GLFH1779GW0 Frigidaire Freezer - Instructions

Removed the inside evaporator coil to do inside solder job, use torch to heat solder joints on the outside drier in order to remove it and install new drier. Soldered Heat exchanger line to drier and 1/4” copper line to compressor. Wrapped with new insulation wrap. Pulled a vacuum on system and then charged with 4.4 ounces of 134a freon. Works like a champ again!

This did not fix the problem. Call a repairman and he cannot come until 9/11. Food is staying frozen. Alarm sounds for awhile and then shuts off for a bit.

It went exactly like your on line video. It took longer to defrost the freeze than it did to make the parts change out.

Pretty simple, take cover off back of freezer to access thermostat, unhook thermostat and replace with new one. It had wire hookups different from original part so had to look up that information. Turned out it did not matter which wire went on which prong.

Turned off water to inlet valve. Unbolted valve from back of unit, disconnect water supply line from valve, disconnected water line to ice maker. Put on new compression ring around water supply line. Pressed ice maker line into new valve, installed valve back on unit, then connected main supply line to valve. Works like a charm.

Used Phillips head screw driver to remove panel to expose old thermostat control. Took picture with phone to use and a guide. Replaced old with new and placed panel back o . Working perfectly! 30 minute max to complete.

I changed the cooling control

The timer in this older unit is clearly exposed at the back of the freezer underneath the freezer compartment. It is attached with two Phillips head screws. After the screws are removed, the timer can be unplugged and the new one plugged in. The new timer has an extra flange to allow it to be used on more than one model of freezer. In order to mount the timer in this unit, you have to remove the extra flange by carefully cutting it away from the timer body, in similar fashion to what's depicted in the online video. This will allow you to mount the new timer to the mounting plate using the two screws from the old timer.

Unplugged the freezer. Located the Run Capacitor (next to the compressor). Removed the wire holding bracket, removed the Run Capacitor from the Start Relay. Installed the NEW Capacitor, re-installed the holding bracket. Plugged the unit in, looking at the display for the proper start-up sequence data. All is good - freezer operating for another 10+ yrs. NOTE: When removing the Run Capacitor, beware the COMPRESSOR could be HOT to the touch.

Easy

Remove Ice container - loosen 2 Phillips screws -unplug electrical plug by squeezing sides- lift old icemaker up off the screws and remove - Plug in the new ice maker - place new icemaker so water inlet goes into new ice maker, slide up over existing screws and slide down - tighten screws and replace ice container

Old one bad, relpaced with a new one.

The part i recieved, from parts select was a larger in circumfrence (<1/4) than the original. However i was not aware of this until after i treid to repair it.

I removed the broken fan from the condenser. This was very sipmle.

When i pluged the refridgerator back in to the outlet the fan tried to start up but soon began to make aloud noise, due to there not being enough clerance.

Unscrewed (loosen) screws lifted unit out unplugged electrical connection. plugged in unit hung on screws tightened screws and had ice in less then 1 hour. Rick

Removed the back panel in freezer compartment with the nut-driver. Then I cut off old thermostat connections, and spliced in new thermostat connections (repairman had already replaced defrost timer, and said not to trust connectors included on wires-they failed often). Then I snapped thermostat itself onto cooler coil. So far so good, fridge is running at 35-40 degrees a week later. Thanks Parts-Select!!!