FFU14F3AW1 Frigidaire Freezer - Instructions

Unplugged the freezer. Located the Run Capacitor (next to the compressor). Removed the wire holding bracket, removed the Run Capacitor from the Start Relay. Installed the NEW Capacitor, re-installed the holding bracket. Plugged the unit in, looking at the display for the proper start-up sequence data. All is good - freezer operating for another 10+ yrs. NOTE: When removing the Run Capacitor, beware the COMPRESSOR could be HOT to the touch.

On 08/13 / 2025 starting in the AM --- My Wife Marie Defrosted -- Cleaned and dried the Kenmore up right freezer she has had for more than 33 years --- She noticed there was screws behind the inside door gasket and informed yours truly --- 1st Jacques loosened all the screws then removed the old gasket -- took it cleaned it and boxed it in the box the new gasket came in --- Took new freezer door gasket and installed it neatly around the door by tucking back part of door gasket between door panel and door --- once all was in place started tightening all screws starting at bottom holding bottom gasket material tight with other hand --- then working counter clock wise till done !!! there you go it was very easy and turned out great !!! Now everything is like new !!! Jacques And Marie / from Virginia

It went exactly like your on line video. It took longer to defrost the freeze than it did to make the parts change out.

Removed old gasket, then installed new gasket. Make sure to allow new gasket to set out for a few days prior to installing to get all wrinkles out, use a heat gun after installing to make gasket shape to freezer door.

I removed the shelves in the freezer, took out the five 1/4" screws and lifted off the cover. It was a simple matter of using a blow drier to remove all the ice, then unplugging the two wires and unclipping the thermostat from the upper cooling tube. Then clipped the new one on and reconnecting the two wires.

Works great!!!

removed the screws/nuts; pulled the back panel off, removed the old thermostat (wires just popped apart) replaced the new thermostat (wires just popped back on) replaced the back panel and the nuts and TaDa!!

I paid attention to how the old part came off. You need a small (very small) flat bladed screwdriver to release the two wires that plug into the controller. I checked that it was a bit difficult but it would had been easier if I could have found a screwdriver sooner.

Loosen screws, removed old gasket seal, replace with new gasket (nice to use 2 sets of hands) and re screwed. Used hairdryer to heat up and fluff out a spot that wasnt seal all the way. Pretty simplementation to do.

First unplug freezer, then disconnected wires from timer.
Removed 2 screws from bracket holding time to freezer.
Attached New part with screws. .The mounting bracket is now part of New time. Reattach wires.
I let coils defrost and then plugged it.

Had to remove all screws on rear back cover of freezer inside, unplugged refridgerator, uncliped thermostat, unpluged thermostat. Replaced thermostat with new one in the same location, and let defrost fulley. Reassembled, pluged in, and tested. All was good. But I did also replace timer at first part of the repair so I suggest you replace both at the same time.

Removed the back panel in freezer compartment with the nut-driver. Then I cut off old thermostat connections, and spliced in new thermostat connections (repairman had already replaced defrost timer, and said not to trust connectors included on wires-they failed often). Then I snapped thermostat itself onto cooler coil. So far so good, fridge is running at 35-40 degrees a week later. Thanks Parts-Select!!!

I used the tool at Partselect that in theory allows diagnostic of the problem to be repaired. The result was that more tan 90% of the time with the introduced symptoms it had to be the thermostat. I order the part, got it quickly and installed. It did not fix the problem. So, be careful with the diagnostic tool, because it is just based on what most people buy when they have a particular problem. Videos for installation are great. If diagnosis was better, this would be fantastic. In my case there might be a different problem.

freezer section remove ice trays ,shelves,unplug ice tray.use 1/4 nut driver remove back panel,use hair dryer thaw ice from evap coil ,unplug tstat remove install new one.plug in ice maker,put back panel back on ,ice maker and shelves plug refridgerator back in

Unscrew all the fasteners from the door inner cover from the bottom to top to hold it in position, got rid of the old gasket.

I Cleaned all and install the new gastket into the door inner cover. then reintalled cover to the starting from the top to bottom to hold it in place.

this is a one man job but with two will be easer

1. Ensure that the power is completely removed from the freezer. 2. Using needle-nose pliers and a screw driver, remove the wire retainer holding the controller assembly to the compressor and remove the controller assembly by pulling away from the compressor. 3. Cut the two wires from the existing controller assembly and strip the ends about a quarter of an inch. 4. Slide the heat shrink tubing over the wires of the connector provided with the controller kit. 5. Use the Blue Barrel connectors provided with the controller kit to connect the controller wires provided in the kit to the existing wires of the freezer. **Ensure that they are well crimped. 6. Using a heat gun, shrink the tubing to fit over the connector and wires. **Be careful not to overheat. 7. Plug the connector into the new controller provided in the kit. 8. Plug the controller assembly back into the socket on the compressor. 9. Reattach the wire retainer securely to hold the controller assembly to the compressor. 10. Plug in the freezer and adjust the thermostat so that the compressor energizes. If the controller was the issue your freezer should begin to cool.