1985815211 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

Removed door. Removed bottom linerin stove that cover burner. Unplugged old ingnitor. unscrewed old ignitor. Removed old ignitor. Screwed in new ignitor. Plugged in new ignitor. Checked function. Put door back on and bottom liner back in. Took less than 15 minutes. One of the easiest repairs ever.

After unplugging the oven from the wall, I removed the grates and floor of the oven, and the thing that spreads the flame out. Needless to say, I'm no repairman! Next I simply unplugged and unscrewed the old element and screwed and plugged the new one in. Replaced the floor, grates, and flame thing in, and we were back in business! It was a very easy fix, and Partselect.com was a pleasure to research and do business with! I would certainly recommend this site to others.

This oven was purchased in 1992 . Hardest & time consuming issue was getting the old part out. First unplug unit from outlet. Take off oven door(very easy to do). Take out oven racks & lift out bottom of oven(also simple to do). Pull out storage drawer all the way out & put aside out of your way. Take off burner baffle. This is held on with 1 butterfiy screw. This igniter plugs in the same way a phone slips into the jack. Use a flash light if needed. Where you pulled the storage drawer out from all the way in the back pull out the connection holding the old ignition wires into the oven(this is the phone type part spoke of above). Go back into the oven & un screw the 2 screws that hold in the igniter to the bake burner pipe. Now you can carefully pull out the old igniter since you already unpluged it earlier. Slip connection wires from new igniter in the same hole old was pulled from in back of oven. Screw the 2 screws into the new igniter to hold it to the bake burner pipe. Go back down to the storage draw space & plug into bottem back. Replace storage drawer. Replace burner baffle. Replace bottem of oven making sure to seat it in correctly. Replace door . Remember to connect to electric again & you should be good to go. I would like to now say something about the excellent service received from parts select. They have an excellent user friendly site & I received my part the next day.

Remove door. Disconnect power supply from the range.Remove shelves.Remove burner and disconnect power from igniter.Remove bad igniter and replace with new one,reconnect igniter to power supply. Replace burner and all parts that were removed.Re- connect appliance to power source. Range is ready to be used.

I unpluged the electrical cord first. Then pulled the stove away from wall. Next removed oven racks, the bottom of the oven. Then removed the deflector plate over the burner. The next step I removed the broil pan. Now the oven area is empty. Nice and easy to remove the igniter with nut driver. Two screws and wire nut that are behind the stove wall. Now I just reversed the procedure. Very easy. The only thing I'm not sure where the insulation block go's. The wires go through back oven wall hole. There was no insulation there before? So I put a small piece just behind the igniter over the wire. Will this catch fire I don't know? If someone knows let me know. Other than that it works.

I unpluged the oven, removed the oven door by slideing it off the hinges, removed the racks, took the bottom pan out exposing the igniter,while attempting to remove the 2 screws holding the igniter to the bracket, I discovered that they where stripped so I had to use vise grips to remove them. I went to the hardware store bought replacements and installed the igniter. I then removed the protective cover over the wires, stripped them put on the wire nuts provided with the kit put the protective shield back pluged the unit in turned it on, checked it, then put it back together. The stripped screws were the only difficult part.

I removed the two screws that hold the element. This took most of the time because one of the screw broke. Then I unplug the power,took the igniter out and disconnect the wire and reverse the procedure.

removed cover over burner section ,removed power to burner section ,removed burner assembly, replaced ignitor assembly, wire in to control circuit ,replace burner section in oven,turnon power chech operation ,replace cover.

Hardest part was disconnecting the gas line and moving the range out of the counter. Removed oven door for easier access to the igniter from the front. And the clean up. Installing the igniter was relatively easy from the rear of the range. I was not able to install the igniter through the front of the range because the wires were not long enough to pull the igniter forward through the front so it was necessary to pull the range out from the counter and install it from the rear. Then it was just a matter of removing a small dust cover at the rear by removing one screw. Then removing old insulation and disconnecting wires. Remove 2 mounting screws that held the igniter in place. These screws had to be removed from the front. Pushed the old igniter out through the rear of the range. Connected the new igniter wires. Pushed the new igniter through the rear of range and replace the new insulation. Mounted the new igniter with 2 screws. Reassembled everything and it worked ok.

Removed oven door, pulled oven out to acess the rear of unit. Removed two screws inside the oven that connect the ignitor to the mounting bracket. Used flashlight to find plug that is connected to the ignitor located at the rear of the oven. I could see the plug in space provided in the oven rear cover plate. Did not have to remove anything to access the plug. Unplugged connector, tied string on connector and removed ignitor from inside the oven. Tied string line on new ignitor plug and pulled the new ignitor plug to the back of the oven by pulling on the string line. Connected plug and installed screws in the mounting bracket and turned on oven. It worked fine. The hardest thing to do was pull the oven from the wall and put it back. The wife had a good opportunity to clean the crap from the floor under the oven so it was good to move it out. Easy job and so far everything is ok. I am very satified with the part

Based on user comments it seemed like my problem was being caused by a faulty igniter. I didn't do any voltage or continuity checks like some of the other comments said, although that route was provide a definite yes or no regarding the cause. For instructions, just watch the video. They are dead on. The screws holding your igniter onto the burner assembly may be stripped so you might have to buy replacements or use spares. I replaced the factory sheet metal screws with 10-24 machine screws, nuts, and washers I had laying around the house. After reassmebly, I tested the oven and it lit right up and stayed burning until it reached temperature. My wife baked a test batch of cookies the next day and they were delicious.

Followed the excellent instructions on your web site. I removed the oven burner assembly to make it easier to install the new igniter. The connector on the new igniter matched the one in my oven exactly. It helps to have the oven light on!

Took the old igniter out by taken some screws from the top had to remove the bottom cover underneath then had to cut one of the wire on the igniter put the new one end put the screws back in plug in the oven back iand then check to see that the oven will get hot it did the repair went well.

Remove old igniter ,,again had to remove rear panel of unit to get to connecter..reverse procedure to install igniter. Video very helpful.

The oven in my Jenn-Air range started to leak gas whenever I turned it on and a visit from the local gas company indicated the ignitor had probably gone bad. I had assumed the older range wasn't worth repairing but didn't want to spend $800+ for something in otherwise excellent condition. Internet research yielded lots of tutorials on how to make the swap and I decided to see if I could get the old part out before going any further. It wasn't too tricky except one of the two screws holding the ignitor in place had stripped and it was in a location that was very difficult to reach. I used a part of tin snips to cut around it. The new part ordered here came very quickly and exactly matched what I had removed; the wiring harness fit perfectly. It was a snap to put back in and now the oven works perfectly. All for under $50.