FFU20FC6AW4 Frigidaire Freezer - Instructions

This freezer has many screws that hold the cover on the back of the door and assist clamping the edge of the gasket in place. Be sure to just loosen the screws 3/4 the way out, use a flat head screw driver to pry the cover from the door in case over time it is stuck to the door. The new gasket will come in a creative box trying not to kink the gasket itself, but there will be some distortion of the gasket when you get it. Put it in the sun or in hot water. I put it in my dryer for 10 minutes. Remove the old gasket, and start at the top of the door to replace the gasket. TIPS: If the screws are backed out enough, there should not be any problem sliding the back part of the gasket under the cover. When on the sides, do not pull the gasket down to make it easier to slide the gasket underneath the cover. This will distort and lengthen the gasket so it will not fit and thin it out so it will not function well. Once the gasket is in place, tighten the screws being sure to feel along the outside edge of the gasket for any bulging that would indicate that portion of the gasket is NOT under the cover properly.

I accidently threw away both freezer keys to our upright Gibson and G.E. Freezers!!!! I had no luck finding replacements locally, so I got on the internet and came across PartSelect.com. I called them on the telephone; and after giving the model numbers of my freezers, the keys were on their way!! I received the keys very quickly and both worked perfectly. I would highly recommend Partselect.com. Charlotte M. Bishop

Easy fix. I unplugged the freezer, unload items in freezer. took out shelves and baskets, Pulled off the control knob then removed all screws. removed inside panel, replaced part exactly as I took out old part. Put the panel back on, put everything back in place. Plugged freezer back in and turned the knob to 3. Let freezer run for a day to see if I ordered the correct part. Problem is fixed. Thank you, PartSelect for making it so easy to find, order the correct part and for all the customers input to make the repair easy.

After silencing the alarm, it seemed to be running as normal without any unusual noises, but food was starting to thaw from the top shelf on down and condensation was dripping from the roof. We were able to place most of the food in 2 large ice chests and then the rest in the freezer compartments of 2 fridges we have in the house. I then turned down the temp dial to the coldest setting and let it run for an hour or so; no change.

After researching on the internet, it sounded like our symptoms could be pointing to a defrost timer issue. I pulled the freezer away from the wall, located the timer and used a large screwdriver to slowly advance it. While doing this, at one point I could hear the compressor kick in. I pushed the quick freeze button and let it run for a while. When I checked it in a few hours, the alarm light had gone out and water that I had placed inside was frozen. We took a chance and put the food we placed in the ice chests back in the freezer. Everything was fine several hours later.

I ordered a new defrost timer, it arrived in a couple of days, and replaced the old one with it in a matter of minutes by disconnecting the wire harness from the old timer, removing the 2 screws holding it onto the bracket, screwing the new timer to the bracket, reconnecting the wires harness, and done. It's been a week or so and no problems.

The repair was as easy as removing three phillip head screws for each slide rail and removing and replacing the broken slide rail. However, over the years, the walls of the freezer had bowed making the drawer a bit short to ride on the new rails -- causing the drawer to fall off the slide rails since the span between each rail was now wider than the basket. To remedy this problem. I used washers and placed them on the back side of each rail where the screws are located . This was the perfect solution compensating for the extra width resulting from the slightly bowed walls in the freezer. This solution allowed the basket to fit on each slide rail without falling off .

After building a test box and determining the Controller was bad simply ordered parts and installed. Installation was a little difficult due to locking spades on electrical connections.

Unplug all power from freezer. Remove Bail wire from controller capacitor unit and remove from compressor by pulling STRAIGHT from compressor body to avoid bending contacts.

Use a very small instrumentation screwdriver to release locking spade on yellow and white wires. To unlock slide screwdriver in slot along wire entry to controller body while gently pulling on wire. Note position of wires and replace on new unit in same position/order. Plug new run capacitor into new controller being careful to orient capacitor to proper position (hole matches guide on controller unit). Plug newly installed controller and capacitor into condensor and replace bail wire.

Make sure timer is not in defrost mode - manually advance timer if necessary to ensure timer is in run mode. Turn temperature control to coldest setting. Plug in and hopefully enjoy the humming noise of your newly repaired and operational compressor and freezer.

Repair was quick and easy. I removed the frozen food in the bottom so the back panel could be removed. The temperature comtrol is attached to the back of that panel. It has a metal wire with a capillary tube on the end to sense the temperature. I just installed it exactly like the old one came out. Be sure and don't get the wires mixed up. Sometimes it helps to make notes. This was also a good time to clean the bottom out and make sure the drain hole was clear.

It took two days for the temperature to stabilize. I was anxious for a couple days that there was something else wrong. However, it smoothed out and the temperature control (thermostat) is now working properly.

We ordered the part, which was a key, tied it on the freezer door handle, locked the door and voila, the problem was fixed. (We still have the children. :-)

slid freezer away from wall - - bottom left hand corner was the frost timer - - removed two philip head screws - - unpluged timer and installed new timer - - turned timer past first click to a little past second click (freeze cycle) - - slid freezer back FINISHED - - YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST WITH YOUR WEB PAGE AND HELP!!!!! Next day freezer was at 0

Pretty straight forward. Loosen all screws "but do not remove" pry door panel from door just enough to slip gasket behind panel. Make sure gasket is seated properly around door.. Tighten all screws snug...

Gasket may not seal right away due to being kinked from packaging, use a little heat on gasket witth hairdryer and push something heavy against door over night. The gasket will straighten out over night.

Watched the defrost timer to see that it wasnt moving, looked the part number up on your site and it even had a picture of it so I knew I was getting what I needed, ordered it when it came I took out the screws holding it in place unplugged old one and plugged in the new one, freezer works like new... :))

One day my freezer's overtemp light/warning came on. I knew the compressor was working properly (as it was still running) and that there were no leaks.

I was able to research about how this freezer worked and learned of this mechanical timer on the back of the freezer. It turns on/off the defrost mode of the freezer.

I manually turned the knob on the back to see if I could get the freezer to defrost. Turns out the timer was no longer working and when I manually ran the defrost, the freezer started to freeze again.

I just replaced this part and my freezer is working like norma.. Simple as all it takes is a few screws and you are done.

1. Turned off and unplugged the refrigerator.
2. Removed the lower back panel inside the freezer with a screwdriver.
3. Unplugged the thermostat. (No tool is needed)
4. Ordered a new thermostat from PartSelect and it arrived in 2 business days.
5. Plugged in the new thermostat..
6. Put the lower back panel inside the freezer with screwdriver.
7. Plugged in the Refrigerator and turned the power back on.
8. It is working again!!!

I knew that the problem had to do with the timer so I went online and looked at the schematic diagrams on Partselect and identified the part that should handle the problem. I ordered it and it arrived fairly quickly. It took a Phillips screw driver and about fifteen minutes to remove the old part and replace it with the new one. Very easy repair. It is working as it should now.

Removed the numerous screws and took the door panel off. Cleaned and dried it. Replaced the insulation and hung the penal with 2 screws at the top and sides. Started to fit the gasket under the edge of the panel and put on the screws as I went across the top then down the sides finishing across the bottom. Perfect fit but could not get the door to seal at all. Went out and bought a new freezer(did I say it was 17 yrs old?!?!).