that the part I removed (in the area of the clicking sound) was probably the part required for replacement. I ordered it, installed it... IT WORKS (I knew it the moment I plugged in the power cord and heard the compressor kick on). Saved me from buying a new fridge or calling a repairman. I'm a 58 year old woman with no appliance experience. I watched the videos and installed the part without any trouble. Thank you PartSelect for your easy to use website instructions and helpful hints.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

My fridge is a little different from the video model. The Controls in the fridge are located on an "arm" which swings down when the two screws are removed from the sides. It was not necessary to remove a front plate or knobs. However, I found when I got in to it that the old timer was not held by screws, but by plstic posts which had these "speed nuts" on them. This is a little metal plate which fits over the plastic post and bends to lock it in place. When you try to remove it, it acts like a barb, holding the little sucker on. I ended up bending the ends of those little suckers up tight against the post and twisting and pulling with needle-nose pliers. I broke one post like others before me commented, but one stayed intact. The only break at the top, so there ie still post left to hold the new timer. Once it was off, I was able to replace easily. The directions for choosing the right prong were a little confusing, but follow your gut and go with the wire colors. My schematic found in the bottom of the fridge did not look like any of the drawings, but I could match the wire colors. I also asked "Just Ask" for help, to make sure. My gut instinct was right. My fridge is now working again beautifully. If a housewife with no appliance repair knowledge can do it, so can you. I fixed my dryer with PartSelect too!I will never call another repair man until I have checked this site to see if I can do it myself. Bet I have saved $600 so far at least!

I did the repair just as your video showed me. It worked out great.

First of all the part was not located in the section of the refrigerator that was shown in the video. I wasted a lot of time taking that section apart only to find that the part wasn't there. After some investigation I finally located the defective part. It was behind a piece of sheet metal that had to be bent out of the way to unscrew the part. If I hadn't bent it out of the way, it would have been a major disassembly to remove the sheet metal. Once removed, the installation of the new part was fairly simple. The only confusing thing about the installation was determinig which of the prongs on the part that the internal wire to the new part was to be attached. There were 3 options given and the instructions were not very clear as to which one I should use. Apparently I guessed correctly because the refrigerator seems to be functioning perfectly since the repair.

One day the ice cream in the freezer seemed mushy, but the ice was still frozen. There was not water in the ice bin. However, the problem resolved itself. This suggested that the defrost timer had become stuck for an extended time, but then continued to run. The fact that the freezer went back to frozen, implies that all the components of the cooling loop (compressor, condenser & fan, evaporator & fan) were fine. It was possible that the problem was caused by a bad defrost (?evaporator?) thermostat but everything I saw on line suggested that the defrost timer is the culprit about 40 - 50% of the time. Anyway, I followed the instructions in the on-line video at this site for replacing the defrost timer and it was easy. It would have only taken 15 minutes, but I spent a while reading the defrost timer instructions and hunting down a schematic for my refrigerator, to determine which pin the loose wire should go on.

The defrost timer that I ordered form you did the trick. My fridge was
running all the time and the fridge temp was 55 but the freezer was 10
below. The instructions did not say how to test the old one to compare with
the new on. However in the Readers Digest Home Repair book it did and the
test proved that it was defective. Your article said that with the system I
had, 65% on the time it was the timer. I ordered it and thank you it works
just fine. I do have another problem, maybe you can help. The fridge runs
for 6 minuets and stays off for 10 minuets. The temp in the freezer is 0
and the fridge is 35-40 on the warmest settings, but all is well.
Thank you

Removed the screw from the old tray. Attached the new tray and return the screw using a wrench to assure the screw was torqued properly.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00