AFU1567AW (PAFU1567AW0) Amana Freezer - Instructions

the gasket peels back to reveal the approx 20 screwsholding gasket and door shelves. removed these. removed old gasket from door panel. new gasket needs to be stretched to get on door panel. align screw holes in door panel with screw holes in gasket. attached back to freezer door. this gasket did not seal securely when closing door. this gasket was installed on a cold day in a garage and may become more flexible as it warms up.

Disconnect power / Remove shelves / remove sheet metal panel in rear of freezer / disconnect fan wires / remove fan unit using nut driver. / reassemble.

After observing defrost timer go into (and out of), defrost cycle, I checked continuity of heating element. Since heater coil was intact (79 Ohms of resistance), I figured the defrost thermostat (aka bi-metal therm.), had to be at fault. The new part ($17.00), proved my suspicions correct. As I sought to determine if everything worked, I had to wait for the temp. to drop below the defrost therm. set point before I would see the heater coil get hot.
To avoid the costly failure in future, I bought a Chaney wireless therometer with two remote sensors. Sensors require lithium batteries. $30.00 for both are a cheap insurance system.

The defrost circuit is relatively simple. Just three components and interconnecting wiring. Ensure the timer works first, then check the heater element for continuity. Lastly i jumpered around the temp switch to eliminate interconnecting wiring. You can test the switch by cooling it to see if it opens, but some do not open like the one in this particular Whirlpool until they are well below freezing so you’ll need to take that into account in your troubleshooting. Replacing the switch itself is very simple, it’s two wires and it just clips to the heat exchanger in the back of the freezer behind a metal cover.

Ordered the leveling bolts, very fast shipping, parts correct as shown. Purchased a condo by the shore, frige had no levelers, they went in smoothly & was done in no time.
Steve

After viewing a video by Parts Select, I pulled freezer from the wall to gain access to the back where the timer is located. I unplugged the freezer from the wall outlet. I then located the timer and used a screwdriver to turn the plastic screw on timer until it clicked once. I then waited a few minutes to see if heating elements would start working. When I heard water sizzling of the elements, I concluded the timer was bad. I then purchased a new timer from Parts Select and replaced it by removing the 2 screws holding it in place. I unplugged old timer and plugged in the new timer, reinstalling it onto the freezer. My 17 year old freezer is working like new again. Thank you Parts Select for everything.

I tilted the unit back enough to scew the new legs into the threaded holes.

The evaporator fan and the condenser fan were operating, but the compressor was not operating. I removed the terminal cover from the compressor and checked continuity on the overload. I found that it was an open. I removed the overload and installed the new one and the refrigerator is now cooling. I also cleaned the condenser coil. I believe this is what caused the high temperature/high amperage condition, that finally caused the overload to fail.

Just put the two screw back in that i had removed.

I had the best luck using pliers to remove the hex top screws. Once the screws were removed I unplugged the old defrost timer and plugged in the new one. Replaced the screws and the freezer worked when plugged in.