GFU17F5AW5 Gibson Freezer - Instructions

I first noticed my ice cream getting soft. Then 2 days later the alarm went. I emptied the freezer, opened the panels and saw no frost. I saw that 99% of issues were resolved with a defrost timer and thermostat so I ordered those. I have to say the parts came quickly and they went in very easy. My freezer seems to be in the 1% category though. It's still not cooling even though I can measure the temperature at the front of the evaporator coil is cold but by the end of the coil it's almost room temperature. I think a repairman is called for.

I unscrewed the screws that held the old fan on, disconnected the wiring harness and removed the old fan. I pulled the blades off the motor and put it on the new fan. One thing of note, the screw holes on the new fan weren't threaded. I assume this is by design, so I used the screws to thread the holes before installing it in the freezer. Once I did this, the rest of the installation was easy, just screw it back in and connect the wiring harness.

Not sure if it was the Controller or the run capacitor that went bad and took out the controller, so, purchased both an replaced both. Snapped of the wire retainer,unpluged the controller, used pliers and small screw driver to disconnect the controller, plugged wires into the new controller, plug the run capacitor into it ahd reinstalled, so far running great.

Replaced freezer defrost thermostat. Unit worked perfectly.

When i found out there was no thread in brace where bolts were supposed to screw in, I panicked. I thought I would have to send part back or go to a machine shop to make a thread. I called a friend for help and he told me the bolts would make the thread if I just screwed them in. Sure enough, the bolts made the thread and then I just proceeded to instal motor and put refrigerator back together. It was simple.

Plugged in the new parts. No tools were required. Sears wanted to charge me $300 for the repair!

Followed the sites instructions. Empty the bottom part of the freezer. Remove the screws. Move the panel out of the way. Easily remove the old part and replace with the new. Put the panel and screws back in place. The freezer works.

Unplugged freezer from electrical socket. Removed lower trays from freezer. Removed sound proof stripping from sides of back panel. Removed upper, lower and side screws from back, lower panel using No. 2 phillips screwdriver. Disconnected motor wires from quick disconnect power supply. Removed motor bracket from freezer back using nut driver. Removed motor from bracket using same nut driver. Replaced motor and screws in bracket. reattached quick disconnect. Attached fan blade to motor making certain to push blade on shaft securely. Replaced bracket to freezer back. Replaced back cover. Replaced stripping. Plugged into power supply. Total time 15-20 minutes.

Upluged power pulled freezer out from wall removed the two screws that holds the defrost timer unpluged defrost timer pluged new timer in mounted new timer back with the two screws pluged freezer back in and job was complete. Freezer working fine.

After researching other issues found on internet about same problem, decided to replace both thermostat and temperature control thermastat before going to the repairman way. I saw the videos given on this web site, ordered the parts and when they came in, unplugged freezer and started taking apart the back cover not sure what I would find. Turns out it was just that simple, unplugged the thermastat and unclipped it from the cooling fins, unplugged the temperature control switch and then plugged both units back in. The tricky part was coiling the temperature sensor ( not that tricky). I was done in about 45 minutes but that also included cleaning out and scrubbing the bottom and sides of freezer since I had everything out anyways. Started the freezer back up and took about 8 hours to freeze ice and other food at a setting of 4, where as before I had it set on 7 and was still not keeping the ice cream cold.

inspected visible refrigeration lines for evidence of leaking, found nothing substantial that would cause concern, ordered capacitor and defrost thermostat simply because both are inexpensive parts and theoretically either could be causing the problem. Both parts were very simple to install especially since I am a semi-retired refrigeration man.

Unplug freezer let stand all night to defrost. Remove the tray cover which is located on the upper back area inside the freezer.( 3 twist fittings remove it ). Remove the upper stainless steel panel which is secured with 6 screws. This will drop down exposing the condenser. Note all the wires and fan will stay attached to the stainless steel panel, this panel will drop down no need to unplug anything. On the left upper side next to the condenser you will see the thermostat. Two color coded wires. Remove the thermostat and install the new one at the same location.

I followed the You-Tube instructions, removed the ice from the compressor and replaced the thermostat with the part I received from Part Select. What I took out was a part that was very much inferior to the replacement part. The repair saved me a lot of money for a new freezer and it was not difficult to do following the video. Now the freezer runs better and quieter than ever. Thank you Parts Select.

The evaporator fan would make a very high-pitched whine/squealing noise usually after starting up after a defrost cycle, although, it would make the same noises during normal operation. After performing a thorough inspection of the fan blade and motor, I discovered that there was no interference to the rotating fan, and realized the motor must be failing. After removing the food and racks from the main body of the freezer, I had to remove 8 Philips-tipped screws that held the inside back panel cover on. I disconnected the fan motor from the main wiring harness, removed the fan mounting bracket (2 5/16" hex head screws), and then removed the fan motor from the mounting bracket (2 5/16" hex head bolts. I removed the fan blade and conducted a visual inspection, and found not blemishes of broken/damaged pieces. I mounted the new motor and used the existing fan blade, and replaced everything in the reverse order. I turned on the freezer and it has been operating perfectly since. I disassembled the old motor and discovered that the stator coils were worn, and the bearings allowed to much forward/aft motion.

replaced controller start capacitor as per troubleshooting checklist. Was not the problem, then replace controller kit. seems to have resolved the problem.Temperature more constant. The problem with this refrig though in my opinion is that only one thermostat controls both the freezer compartment evap fan in freezercompartment also blows cold air into refrigcomp. There is not very much control over both temps. Am in monitoring both compartments and hoping that freezer will keep things frozen