FFU14FC4AW2 Frigidaire Freezer - Instructions

Removed the back panel in freezer compartment with the nut-driver. Then I cut off old thermostat connections, and spliced in new thermostat connections (repairman had already replaced defrost timer, and said not to trust connectors included on wires-they failed often). Then I snapped thermostat itself onto cooler coil. So far so good, fridge is running at 35-40 degrees a week later. Thanks Parts-Select!!!

removed the screws/nuts; pulled the back panel off, removed the old thermostat (wires just popped apart) replaced the new thermostat (wires just popped back on) replaced the back panel and the nuts and TaDa!!

Had to remove all screws on rear back cover of freezer inside, unplugged refridgerator, uncliped thermostat, unpluged thermostat. Replaced thermostat with new one in the same location, and let defrost fulley. Reassembled, pluged in, and tested. All was good. But I did also replace timer at first part of the repair so I suggest you replace both at the same time.

A little research told me the hum plus no cooling was either the compressor or the relay. I ordered the new relay and put it in but it didn't fix the problem. I ended up having to buy a new fridge, but it was worth the $30 gamble to see if I could fix it on the cheap and it saved me the money a service call would've cost. Pretty easy installation, just in a tight space on my model.

By simply popping off the handle cover the two screws were revealed which attach the handle to the door. New handle fit exactly like the old one. Easy peezzy lemon squeezy.

No repair. The key fit!

The old defrost timer started making a screeching noise (probably bearings going out). The replacement part was a cinch to install. When I initially spoke to a PartsSelect person, they said the part number I gave them was not consistent with my old '94 Tappan Freezer. They were able to still find the proper replacement part number. The video that was on-line helpful also.

Removed pcs. of old handle, replaced new handle, installed handle trim strip. Took less than 5 min. Thanks

freezer section remove ice trays ,shelves,unplug ice tray.use 1/4 nut driver remove back panel,use hair dryer thaw ice from evap coil ,unplug tstat remove install new one.plug in ice maker,put back panel back on ,ice maker and shelves plug refridgerator back in

Could not be easier and I think it took me longer to open the packaging than it did to install. Remove the insert from the face of the old handle and remove the two screws (top & bottom) beneath the insert & discard broken handle (retain original screws). Put original screws through new handle, place in position and drive the screws in. Then snap in the insert panel. (My insert was old & brittle and did crack upon removal, but I had anticipated that and ordered a new insert as well.) Took 5 minutes....but I'm pretty handy and it might take someone else 6 minutes.

Ordered the replacement handle and insert. I replaced the handle in about 10 minutes.

Unscrew all the fasteners from the door inner cover from the bottom to top to hold it in position, got rid of the old gasket.

I Cleaned all and install the new gastket into the door inner cover. then reintalled cover to the starting from the top to bottom to hold it in place.

this is a one man job but with two will be easer

Removed old gasket, then installed new gasket. Make sure to allow new gasket to set out for a few days prior to installing to get all wrinkles out, use a heat gun after installing to make gasket shape to freezer door.

Bought the defrost timer based on PartSelect recommendations, installed it and no change. Apparently the old one was fine but since the refrigerator was in a flood and this part got submerged in water I kept it rather than returning it. I looked at everything closely and realized all the mechanical functions were working properly. Rarely does a condenser coil fail so I decided to look into recharging the coolant. Bought a 1/4 inch bullet valve, a 12oz. can of R-134a and a cheap resealable can adapter with hose, gauge and R22 to R-134a adapters. After a $30. investment Bingo, after one squirt the refrigerator began to cool and after 4oz. it now works better than new. I understand that PartSelect is in the business of selling only their parts but please consider that there can be other simple problems.

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.