PLFU2067DS3 Frigidaire Freezer - Instructions

un plug fridge. removed ice maker from fridge. loosen 2 mounting screws. lift unit in slots to get over heads of screws. unplug wire harness. remove cover. remove 3 screws from control housing. remove 2 motor mounting screws. unplug motor wires from switches w/needle nose. installation is the reverse. plug in fridge turn on icemaker. takes 10 to 15 min to start to cycle.
easy and cheaper than new fridge or ice maker

I knew that the problem had to do with the timer so I went online and looked at the schematic diagrams on Partselect and identified the part that should handle the problem. I ordered it and it arrived fairly quickly. It took a Phillips screw driver and about fifteen minutes to remove the old part and replace it with the new one. Very easy repair. It is working as it should now.

I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.

Pulled the refrigerator out from the wall. Then unplugged it took my nutdriver with a1/4" socket on it and took out the screws from the cardboard back on the bottom of the refrigerator. Then I removed the two screws holding the water valve on. Then I unscrewed the supply water line from the main water inlet valve. Then I removed the outlet waterline going to the ice maker from the water valve. Then I reversed the procedure to put it back together. Hooked up the main water line and turned the water valve on for the water to flow to the valve at first nothing happened had to wait for a couple of hours for everything else to get to the right temperature before the ice maker would start making ice.

Looking on-line at your diagnostic for this problem, I saw the most common part to cause this problem was the start capacitor, so I purchased one & installed it with no positive outcome. I then purchased the next recommended part which was a defrost timer & installed it with no run again. Frustrated, I looked at another diagnostic web site that claimed 90% of the time the problem is caused by the cold control thermostat. I tested mine and it tested bad, so I bought a control elsewhere, since your site did not list a PN for that device. I installed the new control and the freezer started up correctly. Looking at the wiring diagram for these parts, I see the start capacitor and defrost control are downstream of the cold control thermostat, and to my mind should have been the first part recommended for testing versus the parts I bought, so I am somewhat disappointed in the diagnostics on your site, where I spent about $80 for parts that were functional.

took the shelves out, unscrewed the rear panel,unpluged the thermistat and uncliped it from the line.Replaced with new thermistat in the reverse order. Before turning the unit back on,allowed the coils to defrost.All of the process was shown in your vidio that I was able to view while ordering the part. Thank you

Had to drag the full freezer out from the wall to expose the name plate, got the Model # and S/N and found the key on the partselect website in minutes. It was cheap so I got two. Other than FEDEX not knowing my address correctly, when I finally got the key it worked fine. Not a problem anymore.
Thanks

Turned thermostat down and freezer began to run. Once it was at desired temp it shut down and did not start again. Turning the thermostat down again caused the freezer to start again. At this point, decided the thermostat was defective.Unplugged the freezer and removed the shelving. Removed the knob from the thermostat. Removed the nine screws that held the back panel in place and pulled the panel forward. Removed the assembly that held the sensing tube in place and removed the sensing tube from it. Depressed the thermostat latch which holds it in the back panel and separated it from the panel. Removed the electrical connections and removed the thermostat assembly from the freezer. Reinstalled the new thermostat in the reverse order.

I replaced the solenoid first because the ice maker was not getting water. After replacing the solenoid valve, I waited about 1/2 an hour, still no water. So, I ordered a replacement ice maker. I then installed the replacement ice maker, waited a 1/2 an hour, still no water. Then, I waited overnight. Yeah, ice! WORD OF ADVICE. WAIT OVERNIGHT TO SEE IF THE ICE MAKER CREATES ICE. Not sure how long a cycle takes, but it's longer than you would think. Hope your installation is a success!

Watched YouTube video. Very easy. Used my cell phone camera in ‘selfie’ mode propped up in the upper right hand corner of freezer to see the 2 hidden screws.

Removed evap cover from Commercial Refrigerator. Removed mounting screws from Evap motor mount. Replaced evap fan motor. Repositioned. Reinstalled evap cover. Tested . This motor was hard to find locally. Glad I called.

The site offers a video for this part which worked perfectly. In addition to replacing the part, since the cardboard panel was off, we also cleaned all the dust off of the coils which someone recommended to do annually.

My issue was water leaking from the door. I thought it was the gasket, so I removed the gasket and the entire panel off of the door. There was water behind it that had soaked the cardboard seal, so I left that front part off for over a week to let it dry. We determined between us and our two toddlers that perhaps the door hadn't been properly closed enough on a number of occasions, so before I bought a $100 gasket, I'd try making sure the door was shut with tape, turning the freezer on and seeing what happened. There was no water after a few days, so on another user's suggestion I purchased the $15 key and twist tied it to the freezer door. Now I am locking the door after use so we won't have leaking water any longer.

Pull refrigerator from wall and disconnect the water line and unplug the power.

On top of the icemaker, two machine screws hold the icemaker to the side of the refrigerator. You will have to feel around to find the machine screws, but once you do, it is simple to slip the appropriate size socket over the hex heads. I found it helpful to have an extension on the socket wrench. Disconnect the power cable inside the refrigerator (there are little pressure clips on the side that help release the cable) and move it out of the way for the time-being.

Back out both machine screws several turns, but do not remove them completely. The icemaker slips over the screws, so leaving them in the side of the refrigerator makes that process a lot easier. Hand tighten the machine screws once you have positioned the new icemaker in place. One thing to be sure and do is make sure the water line hose coming out of the back of the refrigerator inside is on top of the icemaker. It fits into a slot in the top of the icemaker - failing to do this will result in water pouring into the freezer compartment, not into the icemaker..

Reconnect the power cable to the new icemaker and tuck it up behind the icemaker assembly. Tighten the machine screws completely, but do not over-tighten.

Reconnect the water line on the back of the refrigerator at the wall, and plug in the refrigerator. You should hear the unit fill immediately.

In about an hour you should have ice filling the bin. Enjoy!

Replaced defrost thermostat and defrost timer on my commercial Kelvinator freezer. Took out screws inside freezer compartment that hold panel at top inside freezer.Once the screws were removed I pulled out the thermostat dial so the panel was free to drop down and expose coils to the freezer that were located in the top rear of the inside freezer compartment.The defrost thermostat was located on the top of the coil to the top left as you face the inside of the Kelvinator KFS220RHY1 freezer. Very easy unplug old and plug in new defrost thermostat. Also replaced timer located in the back side of the freezer down near the middle of the bottom of the freezer near the compressor. There were two nuts holding the timer in the back of the freezer once I took those out I just unplugged the old timer and plugged the new timer in ....very simple fix. I have only run my freezer for a week since I replaced both parts but so far all is working well.