FFU20F6BW1 Frigidaire Freezer - Instructions

I unplugged the fridge and unscrewed the back cover,unscrewwd the two screws holding the water valve in place and the water line to the ice maker and the electrical connection and install the new water valve,then buttoned everything back up and plugged the fridge back in and it is working great,making ice as normal.

Turn off ice maker
Slide wire harness shield off connector
Disconnected harness
Loosened 2 wall screws
Remove old ice maker
Installed new one reversing process

Bought the defrost timer based on PartSelect recommendations, installed it and no change. Apparently the old one was fine but since the refrigerator was in a flood and this part got submerged in water I kept it rather than returning it. I looked at everything closely and realized all the mechanical functions were working properly. Rarely does a condenser coil fail so I decided to look into recharging the coolant. Bought a 1/4 inch bullet valve, a 12oz. can of R-134a and a cheap resealable can adapter with hose, gauge and R22 to R-134a adapters. After a $30. investment Bingo, after one squirt the refrigerator began to cool and after 4oz. it now works better than new. I understand that PartSelect is in the business of selling only their parts but please consider that there can be other simple problems.

I removed the two screws and unplugged it. I then attached the pigtail to the appliance, then to the fridge. I had to push the excess wire harness into the hole in the back. It took a few minutes to move the rest of the harness out of the way by curving it upward and securing it with a nylon tie.I ordered the ice maker from Part Select on Sunday night and it arrived at 8:32 Tuesday morning, THANK YOU! I ordered very simple weed cutter parts from Sears a week ago and they haven't even shipped yet!

I removed the old ice maker and unplugged the cable. Screwed in the new one with a 1/4 nut driver at the 2 mounting screws, plugged cable in. Checked ice maker with a small level before final. All Ok and after night I had Ice and it has been working great since.

Removed the old defrost timer by removing 4 screws on the holding bracket. Disconnected the wire harness. Reconnected the wire harness to the new part. Installed the new part with 2 screws on the top of the molded bracket. I am a 67 year old woman... easy-peasy. (the defost timer is located in the bottom left rear of the freezer.

hardest part was to remove deformities using a hair dryer. Working with hand after heating seemed to work but was not quick.
Loosen screws under old gasket. Screws hold gasket lip under the edge of the door liner. Remove old gasket. As door liner was brittle from age, I used silicone caulk across top of door behind flange, set lip of gasket in silicone and tighten screws. Did top and half was down the side, then did the bottom up, taking ank excess gasket and trying to distribute along straight side. Make sure door is plum and square on hinges, then close door. Turned freezer on and allow to cool to see if ice would form, before refilling with food.

The easiest way to replace this gasket is to remove the door from the freezer. Two bolts remove the top hinge and the door pops off. Setting it on sawhorses makes the job easy. In addition, I moved the door into the sunlight which made the gasket flexible and easy to work with.

Remove the screws under the gasket with a phillips screwdriver and lift the inner panel off the door. Clean the area when the gasket sits, put the new gasket in place and replace the inner panel and all the screws.

I found a couple of videos online of a similar product fix to get a lay of the land. When I got the part, I unplugged the unit and turned off the water. It was easy to take off the back panel and remove the old water intake valve to swap it out for the new one. Once I attached everything again I could see that the valve was taking up water but it didnt seem to be going all the way to the icemaker. I gave it some time and by the next day, there was fresh ice!

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.

Turn off power. Remove ice tray. Back out the two screws with nut driver and just lift ice maker off screws. Do not bend the water fill tube in the back . Now unplug the wire and remove ice maker .
To replace, match the color of wires on plug. Adjust wires in place and water fill tube and back on to the screws. Hold in place and snug screws. Turn power back on. In 4 to 5 hours your ice will start .
FED-EX UT to MN was 13 days to deliver .

It was real easy but I still have problem making ice cubs
Fell problem is in the ice maker went it dose make cubs they don,t dump

But I have back ground mechanical skills, I did see the video one time, and everything went smooth......

take the ice bin out of freezer. there are 2- 1/4" screws. these screws only need to be loosened a few turns. the ice maker can be slightly lifted up and will come off the screws. unhook the wire harness. take the "L" bracket off the old ice maker and put on the new one. set the new ice maker in. hook up the wire harness. put the new ice maker over the screws, tuck the wires out of the way and pull down into place. tighten the screws.

Looked it up on how to, follow the video
. Very easy 1-2-3 it was out and new one in..........??.