FFU14F3AW1 Frigidaire Freezer - Instructions

its best to use power screw driver lot of screws .took out all screws took off door took out side to remove ice from door. just used water to melt ice. took off old gasket and put on new gasket. put door in place and started screws in four coners do not tighten screws at this point.put in rest of screws. work arondclock wise making sure gasket is seated while tighing screws. check gasket for flatness you may have to use hair dryer on gasket to make it flat.

After silencing the alarm, it seemed to be running as normal without any unusual noises, but food was starting to thaw from the top shelf on down and condensation was dripping from the roof. We were able to place most of the food in 2 large ice chests and then the rest in the freezer compartments of 2 fridges we have in the house. I then turned down the temp dial to the coldest setting and let it run for an hour or so; no change.

After researching on the internet, it sounded like our symptoms could be pointing to a defrost timer issue. I pulled the freezer away from the wall, located the timer and used a large screwdriver to slowly advance it. While doing this, at one point I could hear the compressor kick in. I pushed the quick freeze button and let it run for a while. When I checked it in a few hours, the alarm light had gone out and water that I had placed inside was frozen. We took a chance and put the food we placed in the ice chests back in the freezer. Everything was fine several hours later.

I ordered a new defrost timer, it arrived in a couple of days, and replaced the old one with it in a matter of minutes by disconnecting the wire harness from the old timer, removing the 2 screws holding it onto the bracket, screwing the new timer to the bracket, reconnecting the wires harness, and done. It's been a week or so and no problems.

Simply unscrew panel but do not remove it. Remove old gasket. Fit new gasket between panel and door. Fasten screws and no more leaks and better temperature contol. This was so easy and rejuvenated my freezer. Thank you for quick shipment, great service, easy to navigate website, and fast phone help. I highly recommend your company. good luck with your repairs that you can do, as I have zero mechanical ability and did it !!!!

After building a test box and determining the Controller was bad simply ordered parts and installed. Installation was a little difficult due to locking spades on electrical connections.

Unplug all power from freezer. Remove Bail wire from controller capacitor unit and remove from compressor by pulling STRAIGHT from compressor body to avoid bending contacts.

Use a very small instrumentation screwdriver to release locking spade on yellow and white wires. To unlock slide screwdriver in slot along wire entry to controller body while gently pulling on wire. Note position of wires and replace on new unit in same position/order. Plug new run capacitor into new controller being careful to orient capacitor to proper position (hole matches guide on controller unit). Plug newly installed controller and capacitor into condensor and replace bail wire.

Make sure timer is not in defrost mode - manually advance timer if necessary to ensure timer is in run mode. Turn temperature control to coldest setting. Plug in and hopefully enjoy the humming noise of your newly repaired and operational compressor and freezer.

slid freezer away from wall - - bottom left hand corner was the frost timer - - removed two philip head screws - - unpluged timer and installed new timer - - turned timer past first click to a little past second click (freeze cycle) - - slid freezer back FINISHED - - YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST WITH YOUR WEB PAGE AND HELP!!!!! Next day freezer was at 0

Watched the defrost timer to see that it wasnt moving, looked the part number up on your site and it even had a picture of it so I knew I was getting what I needed, ordered it when it came I took out the screws holding it in place unplugged old one and plugged in the new one, freezer works like new... :))

One day my freezer's overtemp light/warning came on. I knew the compressor was working properly (as it was still running) and that there were no leaks.

I was able to research about how this freezer worked and learned of this mechanical timer on the back of the freezer. It turns on/off the defrost mode of the freezer.

I manually turned the knob on the back to see if I could get the freezer to defrost. Turns out the timer was no longer working and when I manually ran the defrost, the freezer started to freeze again.

I just replaced this part and my freezer is working like norma.. Simple as all it takes is a few screws and you are done.

1. Turned off and unplugged the refrigerator.
2. Removed the lower back panel inside the freezer with a screwdriver.
3. Unplugged the thermostat. (No tool is needed)
4. Ordered a new thermostat from PartSelect and it arrived in 2 business days.
5. Plugged in the new thermostat..
6. Put the lower back panel inside the freezer with screwdriver.
7. Plugged in the Refrigerator and turned the power back on.
8. It is working again!!!

I knew that the problem had to do with the timer so I went online and looked at the schematic diagrams on Partselect and identified the part that should handle the problem. I ordered it and it arrived fairly quickly. It took a Phillips screw driver and about fifteen minutes to remove the old part and replace it with the new one. Very easy repair. It is working as it should now.

Removed two screws and wire harness from old motor. Put in new motor and connected wire harness.

took the shelves out, unscrewed the rear panel,unpluged the thermistat and uncliped it from the line.Replaced with new thermistat in the reverse order. Before turning the unit back on,allowed the coils to defrost.All of the process was shown in your vidio that I was able to view while ordering the part. Thank you

Looking on-line at your diagnostic for this problem, I saw the most common part to cause this problem was the start capacitor, so I purchased one & installed it with no positive outcome. I then purchased the next recommended part which was a defrost timer & installed it with no run again. Frustrated, I looked at another diagnostic web site that claimed 90% of the time the problem is caused by the cold control thermostat. I tested mine and it tested bad, so I bought a control elsewhere, since your site did not list a PN for that device. I installed the new control and the freezer started up correctly. Looking at the wiring diagram for these parts, I see the start capacitor and defrost control are downstream of the cold control thermostat, and to my mind should have been the first part recommended for testing versus the parts I bought, so I am somewhat disappointed in the diagnostics on your site, where I spent about $80 for parts that were functional.

Replaced defrost thermostat and defrost timer on my commercial Kelvinator freezer. Took out screws inside freezer compartment that hold panel at top inside freezer.Once the screws were removed I pulled out the thermostat dial so the panel was free to drop down and expose coils to the freezer that were located in the top rear of the inside freezer compartment.The defrost thermostat was located on the top of the coil to the top left as you face the inside of the Kelvinator KFS220RHY1 freezer. Very easy unplug old and plug in new defrost thermostat. Also replaced timer located in the back side of the freezer down near the middle of the bottom of the freezer near the compressor. There were two nuts holding the timer in the back of the freezer once I took those out I just unplugged the old timer and plugged the new timer in ....very simple fix. I have only run my freezer for a week since I replaced both parts but so far all is working well.

Removed evaporator cover, unplug 2 wires to thermostat, unclipped it from the coil. Installed new themostat back the same way.

Very simple repair. Removed the bail that holds the compressor controller and run capacitor from the compressor, removed the controller & capacitor, inserted a very small screwdriver into the controller to compress the barbs that hold the electrical wires to the controller. Plugged in the wires to the new controller in the same position as the original, plugged in the capacitor and then plugged the entire unit back onto the compressor, replaced the wire bail, plugged in the freezer and repair was complete.