FFU20FC6CW1 Frigidaire Freezer - Instructions

Unplugged the freezer. Located the Run Capacitor (next to the compressor). Removed the wire holding bracket, removed the Run Capacitor from the Start Relay. Installed the NEW Capacitor, re-installed the holding bracket. Plugged the unit in, looking at the display for the proper start-up sequence data. All is good - freezer operating for another 10+ yrs. NOTE: When removing the Run Capacitor, beware the COMPRESSOR could be HOT to the touch.

The timer in this older unit is clearly exposed at the back of the freezer underneath the freezer compartment. It is attached with two Phillips head screws. After the screws are removed, the timer can be unplugged and the new one plugged in. The new timer has an extra flange to allow it to be used on more than one model of freezer. In order to mount the timer in this unit, you have to remove the extra flange by carefully cutting it away from the timer body, in similar fashion to what's depicted in the online video. This will allow you to mount the new timer to the mounting plate using the two screws from the old timer.

removed old broken part, 3 screws, then installed new part.....done

It went exactly like your on line video. It took longer to defrost the freeze than it did to make the parts change out.

Used Phillips head screw driver to remove panel to expose old thermostat control. Took picture with phone to use and a guide. Replaced old with new and placed panel back o . Working perfectly! 30 minute max to complete.

Remove shelves. Unplug unit. Unscrew back panel. Remove wire harness. Remove old fan. Insert new fan. Screw it in. Reattach wires harness. Plug unit in and make sure fan is on.
Reattach back panel. Put shelves back in.

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

Pretty simple, take cover off back of freezer to access thermostat, unhook thermostat and replace with new one. It had wire hookups different from original part so had to look up that information. Turned out it did not matter which wire went on which prong.

Upon Inspection of electrical connections I found the controller connector slightly melted, so I ordered a replacement and the other parts, given the freeezers age.
Replacement efforts were close to plug and play.
Compressor powered back up And freezer is now functioning again.

easy change less than 10 min

First unplug freezer, then disconnected wires from timer.
Removed 2 screws from bracket holding time to freezer.
Attached New part with screws. .The mounting bracket is now part of New time. Reattach wires.
I let coils defrost and then plugged it.

Had to remove all screws on rear back cover of freezer inside, unplugged refridgerator, uncliped thermostat, unpluged thermostat. Replaced thermostat with new one in the same location, and let defrost fulley. Reassembled, pluged in, and tested. All was good. But I did also replace timer at first part of the repair so I suggest you replace both at the same time.

Removed the basket. Removed the two broken brackets (6 screws). Installed the two new brackets. Put the basket on the track. Done.

I removed the shelves in the freezer, took out the five 1/4" screws and lifted off the cover. It was a simple matter of using a blow drier to remove all the ice, then unplugging the two wires and unclipping the thermostat from the upper cooling tube. Then clipped the new one on and reconnecting the two wires.

Works great!!!

Removed the back panel in freezer compartment with the nut-driver. Then I cut off old thermostat connections, and spliced in new thermostat connections (repairman had already replaced defrost timer, and said not to trust connectors included on wires-they failed often). Then I snapped thermostat itself onto cooler coil. So far so good, fridge is running at 35-40 degrees a week later. Thanks Parts-Select!!!