FFU17F5HWD Frigidaire Freezer - Instructions

Remove shelves. Unplug unit. Unscrew back panel. Remove wire harness. Remove old fan. Insert new fan. Screw it in. Reattach wires harness. Plug unit in and make sure fan is on.
Reattach back panel. Put shelves back in.

My freezer is back working fine, Thank You

I removed the plate (recommend using a magnetic phillips head screw driver to remmove screws which are recessed). I removed the old part and pushed the new part through the hole and carefully reached in behindto attach the wires to the new part.

Unplugged the freezer. Located the Run Capacitor (next to the compressor). Removed the wire holding bracket, removed the Run Capacitor from the Start Relay. Installed the NEW Capacitor, re-installed the holding bracket. Plugged the unit in, looking at the display for the proper start-up sequence data. All is good - freezer operating for another 10+ yrs. NOTE: When removing the Run Capacitor, beware the COMPRESSOR could be HOT to the touch.

This did not fix the problem. Call a repairman and he cannot come until 9/11. Food is staying frozen. Alarm sounds for awhile and then shuts off for a bit.

The left swing hinge (297283901) that i needed is not available anywhere so I bought the right swing hinge (297283900), used a hydraulic press to pop out the pin and move it to the other hole. After that it was real quick to remove the screws and change out the hinge, changing the swing of the door. It is easiest to remove the top hinge and door first when doing this.

removed the screws/nuts; pulled the back panel off, removed the old thermostat (wires just popped apart) replaced the new thermostat (wires just popped back on) replaced the back panel and the nuts and TaDa!!

Had to remove all screws on rear back cover of freezer inside, unplugged refridgerator, uncliped thermostat, unpluged thermostat. Replaced thermostat with new one in the same location, and let defrost fulley. Reassembled, pluged in, and tested. All was good. But I did also replace timer at first part of the repair so I suggest you replace both at the same time.

I used the tool at Partselect that in theory allows diagnostic of the problem to be repaired. The result was that more tan 90% of the time with the introduced symptoms it had to be the thermostat. I order the part, got it quickly and installed. It did not fix the problem. So, be careful with the diagnostic tool, because it is just based on what most people buy when they have a particular problem. Videos for installation are great. If diagnosis was better, this would be fantastic. In my case there might be a different problem.

Removed the back panel in freezer compartment with the nut-driver. Then I cut off old thermostat connections, and spliced in new thermostat connections (repairman had already replaced defrost timer, and said not to trust connectors included on wires-they failed often). Then I snapped thermostat itself onto cooler coil. So far so good, fridge is running at 35-40 degrees a week later. Thanks Parts-Select!!!

I removed the shelves in the freezer, took out the five 1/4" screws and lifted off the cover. It was a simple matter of using a blow drier to remove all the ice, then unplugging the two wires and unclipping the thermostat from the upper cooling tube. Then clipped the new one on and reconnecting the two wires.

Works great!!!

Took off cover, unplugged wires, removed old motor, mounted new motor, remounted new motor and replaced cover.

Now need a new control board for same model.

Loosened the screws all around the door. easier if you take the door off the unit and lay it on a table. Cover the table with a blanket to protect the door finish. Old gasket just pulls loose. Press the raised bead on the new gasket under the plastic strip. Corners were the most difficult. Retighten the the screws and rehang the door. It took some practice to get the bead under the plastic strip.

No repair. The key fit!

Just plug in the part
But it did not work
Tried to call but could not get a hold of anyone to return or buy another

Thanks. ??????