1985815210 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

Came to this website to look for possible cause. The major fault for my problem was the igniter @ 61% of the time. So, I ordered this part @ about $55. Opened the range floor, removed two nut screws and old igniter, by unpluging. Plugged in new part reattached screws and tested before putting it back together. Worked fine, without snags. However I did pull up and remove oven door for complete access to oven.

Rick,
Detroit, MI.

i removed old part, then installed new one. easy

Replaced the ceramic glow ignitor by removeing the two screws holding it to the mounting bracket. Gas and electric were tturned off. Unplugged the ignitor from rear of oven. Installed new switch in the same way and if worked perfect. Part was ordered online for $48. I saved one hundred dollars by doing it myself. My outdoor grill was harder than this.

I was worried over the fact that my oven was filling up with propane but taking a long time to light. One day it didn't light for over ten minutes. I shut it off and put the still frozen pizza back in the freezer. That's it, I thought. I'm not going to use the oven again until it's fixed.

I looked online and ordered the part. It came within two days time,even though it was a weekend during the holiday season. My husband spent about 15 minutes with his head in the oven and then said it was fixed.

I baked several batches of Christmas cookies and three coffee cakes the next day.

I unpluged the electrical cord first. Then pulled the stove away from wall. Next removed oven racks, the bottom of the oven. Then removed the deflector plate over the burner. The next step I removed the broil pan. Now the oven area is empty. Nice and easy to remove the igniter with nut driver. Two screws and wire nut that are behind the stove wall. Now I just reversed the procedure. Very easy. The only thing I'm not sure where the insulation block go's. The wires go through back oven wall hole. There was no insulation there before? So I put a small piece just behind the igniter over the wire. Will this catch fire I don't know? If someone knows let me know. Other than that it works.

I unpluged the oven, removed the oven door by slideing it off the hinges, removed the racks, took the bottom pan out exposing the igniter,while attempting to remove the 2 screws holding the igniter to the bracket, I discovered that they where stripped so I had to use vise grips to remove them. I went to the hardware store bought replacements and installed the igniter. I then removed the protective cover over the wires, stripped them put on the wire nuts provided with the kit put the protective shield back pluged the unit in turned it on, checked it, then put it back together. The stripped screws were the only difficult part.

I removed the two screws that hold the element. This took most of the time because one of the screw broke. Then I unplug the power,took the igniter out and disconnect the wire and reverse the procedure.

Hardest part was disconnecting the gas line and moving the range out of the counter. Removed oven door for easier access to the igniter from the front. And the clean up. Installing the igniter was relatively easy from the rear of the range. I was not able to install the igniter through the front of the range because the wires were not long enough to pull the igniter forward through the front so it was necessary to pull the range out from the counter and install it from the rear. Then it was just a matter of removing a small dust cover at the rear by removing one screw. Then removing old insulation and disconnecting wires. Remove 2 mounting screws that held the igniter in place. These screws had to be removed from the front. Pushed the old igniter out through the rear of the range. Connected the new igniter wires. Pushed the new igniter through the rear of range and replace the new insulation. Mounted the new igniter with 2 screws. Reassembled everything and it worked ok.

removed cover over burner section ,removed power to burner section ,removed burner assembly, replaced ignitor assembly, wire in to control circuit ,replace burner section in oven,turnon power chech operation ,replace cover.

Once I noticed the oven failed to light, I checked the igniter and saw it was glowing. At that point I did some research and found that the igniter could still be bad even though it glowed. This was the most common cause of ovens not lighting. A bad igniter will not glow as bright as a new one. An igniter had to draw a minimum of 2.8 amps in order for the safety valve to open and supply gas to the burner. After checking the safety valve with an ohmmeter, I found it to be good, so I ordered a new igniter. Once I received the new part , it took about 20 minutes to install.

Make sure power to the oven is disconnected. Remove all shelves. Partially open the bottom door and yank it out so it is out of your way. The igniter is next to the back and upper wall of the oven inside the lower (broiler) compartment. The igniter is held by two screws which I opened using a 5/16 or 8mm nut driver. After removing the two screws, remove the back plate using a regular phillips screwdriver. Next, pull out the two igniter wires until the connector comes out. Pressing the side tabs disconnect the igniter from the connector. Connect the new igniter. If nesessary, replenish some of the insulation with new insulation that arrived with the new igniter. Push excessive igniter wiring back, remount the backplate using the phillips screwdriver. Remount the new igniter using the nutdriver. Remount the bottom door. Put all shelves back. You are done.

Replaced stripped screws with 632 by 3/8 bolts and nuts. Your video helped with the rest of the installation.

The oven in my Jenn-Air range started to leak gas whenever I turned it on and a visit from the local gas company indicated the ignitor had probably gone bad. I had assumed the older range wasn't worth repairing but didn't want to spend $800+ for something in otherwise excellent condition. Internet research yielded lots of tutorials on how to make the swap and I decided to see if I could get the old part out before going any further. It wasn't too tricky except one of the two screws holding the ignitor in place had stripped and it was in a location that was very difficult to reach. I used a part of tin snips to cut around it. The new part ordered here came very quickly and exactly matched what I had removed; the wiring harness fit perfectly. It was a snap to put back in and now the oven works perfectly. All for under $50.

Remove oven door and bottom panel. Remove metal shield above the burner. Unscrew old igniter from brace. All this was straightforward. Then I found the old (long) igniter did not have a convenient plug that I could pull through the hole in the back of the oven. So I had to clip the two wires to remove the old igniter and stripped the insulation of these wires. Then I clipped the two wires of the new igniter since, unfortunately, I could not use the convenient plastic connector. I stripped the wires of the new igniter and connected both to the previously stripped wires coming through the hole from the back of the oven. I twisted on the ceramic wire nuts provided. It took 10-15 minutes or so to be confident these wire nuts wouldn't just fall off on their own. Then I stuffed the wire nut connections back through the hole, stuffed in all the insulation provided (necessary for the new (short) igniter!) and screwed the new igniter to the old brace. (I didn't need the new brace supplied or two long wires supplied.) Total time was about 70 minutes. The oven works well! This experience is much better than finding a repairman, scheduling the visit, etc.

Ordered oven Igniter kit PS1573892 which cost $73.00. Received the kit with instructions easy to follow to install. I was surprised how easy it was to repair, with the help of my wife we did the job in about 2 hours, the oven now works great. I really saved a bundle of money doing this myself, a local repair service wanted $114.00 for the same part and $200.00 labor to install and this is the gospel truth. I am 96 years old. RMA Bluefield, WV