FFU20FK1CW0 Frigidaire Freezer - Instructions

Used Phillips head screw driver to remove panel to expose old thermostat control. Took picture with phone to use and a guide. Replaced old with new and placed panel back o . Working perfectly! 30 minute max to complete.

It went exactly like your on line video. It took longer to defrost the freeze than it did to make the parts change out.

Unplugged the freezer. Located the Run Capacitor (next to the compressor). Removed the wire holding bracket, removed the Run Capacitor from the Start Relay. Installed the NEW Capacitor, re-installed the holding bracket. Plugged the unit in, looking at the display for the proper start-up sequence data. All is good - freezer operating for another 10+ yrs. NOTE: When removing the Run Capacitor, beware the COMPRESSOR could be HOT to the touch.

The timer in this older unit is clearly exposed at the back of the freezer underneath the freezer compartment. It is attached with two Phillips head screws. After the screws are removed, the timer can be unplugged and the new one plugged in. The new timer has an extra flange to allow it to be used on more than one model of freezer. In order to mount the timer in this unit, you have to remove the extra flange by carefully cutting it away from the timer body, in similar fashion to what's depicted in the online video. This will allow you to mount the new timer to the mounting plate using the two screws from the old timer.

easy and fast

Had to remove all screws on rear back cover of freezer inside, unplugged refridgerator, uncliped thermostat, unpluged thermostat. Replaced thermostat with new one in the same location, and let defrost fulley. Reassembled, pluged in, and tested. All was good. But I did also replace timer at first part of the repair so I suggest you replace both at the same time.

Removed the back panel in freezer compartment with the nut-driver. Then I cut off old thermostat connections, and spliced in new thermostat connections (repairman had already replaced defrost timer, and said not to trust connectors included on wires-they failed often). Then I snapped thermostat itself onto cooler coil. So far so good, fridge is running at 35-40 degrees a week later. Thanks Parts-Select!!!

Remove All Interior Metal On Inside Of Upper Part Of Fridge, Then Remove Fan & Brackets. There Was A Total Of 6 Screws & 4 Electrical Wires That I Had To Remove To Have This Fan Ready To Replace. Then I Ordered A New Fan From This Excellent Online Appliance Part Select Ware House. And From There It Was Delivered To Pine Shadows MHC In Cottonwood, AZ Northern Arizona Largest Mobile Home Community In This Beautiful Verde Valley Desert. Where We Have Sunshine Every Day Of The Year. And I Thank You For The Prompt Response That Your Ware House Performed That Evening. From Yours Truly Jeff

I used the tool at Partselect that in theory allows diagnostic of the problem to be repaired. The result was that more tan 90% of the time with the introduced symptoms it had to be the thermostat. I order the part, got it quickly and installed. It did not fix the problem. So, be careful with the diagnostic tool, because it is just based on what most people buy when they have a particular problem. Videos for installation are great. If diagnosis was better, this would be fantastic. In my case there might be a different problem.

I paid attention to how the old part came off. You need a small (very small) flat bladed screwdriver to release the two wires that plug into the controller. I checked that it was a bit difficult but it would had been easier if I could have found a screwdriver sooner.

removed the screws/nuts; pulled the back panel off, removed the old thermostat (wires just popped apart) replaced the new thermostat (wires just popped back on) replaced the back panel and the nuts and TaDa!!

I removed the shelves in the freezer, took out the five 1/4" screws and lifted off the cover. It was a simple matter of using a blow drier to remove all the ice, then unplugging the two wires and unclipping the thermostat from the upper cooling tube. Then clipped the new one on and reconnecting the two wires.

Works great!!!

First unplug freezer, then disconnected wires from timer.
Removed 2 screws from bracket holding time to freezer.
Attached New part with screws. .The mounting bracket is now part of New time. Reattach wires.
I let coils defrost and then plugged it.

freezer section remove ice trays ,shelves,unplug ice tray.use 1/4 nut driver remove back panel,use hair dryer thaw ice from evap coil ,unplug tstat remove install new one.plug in ice maker,put back panel back on ,ice maker and shelves plug refridgerator back in

1. Ensure that the power is completely removed from the freezer. 2. Using needle-nose pliers and a screw driver, remove the wire retainer holding the controller assembly to the compressor and remove the controller assembly by pulling away from the compressor. 3. Cut the two wires from the existing controller assembly and strip the ends about a quarter of an inch. 4. Slide the heat shrink tubing over the wires of the connector provided with the controller kit. 5. Use the Blue Barrel connectors provided with the controller kit to connect the controller wires provided in the kit to the existing wires of the freezer. **Ensure that they are well crimped. 6. Using a heat gun, shrink the tubing to fit over the connector and wires. **Be careful not to overheat. 7. Plug the connector into the new controller provided in the kit. 8. Plug the controller assembly back into the socket on the compressor. 9. Reattach the wire retainer securely to hold the controller assembly to the compressor. 10. Plug in the freezer and adjust the thermostat so that the compressor energizes. If the controller was the issue your freezer should begin to cool.