PLFH1779GS0 Frigidaire Freezer - Instructions

Pulled the refrigerator out from the wall. Then unplugged it took my nutdriver with a1/4" socket on it and took out the screws from the cardboard back on the bottom of the refrigerator. Then I removed the two screws holding the water valve on. Then I unscrewed the supply water line from the main water inlet valve. Then I removed the outlet waterline going to the ice maker from the water valve. Then I reversed the procedure to put it back together. Hooked up the main water line and turned the water valve on for the water to flow to the valve at first nothing happened had to wait for a couple of hours for everything else to get to the right temperature before the ice maker would start making ice.

took the shelves out, unscrewed the rear panel,unpluged the thermistat and uncliped it from the line.Replaced with new thermistat in the reverse order. Before turning the unit back on,allowed the coils to defrost.All of the process was shown in your vidio that I was able to view while ordering the part. Thank you

Looking on-line at your diagnostic for this problem, I saw the most common part to cause this problem was the start capacitor, so I purchased one & installed it with no positive outcome. I then purchased the next recommended part which was a defrost timer & installed it with no run again. Frustrated, I looked at another diagnostic web site that claimed 90% of the time the problem is caused by the cold control thermostat. I tested mine and it tested bad, so I bought a control elsewhere, since your site did not list a PN for that device. I installed the new control and the freezer started up correctly. Looking at the wiring diagram for these parts, I see the start capacitor and defrost control are downstream of the cold control thermostat, and to my mind should have been the first part recommended for testing versus the parts I bought, so I am somewhat disappointed in the diagnostics on your site, where I spent about $80 for parts that were functional.

Turned thermostat down and freezer began to run. Once it was at desired temp it shut down and did not start again. Turning the thermostat down again caused the freezer to start again. At this point, decided the thermostat was defective.Unplugged the freezer and removed the shelving. Removed the knob from the thermostat. Removed the nine screws that held the back panel in place and pulled the panel forward. Removed the assembly that held the sensing tube in place and removed the sensing tube from it. Depressed the thermostat latch which holds it in the back panel and separated it from the panel. Removed the electrical connections and removed the thermostat assembly from the freezer. Reinstalled the new thermostat in the reverse order.

Removed evap cover from Commercial Refrigerator. Removed mounting screws from Evap motor mount. Replaced evap fan motor. Repositioned. Reinstalled evap cover. Tested . This motor was hard to find locally. Glad I called.

Watched YouTube video. Very easy. Used my cell phone camera in ‘selfie’ mode propped up in the upper right hand corner of freezer to see the 2 hidden screws.

Pull refrigerator from wall and disconnect the water line and unplug the power.

On top of the icemaker, two machine screws hold the icemaker to the side of the refrigerator. You will have to feel around to find the machine screws, but once you do, it is simple to slip the appropriate size socket over the hex heads. I found it helpful to have an extension on the socket wrench. Disconnect the power cable inside the refrigerator (there are little pressure clips on the side that help release the cable) and move it out of the way for the time-being.

Back out both machine screws several turns, but do not remove them completely. The icemaker slips over the screws, so leaving them in the side of the refrigerator makes that process a lot easier. Hand tighten the machine screws once you have positioned the new icemaker in place. One thing to be sure and do is make sure the water line hose coming out of the back of the refrigerator inside is on top of the icemaker. It fits into a slot in the top of the icemaker - failing to do this will result in water pouring into the freezer compartment, not into the icemaker..

Reconnect the power cable to the new icemaker and tuck it up behind the icemaker assembly. Tighten the machine screws completely, but do not over-tighten.

Reconnect the water line on the back of the refrigerator at the wall, and plug in the refrigerator. You should hear the unit fill immediately.

In about an hour you should have ice filling the bin. Enjoy!

Replaced defrost thermostat and defrost timer on my commercial Kelvinator freezer. Took out screws inside freezer compartment that hold panel at top inside freezer.Once the screws were removed I pulled out the thermostat dial so the panel was free to drop down and expose coils to the freezer that were located in the top rear of the inside freezer compartment.The defrost thermostat was located on the top of the coil to the top left as you face the inside of the Kelvinator KFS220RHY1 freezer. Very easy unplug old and plug in new defrost thermostat. Also replaced timer located in the back side of the freezer down near the middle of the bottom of the freezer near the compressor. There were two nuts holding the timer in the back of the freezer once I took those out I just unplugged the old timer and plugged the new timer in ....very simple fix. I have only run my freezer for a week since I replaced both parts but so far all is working well.

Took off old part and installed new part

Removed evaporator cover, unplug 2 wires to thermostat, unclipped it from the coil. Installed new themostat back the same way.

Remove access cover at bottom of case w/socket wrench (4 screws).
Attach supply line to water valve with adjustable wrench. Attach water line to ice maker on back of case (twist lock) no tools required.
Attach water line from ice maker to water valve (push connection) no tools required. Attache water valve to case at bottom w/one screw. (nut driver)
Reassemble access cover to bottom of case w/socket wrench (4 screws). Remove plastic cover inside freezer (w/screw driver to release from evap cover) to expose ice maker harness connection. Remove two plastic plugs (carefully w screw driver) exposing screw anchors for mounting Ice maker. Assemble two mounting screws w/nut driver. (Do not dtrive all the way in) Plug ice maker harness to plug on back of evap cover.(no tools required) Place cover over harness connection) no tools required. Guide water fill tube into fill cup on ice maker. (no tools required) Hang ice maker on mounting screws. Level Ice maker and tighten screws. (torpedo level makes it easy if you have one handy. Place Ice bucket under Ice maker on freezer shelf (lower position). Turn ice maker on and you are ready to go. Easy Job!!!!

I knew from a problem years ago that the Thermostat was the likely cause so I ordered a new part and replaced it. Only need a phillips head screwdriver to remove the part and add the new one..

I removed the shelves, unscrewed the cover panel of the fan motor and regulator dial, disconnected the fan motor from power, unscrewed 2 screws holding the motor to the mounting bracket and put the new motor in it's place. New motor had no thread in the mounting holes, so I put new tread in so I could use the 2 screws. Another option would have been to drill all the way through the mounting holes and use longer screws or bolts. Of course I turned the power off before I started repairs. Freezer runs like new now. Technicians wanted $400 for the job, while it cost me a mere $55 for the Motor.

insatlled ic maker was very eays and fast.how ever not enouh clamps for hose;s in kit in my apinion

I replaced the timer and the defrost thermostat. The defrost thermostat replacement was almost exactly like the training video here. The old part attached slightly differently. The most time consuming part was thawing out the heat exchanger, which was completely covered with ice, inside and out.

Compared to the training video, the timer took more work given its location. It was low to the ground and a bit difficult to get at around the other wires and parts. However, the new part fit perfectly. I just unplugged and unscrewed the old part then reversed those steps with the new one.