E32AF75FPS0 Electrolux Freezer - Instructions

Looked it up on how to, follow the video
. Very easy 1-2-3 it was out and new one in..........??.

take the ice bin out of freezer. there are 2- 1/4" screws. these screws only need to be loosened a few turns. the ice maker can be slightly lifted up and will come off the screws. unhook the wire harness. take the "L" bracket off the old ice maker and put on the new one. set the new ice maker in. hook up the wire harness. put the new ice maker over the screws, tuck the wires out of the way and pull down into place. tighten the screws.

I remove the old fan by pushing it off the spindle toward the evaporator and put the new one on by holding it on the right side and guiding it on the spindle from the left side, very easy task

Ice maker is held by 2 screws just above the unit, on the wall of the refrigerator. You can't see the screws, so borrow your wife's makeup mirror. Shine a light into the refrigerator, and using the mirror, locate the two screws, holding the unit in place, on the wall of the refrigerator. Using a nut driver, or socket wrench, with a 1/4 in socket, loosen up the two screws, but don't remove them. Bump the unit upwards, and away from the screws. (BEFORE doing anything!! Shut off the water supply, unplug the refrigerator) When you get the unit freed up, just unplug the old unit, and install the new one. You don't even have to worry about the water lines, and you'll see why, when you get the old unit off. Just reverse the procedure, installing the new unit. Very Simple, 10 to 15 minutes tops.

After pulling the fridge away from the wall and opening the paper backing on the bottom, I could see the motor. It's affixed to 3 metal ribs by 3 small screw/nuts. There is also a 12" wiring harness that led to a simple disconnect. Removing the disconnect and the 3 nuts was easy. However, there was no room to remove the motor with the fan attached. Between frame parts, the drip pan below, the ribs, and small, delicate copper tubing that can't get bent, it wouldn't fit thru any openings. So we rotated the motor inside the framework until the blade faced out, then reached in with a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the washer. Removing the washer is easy, it's just difficult to reach. With the washer off the fan was out of the way and very carefully (it was tight) the motor came out. Reverse was the same issue. Motor tight going in, not a lot of room to maneuver fan onto motor, and needed needle nose to tighten washer again. Make sure you tighten the washer before you install the motor on the prongs. Otherwise you need to remove it from the ribs, twist it to face you, then reinstall it on the prongs. Also, I felt I was stripping the nuts into the new motor. Turns out the holes in the motor aren't tapped. i realized the nuts are self tapping once I looked at them. I'm a big time DIYer and this wasn't bad at all. If your motor/fan assembly comes out whole, it's even easier.

The repair was fast and easy .I removed the ice tray , disconnected the wiring connector and lossend two screws. I removed ice maker assy.and repeated in reverse order to install. I also installed a new water filter. I had ice in about 20 minutes.

Remove ice pan below ice maker. Got mirrow verifed the type of screws. Obtained nut driver and felt it at right angle remove screws only have way. The ice maker lifts up and off. Took needle nose pliers to grip and remove electrical connection plug. The instruction and picture sent was no help the picture were the size of a thumb nail no detail could be determine. I installed the adapter plug and all the extra length wiring was the most difficult to type wrap with both hands extended out in front. I finally wrestled it in on to the two screws unscrewed from the wall about 1/2". Keep the ice maker water lever up and ensure it aligns to the water trough inlet. Works Great.
glg

Unplugged freezer, used digital multimeter to test defrost thermostat, temperature sensor, start/run capacitor and start/run relay for compressor motor. Found ohms values for start/run capacitor to be out of range and carbon traces on relay base where capacitor connects. Replaced capacitor and relay. Plugged freezer in and compressor immediately started running. On mid-range temp setting, empty freezer, temperature alarm light went off in 3 hours. Freezer has been functioning properly since repair was made. My husband is a licensed elevator mechanic with a background in electrical troubleshooting. He tested the components and completed the repairs.

so basically if you can make toast , you can do this repair....loosen 2 hex head screws ,lift up on the ice maker and separate from wall of freezer , unplug the wire harness ,it is now OUT , swap the water level indicator to new part [30 second job ] Install the new part in reverse order as mentioned above... enjoy your ice

Shut off water supply under the sink. Removed old valve and installed new valve. Turned water back on and within a couple hours the first batch of ice made.

Removed shelves ,removed panel on interior back wall with Philips screwdriver ,unplugged wire terminals slid thermostat off coil ,then reversed process to complete installation.

Removed existing part, tested it, found it to be defective. OrderEd a new one and replaced the existing one.

Both end caps were missing on the door side bottom metal shelf. succesfully installed no tools needed

Loosened the 2 bolts 4 turns where it mounts inside the freezer. Lift maker off the bolts unplug 1 plug. Reverse to install.

I removed the two side mount screws with a screwdriver and disconnected the electrical plug to the ice maker to remove it. I reversed the process to install the new one.

It was the thermostat that was the problem, but I chose to replace the entire ice maker for only $25 more.