ZIF181NPNAII General Electric Freezer - Instructions

Remove the shelves then remove the back by removing the two screws at the top of the panel. Locate the temperature sensor on top of the coil. Cut the wires and replace with the new one. Use wire nuts and electrical tape to reconnect the wires.

The problem began when freezer thawed and could not keep food frozen. Initially, I thought the issue was the defrost heater (because I had seen similar symptoms previously and resolved the issue with a new defrost heater)and I replaced that part with a spare that I had puchased previously. The issue was still unresolved and I noticed the evaporator fan was not running in the freezer because it would not turn on when I closed the door. I checked to make sure I could hear the compressor working (and it was)and concluded that the evaporator fan motor was not running. I ordered the part and found a YouTube DIY video on how to replace it. While I was at work, my fiancee took it upon herself to watch the installation video and install the new evaporator fan motor and all is well.

Removed rer cover, unplugged starter assembly from side of compressor and replaced unit with a new one. Plugged fridge in and it works good.

Watched a youtube on capacitors- though on a motor with a pulley, the symptoms were the same, motor running and pulley not turning-bad capacitor. Took a chance for a 17+ dollar part vs a new compressor. It worked.

Googled the model number of refrigerator with symptoms of "refrigerator wont run". Parts select web site appeared on my screen, opened Parts Select website, Partselect said probable cause of my frige symptom was that the run capacitor usually burns out 51% of the time. They were correct with the diagnosis 100%. I ordered the run capacitor for $23.00, installed it in 10 minutes, refrigerator runs good as new. Thank you for saving me cost of service call. I probably saved $200 or more. I will use Partselect again with my next problem. THANK YOU,

Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.

There were only 3parts listed to check omed out the defrost heater and thermostat ....thermistor checked bad ordered replacement took less than 2 minutes to replace after I defrosted it again runs fine

Easy. Followed the video instrucations. the part was right there next to the compressor.

as per video

Temp. Sensor was under an egg shaped cover on the left side wall in the refrigerator. Remove the cover, cut the two wires to the old sensor and remove it. Connect the new sensor to the two wires using butt connectors. Replace cover and done.

My son replaced both temperature sensors and the fridge works great now!!! Like brand new again!!!!

Ironically I did this today, as this email request came up asking how it went. I'm not a repairman, I'm a software engineer, and I can't thank this site enough for the step by step videos. With the video to help, this was a breeze, I was nervous as I had to empty all my freezer out onto the living room floor. Once that was done the repair took about 30 minutes. Thank you partselect!!!!! My second time doing business here, and I'll be coming back (well, if something breaks, so let's hope I don't have to).

Replaced all the sensors in both the feezer and refrigerator.Even though it colder now it still is not cold enough.Freezer won't freeze items but is cold and refrigerator still not real cold

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.

it was easy the only thing was i had to cut old harness to remove 2 wires that went to coil that had to go back in the new harness other then that a peice of cake.