FFU12F2HW8 Frigidaire Freezer - Instructions

The timer in this older unit is clearly exposed at the back of the freezer underneath the freezer compartment. It is attached with two Phillips head screws. After the screws are removed, the timer can be unplugged and the new one plugged in. The new timer has an extra flange to allow it to be used on more than one model of freezer. In order to mount the timer in this unit, you have to remove the extra flange by carefully cutting it away from the timer body, in similar fashion to what's depicted in the online video. This will allow you to mount the new timer to the mounting plate using the two screws from the old timer.

Removed old gasket, then installed new gasket. Make sure to allow new gasket to set out for a few days prior to installing to get all wrinkles out, use a heat gun after installing to make gasket shape to freezer door.

The left swing hinge (297283901) that i needed is not available anywhere so I bought the right swing hinge (297283900), used a hydraulic press to pop out the pin and move it to the other hole. After that it was real quick to remove the screws and change out the hinge, changing the swing of the door. It is easiest to remove the top hinge and door first when doing this.

It went exactly like your on line video. It took longer to defrost the freeze than it did to make the parts change out.

Had to remove all screws on rear back cover of freezer inside, unplugged refridgerator, uncliped thermostat, unpluged thermostat. Replaced thermostat with new one in the same location, and let defrost fulley. Reassembled, pluged in, and tested. All was good. But I did also replace timer at first part of the repair so I suggest you replace both at the same time.

Removed the back panel in freezer compartment with the nut-driver. Then I cut off old thermostat connections, and spliced in new thermostat connections (repairman had already replaced defrost timer, and said not to trust connectors included on wires-they failed often). Then I snapped thermostat itself onto cooler coil. So far so good, fridge is running at 35-40 degrees a week later. Thanks Parts-Select!!!

I removed the shelves in the freezer, took out the five 1/4" screws and lifted off the cover. It was a simple matter of using a blow drier to remove all the ice, then unplugging the two wires and unclipping the thermostat from the upper cooling tube. Then clipped the new one on and reconnecting the two wires.

Works great!!!

Loosen screws, removed old gasket seal, replace with new gasket (nice to use 2 sets of hands) and re screwed. Used hairdryer to heat up and fluff out a spot that wasnt seal all the way. Pretty simplementation to do.

removed the screws/nuts; pulled the back panel off, removed the old thermostat (wires just popped apart) replaced the new thermostat (wires just popped back on) replaced the back panel and the nuts and TaDa!!

First unplug freezer, then disconnected wires from timer.
Removed 2 screws from bracket holding time to freezer.
Attached New part with screws. .The mounting bracket is now part of New time. Reattach wires.
I let coils defrost and then plugged it.

I used the tool at Partselect that in theory allows diagnostic of the problem to be repaired. The result was that more tan 90% of the time with the introduced symptoms it had to be the thermostat. I order the part, got it quickly and installed. It did not fix the problem. So, be careful with the diagnostic tool, because it is just based on what most people buy when they have a particular problem. Videos for installation are great. If diagnosis was better, this would be fantastic. In my case there might be a different problem.

freezer section remove ice trays ,shelves,unplug ice tray.use 1/4 nut driver remove back panel,use hair dryer thaw ice from evap coil ,unplug tstat remove install new one.plug in ice maker,put back panel back on ,ice maker and shelves plug refridgerator back in

Used putty knife to pop out old control board. Which is located on the front of the freezer door. The hard part was determining that this was the problem in the first place. I first replaced the compressor controller and the Run Capacitor. compressor still would not start. when I installed the new control board, it ran perfect.

Took off cover, unplugged wires, removed old motor, mounted new motor, remounted new motor and replaced cover.

Now need a new control board for same model.

Unscrew all the fasteners from the door inner cover from the bottom to top to hold it in position, got rid of the old gasket.

I Cleaned all and install the new gastket into the door inner cover. then reintalled cover to the starting from the top to bottom to hold it in place.

this is a one man job but with two will be easer