GLFH1779GW2 Frigidaire Freezer - Instructions

I unplugged the fridge and unscrewed the back cover,unscrewwd the two screws holding the water valve in place and the water line to the ice maker and the electrical connection and install the new water valve,then buttoned everything back up and plugged the fridge back in and it is working great,making ice as normal.

I first replaced the defrost timer about a week prior and it did not correct the problem. I then ordered the thermostat from partselect and within 15 minutes had the part installed. My refridgerator has been running correctly for a couple weeks.

There is PG and E employee working in one of the electrical post that cause the electric surging,there is a 3 big bang then we smell burning wire.it blew and burned the compressor relay,so what i did is figure it out, all 2 refregirator fan is running the heater is working,but its not cooling, when I touch the compressor there is no vibration,so all i did is removed the compressor relay, and I found out that the wire is burned and melted the connector, i order the relay from parts select and install it.1.remove the capacitor and install it to the new relay. 2.put a new connecrtor from the wire.3. install the compressor relay.easy as 1,2,3.

First I removed the clamp, pulled out the part, and diconnected the two wires on the side and a small screw. Reconnected the new part with the small screw, connected the wires and plugged the part back to the side of the motor. Whaa La, Done.

Pull refrigerator from wall and disconnect the water line and unplug the power.

On top of the icemaker, two machine screws hold the icemaker to the side of the refrigerator. You will have to feel around to find the machine screws, but once you do, it is simple to slip the appropriate size socket over the hex heads. I found it helpful to have an extension on the socket wrench. Disconnect the power cable inside the refrigerator (there are little pressure clips on the side that help release the cable) and move it out of the way for the time-being.

Back out both machine screws several turns, but do not remove them completely. The icemaker slips over the screws, so leaving them in the side of the refrigerator makes that process a lot easier. Hand tighten the machine screws once you have positioned the new icemaker in place. One thing to be sure and do is make sure the water line hose coming out of the back of the refrigerator inside is on top of the icemaker. It fits into a slot in the top of the icemaker - failing to do this will result in water pouring into the freezer compartment, not into the icemaker..

Reconnect the power cable to the new icemaker and tuck it up behind the icemaker assembly. Tighten the machine screws completely, but do not over-tighten.

Reconnect the water line on the back of the refrigerator at the wall, and plug in the refrigerator. You should hear the unit fill immediately.

In about an hour you should have ice filling the bin. Enjoy!

Pulled the refrigerator out from the wall. Then unplugged it took my nutdriver with a1/4" socket on it and took out the screws from the cardboard back on the bottom of the refrigerator. Then I removed the two screws holding the water valve on. Then I unscrewed the supply water line from the main water inlet valve. Then I removed the outlet waterline going to the ice maker from the water valve. Then I reversed the procedure to put it back together. Hooked up the main water line and turned the water valve on for the water to flow to the valve at first nothing happened had to wait for a couple of hours for everything else to get to the right temperature before the ice maker would start making ice.

Turn off ice maker
Slide wire harness shield off connector
Disconnected harness
Loosened 2 wall screws
Remove old ice maker
Installed new one reversing process

After receiving the part in the mail I removed it from the box and laid it flay on the floor. I had to use a hair dryer to CAREFULLY work it flat from the shipping. This took about an hour and a glass of scotch. I then let it sit over night to get the gasket as flat as possible. The next day I unloaded the freezer, unplugged it, and pulled the old gasket off by removing all the screws. I carefully slide the seal out of the track and did not remove the cover from the door. I left the door open for a couple hours to completely melt all of the ice and clean out the interior. I put the top and bottom of the seal in the track and carefully worked the sides in. It helps if you use a few screws to hold the gasket in place. Then easily pull the gasket to position it correctly. Using a screw gun with a clutch will help since there are quite a few screws. Check the seal by closing the door and see how it seals. It may be necessary to use the hair dryer to get the seal to pull up to the freezer body. Close the door and plug it it. Wait a few hours before putting in any food. Take your time and having a helper will make it go quicker.

It was real easy but I still have problem making ice cubs
Fell problem is in the ice maker went it dose make cubs they don,t dump

The part i recieved, from parts select was a larger in circumfrence (<1/4) than the original. However i was not aware of this until after i treid to repair it.

I removed the broken fan from the condenser. This was very sipmle.

When i pluged the refridgerator back in to the outlet the fan tried to start up but soon began to make aloud noise, due to there not being enough clerance.

Looked it up on how to, follow the video
. Very easy 1-2-3 it was out and new one in..........??.

Both end caps were missing on the door side bottom metal shelf. succesfully installed no tools needed

Loosened the 2 bolts 4 turns where it mounts inside the freezer. Lift maker off the bolts unplug 1 plug. Reverse to install.

Removed shelves ,removed panel on interior back wall with Philips screwdriver ,unplugged wire terminals slid thermostat off coil ,then reversed process to complete installation.

Replaced thermostat and it fixed the problem. Freezer comes on and turns off automatically and regulates internal temperature around 2-5 degrees.
The hardest part was extending the coiled probe tubing and forming it to fit into clamp without kinking it.