CFFH17F1RW1 Frigidaire Freezer - Instructions

I removed the shelves, unscrewed the cover panel of the fan motor and regulator dial, disconnected the fan motor from power, unscrewed 2 screws holding the motor to the mounting bracket and put the new motor in it's place. New motor had no thread in the mounting holes, so I put new tread in so I could use the 2 screws. Another option would have been to drill all the way through the mounting holes and use longer screws or bolts. Of course I turned the power off before I started repairs. Freezer runs like new now. Technicians wanted $400 for the job, while it cost me a mere $55 for the Motor.

Bought the defrost timer based on PartSelect recommendations, installed it and no change. Apparently the old one was fine but since the refrigerator was in a flood and this part got submerged in water I kept it rather than returning it. I looked at everything closely and realized all the mechanical functions were working properly. Rarely does a condenser coil fail so I decided to look into recharging the coolant. Bought a 1/4 inch bullet valve, a 12oz. can of R-134a and a cheap resealable can adapter with hose, gauge and R22 to R-134a adapters. After a $30. investment Bingo, after one squirt the refrigerator began to cool and after 4oz. it now works better than new. I understand that PartSelect is in the business of selling only their parts but please consider that there can be other simple problems.

Removed the old defrost timer by removing 4 screws on the holding bracket. Disconnected the wire harness. Reconnected the wire harness to the new part. Installed the new part with 2 screws on the top of the molded bracket. I am a 67 year old woman... easy-peasy. (the defost timer is located in the bottom left rear of the freezer.

very simple,started by turning off the power to that outlet (in breaker panel) then removed the 3 bottom screws, 2 side screws and 3 top screws (all 8 screws are Phillips head) in order to remove the panel. Disconnected the motor (unplugged it) and removed the 2 screws holding the motor in place to remove the motor. I installed the Fan on the new motor, and remounted it in place , reconnected it and replaced the panel and all 8 screws. (and the side seals push back into place easily after you replace all the panel screws.
Very easy, it took less than 15 minutes to make repairs and freezer was back in operation and back to below freezing temps in less than an hour.

Unscrew it off and screw the other on

Turned freezer off and removed cover in freezer at the bottom, notice fan blades were broken off, removed the 2 screws that were holding the fan motor in place removed fan blade and replaced with new fan blade, problem solved

Replaced thermostat and it fixed the problem. Freezer comes on and turns off automatically and regulates internal temperature around 2-5 degrees.
The hardest part was extending the coiled probe tubing and forming it to fit into clamp without kinking it.

The old defrost timer started making a screeching noise (probably bearings going out). The replacement part was a cinch to install. When I initially spoke to a PartsSelect person, they said the part number I gave them was not consistent with my old '94 Tappan Freezer. They were able to still find the proper replacement part number. The video that was on-line helpful also.

Removed the inside evaporator coil to do inside solder job, use torch to heat solder joints on the outside drier in order to remove it and install new drier. Soldered Heat exchanger line to drier and 1/4” copper line to compressor. Wrapped with new insulation wrap. Pulled a vacuum on system and then charged with 4.4 ounces of 134a freon. Works like a champ again!

The timer in this older unit is clearly exposed at the back of the freezer underneath the freezer compartment. It is attached with two Phillips head screws. After the screws are removed, the timer can be unplugged and the new one plugged in. The new timer has an extra flange to allow it to be used on more than one model of freezer. In order to mount the timer in this unit, you have to remove the extra flange by carefully cutting it away from the timer body, in similar fashion to what's depicted in the online video. This will allow you to mount the new timer to the mounting plate using the two screws from the old timer.

I recommend completing steps 1-3 before purchasing your part, so as to avoid my mistakes.

1) Unplug the freezer and clear whatever is currently in the door. This fix is fast enough you don't need to empty the whole freezer.

2) Use a socket wrench to remove the two bolts holding the top hinge to the freezer. Once they're off, the hinge can pulled up and off.

3) Lift the door free from the bottom hinge. Important Note! Check that it's the door closing cam that's broken, and not, for example, the bearing that seats with the door cam that is listed on the freezer part of the schematic, and not the door part. If you're a smarty pants, you order(ed) the right part. If you're me, you continue with this tutorial but still need to order another part to complete the fix. Don't be like me.

4) Using your philips-head screwdriver, remove the screw holding the remnants of the old door cam to the bottom of the door. Pull out the old cam and insert the new one. Rescrew.

5) Grab your extra person put of your toolbox and have them help you guide the door back onto the bottom hinge. The door is not heavy but no one wants to play blind Battleship while your freezer contents actively defrost.

6) Stick the top hinge back into place and reattach the bolts.

7) PLUG YOUR FREEZER BACK IN! And also check that the door works now.

I changed the cooling control

Shelf went right in required holes.

This unit already had an area where an extra shelf would go. Just put in into the extra shelf holes. No problems.

Pretty simple, take cover off back of freezer to access thermostat, unhook thermostat and replace with new one. It had wire hookups different from original part so had to look up that information. Turned out it did not matter which wire went on which prong.