25392139780 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

The timer in this older unit is clearly exposed at the back of the freezer underneath the freezer compartment. It is attached with two Phillips head screws. After the screws are removed, the timer can be unplugged and the new one plugged in. The new timer has an extra flange to allow it to be used on more than one model of freezer. In order to mount the timer in this unit, you have to remove the extra flange by carefully cutting it away from the timer body, in similar fashion to what's depicted in the online video. This will allow you to mount the new timer to the mounting plate using the two screws from the old timer.

Removed the freezer door which had an electrical cord routed through the lower hinge with a disconnect under the freezer. Job works better with two people. Working the gasket into place was a little tricky at the corners. The putty knife was helpful. Make sure door is not warped when replaced on freezer. If warped slightly the door can be twisted to make gasket fit evenly bottom to top on front edge. Hope this helps DIY folks.

First unplug freezer, then disconnected wires from timer.
Removed 2 screws from bracket holding time to freezer.
Attached New part with screws. .The mounting bracket is now part of New time. Reattach wires.
I let coils defrost and then plugged it.

Removed the basket. Removed the two broken brackets (6 screws). Installed the two new brackets. Put the basket on the track. Done.

Refrigerator started frosting up and running all the time.I'd defrost it and it would frost up again in about a week.The timer seems to be work so I just guest it mite be the Defrost Thermostat.I removed the duck in the center and back panel in the freezer compartment defrosted it and switched Thermostats and replaced panel and duck, going to lower compartment of the refrigerator.So far it seems to be working a little more time while tell.

Notice ice build up on the panel in front of the evaporator coil. Unplugged freezer and removed evaporator panel. Plugged unit back in and checked fan, coil "snap switch" and heater element, all seemed to check out good. Found defrost timer stuck in the freeze position, causing frost to accumulate over the evaporator. Manually rotated defrost timer to the 30min defrost cycle and system went into defrost. Ordered defrost timer and installed (part arrived in 3 days). Freezer works great again. Too bad I ended up throwing 400 dollars worth of meat away. the fix was very simple. Will definitely use PartSelect again. Thank you.

This was an easy job. First remove the ice maker, if you have one. Mine was mounted with just two screws. Loosen these screws, unplug the power cord at the connector and then lift the ice maker off. Remove the light bulb cover and the light bulb, just so you dont break it. Remove two hex screws and the back cover can be removed. My fan was mounted in the middle of a bracket retained between two rubber bushingings. Just push the fan blad of the shaft and pull the motoer out. Dissonect the power cord at the connector. My moter was differant than the replacement on the mounting so with the removial of the two screws on the motor I was able to exchange the upper and lower cast motoer housings. Reverse the assembly process and you good. Mine is running great.

After reading reviews I was not sure but I ordered part on Wensday in the AM and I had the correct part Thursday evening this company rocks thank you by the way i paid for regular shipping I will order again in a heartbeat

1. Unplug the refrigerator.2. Remove the storage rack and back panel in the freezer. 3. Locate the thermostat. 4. Defrost the freezer coils , i used a hair dryer. 5. Remove the thermostat from the cooling coil and then clip the connecting wires close to the unit. 6. Strip the ends of these wires and connect these wires to the wires of the replacement unit using the supplied wire connectors. 6. Heat seal with a lighter the connections using the water shield sleeves provided and further wrap connections with electrical tape. 7. Reconnect the thermostat to the cooling coil at the location it was removed from. 8. Replace the freezer back panel removed earlierand the storage rack if you have one. 9. Plug the freezer back in. My refrigerator has been working ever since the repair. There are several YouTube videos available that walk you through the diagnoses and repair process. They are very good.

Upluged power pulled freezer out from wall removed the two screws that holds the defrost timer unpluged defrost timer pluged new timer in mounted new timer back with the two screws pluged freezer back in and job was complete. Freezer working fine.

Removed three screws each side to remove old slides. Needed spacers under new slide so that drawer would stay on track. Cut old slide to make spacers and installed both slides in 15 mins.

there were three possible problems the timer, the thermostat, or the heating element.i replaced the timer first as that is the problem 65% of the time and that did not fix the problem, i replaced the thermostat and that did fix the problem. after watching the video on line from parts select i took the back off of the freezer from the inside, defrosted the coils with a hair blower and then swapped out the thermostat which pops right off and i spliced the old connectors to the new thermostat. the heat shrink tubing that came with the part was a little to big so i put a smaller peice on each side for water proofing. that is what the cigarette lighter is for to supply heat to the heat shrink tubing.now that i have fixed that problem i may tackle the ice maker next

After reading other posts, I decided to change the defrost thermostat, so I watched the videos, and did that. It got better, but the problem persisted, and the ice was still building up in the freezer section. So I decided that the problem was with the defrost heater. I ordered a new one, that was here under 24hs (using the Fedex ground). I replaced it, measured the old one and saw that it was not passing any current at all (so it was really burnt). Now the fridge is good as new, maintaining the proper temperatures both at Freezer and Fridge sections. Thank you Parts Select ! With $ 70 in parts I was able to get back my appliance working !!!

Unplug the refrigerator unit from wall. I removed freezer rack, plastic light cover, the ice rack shelf on the right side, then removed the plastic back cover panel, (4) retaining screws, gently tilting the panel toward me, unplug the wiring harness by depressing the clips on the side of the plug, removed panel from unit, set aside. If the unit was froze up, so I defrosted the cooling coils carefully with a common hair dryer until it was thawed. Be careful not to touch or bend the coils , since they are very fragile and SHARP! I located the old thermostat unit attached to a straight length of coolant line. The new unit looked like the old one, so it was easy to locate. I cut the two wires of the old unit close to the round base to make sure I would have enough wire to reconnect. Since my new unit did not indicate a polarity(Neg or Pos), I just wired each wire I cut to one of the new unit. I used the shrink tubing provided and heated the shrink till it was fully melted. I double ck'd to see if the wires were basically waterproof and a good connect. Also, before I replaced the rear panel, I made sure that both wires I had spliced had a drip loop to it so water would not drip down into the newly spliced union. Also made sure the wires will not interfere with the colling fan on the back of the rear panel. Reverse the procedure in reassembling. Plug in unit, and wait and listen for the unit coming back on..I kept a regular thermometer in the upper and lower compartments. Allow 24 hrs. for the unit to return to normal operation. It may defrost several times till the whole operation is back in sync.

The sliding shelf side rail is held by three philips head screws that tighten into nut inserts. No amount of tightening would keep two of the three screws tight. I found that the nut inserts which are plastic and insert into the side of the freezer would pull loose, probably from years of overloading the sliding shelf basket. Ordered two nut inserts from PartSelect. 1. Remove three screws to remove shelf slide side rail. 2. Remove nut inserts to be replaced with needle nose pliers or reinsert screw a couple of turns and pull nut insert out with pliers. 3. Insert new nut inserts, position side rail, and tighten screws. Replace sliding shelf/basket.