1985818100 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

I watched a sample repair on YouTube and read the instructions that came with the part. All went as planned/described.

Took out 2 5/16" screws and loosened top and took off two ground wires and 2 hot wires for cold & hot water solenoids and removed & replaced solenoid wires and fill hose. Also Had fantastic delivery of parts.

Disconnected the hot/cold water hoses. Removed screw that holds water valve in place. Removed two screws that hold valve to metal plate. Disconnected wire terminals from old valve and installed on new valve on the same spades. Disconnected water discharge line by loosing screw that hold line on valve, reattach to new valve. Removed old valve from plate, installed new one with the two screws to plate, then put in place and put in screw that hold valve in back of washer. Connected hot/cold hoses and fired it up and noisy water eliminated. About 30 minutes and back in service which made the wife happy that her washer was quite again. Thanks!

Removed the front of the washing machine. Located & removed the water inlet valve from it's mounting on the back
inside face of machine. Replaced water valve, & restarted machine. Like new again!

Can't say enough about the speed of parts delivery & professionalism and accuracy recieved from the team at Parts Select. Thanx again,

Greg W.

Shut off water supply, unplugged washer power, removed supply hoses from old washer valve assembly, removed valve mounting plate and removed old valve assembly from mounting plate, diagrammed and disconnected hot and cold solenoid valve wiring and removed valve assembly outlet hose. Installed and connected new valve, performing the preceding steps in reverse order. pressurized new valve, verified valve function and checked for leaks and placed washer back in service.

Diagnosed the problem and ordered the part online in about 15 minutes. Part arrived about 3 days later. I followed the directions that came with the part and VOILA! washing amchine fixed. I unplugged the washing machine. I unscrewed the the screws at the back of the machine. Pulled out the faulty part and disconnected the electrical wires. Connected the electrical wires to the new part, and screwed it back in. In less than 30 minutes, I was done.

First, I opened up the back of the machine to see the way the water got into the tub. I turned off the water at the pipes, unplugged the machine, and disconnected the hoses from back. There were no leaks with the hoses, so I looked at the part that managed the water flow when operating and went on line to find the part.
I found it and then ordered it from partselect.com. I got it two days later. I looked at how the other part was connected to the hoses and reused a clamp. I recommend getting a new hose clamp to make fitting it faster. I felt great after I got it to work, so that we didn't have to buy a new washer (the part was only $26). I think that Repair should be added to Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle.

Unplug washing machine.
Disconnect water supply hoses.
Remove valve service panel, 1 screw.
Remove valve from panel with wires attached. 2 screws.
Remove water outlet hose from old valve.
Mount new valve to panel. 2 screws.
Attach water outlet to valve.
Move wires from old valve to new valve.
Dress wires.
Reinstall valve service panel, 1 screw.
Install new wire braded supply hoses.
Done. Hope to get another 20 years of service.

unplugged electricity from socket, turned water feed off at spigots, put plastic basin to catch water under place where hoses connect to washer, used pliers to turn disconnect hoses from washer and let them drain into basin. unfastened top screw on panel (only one) and tipped the old water inlet valve connections out over basin -- still spilled water onto floor, though. unfastened two screws holding old valve assembly to panel, set panel aside. loosened clamp screw on hose, moved hose off old valve -- a little water spilled out. held new assembly in similar position as moved wires one by one. used dry cloth to make sure electrical connections dry, then put hose back on, tightened clamp screw, fastened assembly to panel, fastened panel to washer, fastened hoses to valve, waited a half hour hoping any water on wires had dried, turned on water, washed clothes -- success!

Made sure I had the right part. Inlet Valve looked just like the one on the website. Unpluged washer. Removed screws and water hoses. Disconnected wires from old Inlet valve and reconnected to new Valve. Disconnected water line from Inlet valve to washer tub. Reconnected water lines. Ran a test cycle. Works great. Wife very happy. Therefore, so am I.

I removed the front of the washer then lifted the top up and swiveled it to the right. The solenoid is located in the back left. I remove the solenoid retaining screws from the the back of the washer, pulled the wires form the connectors on the top and bottom solenoids (hot and cold) and removed the defective valve. The new unit fit exactly! the total time to replace the solenoid valve was 25 minutes.

Removed door panel to get to the electric control conponents and noticed a burned wire to one of the door microswitches. Ordered the door switch repair kit from PartSelect. Also, ordered and replaced the thermal fuse at the same time since it was only $12 and didn't know if that blew at the same time the switch cooked. I had the parts coming standard delivery (3-5 days), but they arrived the very next day. Parts included easy to follow directions.Job went pretty smooth and the dishwasher works again Good experience!

open top of washer
remove two screws that hold water inlet valve
disconnect four wires and hose;replace new water inlet valve and reversed operation
everything went well

Washer is enclosed in a walled partition. I spent more time moving the washer out so I could get to the back of the machine. Due to Maytag's design of a removal sheet metal panel holding the valve the entire water valve replacement was performed outside of the machine. The replacement valve was an exact duplicate and made it a simple swap out. More time was spent removing inlet hoses and outlet hose then in actual valve replacement.

Pushed machine out from wall; disconnected the supply hoses (after closing the valves at the wall); unplugged electrical cord; removed two wires from the solenoid connectors; removed two screws that secure valve assembly to backplane of machine. Installation of new assembly was the opposite procedure. We have private well, and silt was plugging the cold water side of valve. So, I also installed a large sediment filter behind the washer, so this will never happen again.