3CSP2760BW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

had to take front off of Dryer then was able to replace drum roller

Disconnect power supply, remove power cord from dryer, remove dryer vent tube from dryer, remove 2 Philips screws from power connection on dryer, remove nuts from back of dryer, remove back of dryer. Locate idler pulley at bottom of unit at the rear of the motor, pull pulley back to loosen belt and remove from pulley, remove pulley retainer clip, remove pulley and rear washer from shaft and inspect shaft for wear or rust. replace washer and pulley (no specific direction to replace them, washer first then pulley). Reverse above procedure to reassemble. This is for a front load dryer, a top load dryer is different.

On this model do not try to remove the back. You must remove the bottom front panel and the lint screen unit. You can then loosen the heat coil assembly and rotate it to get to the high-limit thermostat and the thermal unit. I replaced both because I bought the kit. It actually took me longer to clean out lint than it did to replace the parts. A simple remove of the parts with a 1/4 inch nut driver did the trick. Now my dryer works fine.

we received the two heating element wires in 3 days and connected the heating element with no problem works great.

It is odd that this part needed replacement but I am in an area near the Atlantic ocean in a vacation house which is vacant most of the year. The exhaust vent probably brings excessive moisture down to the dryer in the basement. The screen you can see at the inside back of the tumbler (where the heated air enters) rotten out, pieces fell inside and there was danger of something falling in and catching fire. I found no useful source for information (including YouTube) as this part is most easily replaced from the rear of the dryer and the available info was about repairing the heating element, the circuit board, or the exhaust venting pieces which is done from the front.

The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order

I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.

Removed two screws and lifted the control console then tilted forward the shell. Removed two screws holding the latch cover and assembly then disconnected two wires. I played with the assembly until I discoved the element was toast. Ordered the part but when I got it I was confused because it had three prongs (two on one side and one on the other) when the burnt one had only one and one and I only had 2 disconnect wires. I thought I had gotten the wrong part but figured it out. Actually putting the assembly together was the easy part, trying to get the outer shell back together was a little tough. Between taking it a part, figuring out what was wrong and ordering and receiving the part was about three weeks. So when putting it all together took awhile but I did it and it works great.

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

Took the front part of the dryer out, released tension on the idler pulley, took the drum out, and remove the old drum seal. Make sure you remove the old adhesive with sandpaper or wire brush. Put the new adhesive on the seal, not on the drum. Adhesive is very runny. Seal may need to be stretched to fit the drum. Set the seal on the drum, let sit a few minutes. Put everything back together.

Disconnected Power cord, removed vent pipe, removed back panel, had to slide top cover off to remove additional screw holding back on. Went down to where the Idler Pulley was, removed old piece by depressing on the spring loaded actuator and slid it off the belt and all. Replaced same as removal.

Just like the video, just followed the video
Thanks,

Checked this site for most likely needed parts and ordered. Located full repair manual inside unit after removing lid. Followed instructions in manual to take apart and remove the drum; took pictures at each removal step and used pill organizer to keep screws in correct order and quantity. The metal cylinder in the center of the idler pulley had ground away so the idler pulley with bracket was replaced. (There was a lot of metal dust that had to be cleaned.) One of the rollers did not turn smoothly so that was also replaced. After putting drum back in, reversed the steps to reassemble and referred to photos to make sure did in correct order and did not forget anything.

I removed the bottom access panel, with 2 hands i reached in behind the blower, i released the belt, i used a screwdriver to pop the retainer from the pully spindle, i removed and replaced the pully, i snapped the retainer back on and replaced the belt. I made sure the belt was on track and all was good. I put the bottom panel back on, it took all of 5 minutes. The hardest part was the retainer clip faces the rear of the dryer so you have to feel it. Also , the space is tight, use a smaller flathead screwdriver to get behind the clip, it will pop right off.

Very easy do it yourself repair, and saved at least $300.00. I watched a video and it took me less than 20 minutes to complete repair. Part fit perfect and I have already ordered another to keep as a spare.

Removed the screws replaced the belt and lubricated the wheels and that fixed my Knocking and it runs like when I first got it

There are two screws that hold the switch in place. And two wires connected to the switch. The most difficult part of replacement is to place the new switch and hold it in place to reinstall the mounting screws. The space to work in is limited unless you remove the front panel from the dryer, which I opted not to do.