YWED9500EC0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Disconnected the power and duct from the dryer. Removed the back and top of the dryer by removing the 1/4" screws. Created slack in the belt by compressing the spring and moving the idler arm.Slid the belt off the pulley. Removed the tri-ring clip, slid the old pulley and gasket off. Cleaned and inspected the shaft and vacuumed the inside of the dryer. replaced the gasket, pulley and tri-ring clip. Replaced the top and back of the dryer. Connected duct and power.

Removed the top panel of the dryer via a couple of screws from the rear. Remove the rear panel swing it open light a door to the right, minding the electrical connections. Removed the belt from the pulley, removed the Tri-ring from the shaft and slid the pulley off of the shaft. The shaft was slightly rusted so I used a steel brush and brake cleaner to clean it up, placed the new gasket, pulley, and tri-ring on, replaced the belt, and put the panels back into place. As the dryer is about 7 years old, also removed the front lower panel and cleaned out unit which had quite a bit of accumulated dust and glitter especially in the vent lines. (3 girls live here). Pretty easy, most screws remove with just the one tool.

Took the back dryer cover off and removed the lint cover all from the back of the dryer then replaces the Thermistor (held with 2 screws).

UNPLUG UNIT FIRST!!! Removed back cover. Make sure to note not all screws hold the back cover by closely observing the screw. Take a picture of the belt routing before removing from the idler pulley. Use headlamp or flashlight to light up pulley area. Remove belt from idler pulley by pushing idler assembly towards the right. Use small screwdriver to remove the existing pulley by prying off the existing tri-ring from the back of the pulley. You may have to "feel" the ring since it in facing away from you. Once tri-ring is removed, slide off old pulley and gasket or old second tri-ring. Replace with gasket first, then pulley then tri-ring. Reroute belt. Use picture if needed. Replace back cover.

Remove the back cover from the dryer after unplugging unit from electrical outlet. Remove the belt by moving tension arm. Remove the tension spring (by hand). Remove the idler pulley bracket with a nut driver. Remove the Tri-Star retaining clip with a screw driver. Remove the old idler pulley. Remove old washer... replace with new washer and idler pulley... I could have reused the tri star retaining clip but elected to use new one. Put arm back on, re-hook spring, realign belt, put back cover back on... dry clothes.

Simply slid new idler wheel on then popped thr tri ring on. The belt replacment was the hardest thing which was also easy. I think pulling the dryer away from the wall was the most difficult thing.

My husband changed the idler pulley. It took him 5 min. Thank you sooooooooooo much. Saved us 1000.00 dollars. He wanted to by a new one but investigated the problem on line. He is a handyman and was just being lazy. I ordered the part and he fixed it. I love saving money!!!!!!!!!!!!! And I love my husband!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This was by far so easy the instruction Partselect gave me where right on step by step. a repair man was going to charge 75$ just to come out 9$ from partselect. Thank you very much Mike chaplin

We only had to tilt the dryer enough to be able to screw the leveling leg in place.The only hard part was holding the dryer steady to screw in the leveling foot.

I replace the terminal block, wires , and dryer plug I unscrewed the back of the dryer and basically replace was burnt out. I was about to pay 200.00 to have it done but I looked on youtube and seen how easy it was so I just chose the site to order what I needed to be replace and it arrived quickly and more affordable to do it myself. Thanks I hope the was useful.

Removed the front lower skirt with two 1/4"hex screws. Vaccumed all inner parts exposed. Removed three 1/4" screws holding the blower housing.Memoved the bias thermister again two 1/4" screws. Make sure all inner exaust pipes and rear chimney gas or electric are clean and lint free. Re assemble and test the unit. Install the skirt and make sure the dryer is level Jack, Pa.

flipped THE BREAKER (very important!). Removed the cover on the bottom of the dryer (2 screws), made easier because dryer is stacked on top of washer. Removed the heater box (3 screws). Thermistor located on top of the blower housing (right side). removed old thermistor (2 screws) and unplugged the wires. Plugged the wires into new thermistor, installed the thermistor, replaced the heater box, then tested the dryer. It seemed to work fine. Replaced the cover. It has worked fine ever since.

We did repair by first watching a you tube video, then jumping in an dgoing step by step through the video. While not exactly the same dryer, the steps were in sequence. We thoroughly sleaned out the dryer with the tub out before reassembly. Th eonly slightly tricky part was putting front piece back, but once we mad esure ot align the sides for squareness the dryer went back together smoothly, execpt for one dropped screw. that was fished out through the bottom panel. The dryer runs quietly and we can watch TV with the door open to the laundry room again. I should have done this a long time ago. It started out by sqeaking at startup, then grew worse over time. I recomend anyone with a friend should be able to do this. Now with Cell phone pictures it is even easier to remember where the screw go.

The videos really make it easy. I put my laptop on the washer next to my dryer and proceeded step by step. I also found the video that mentioned about the screws that may come loose on the baffles. I found several loose screws on the baffles which I tightened and I also found the Drum hole plug loose, so I also tightened the plug. Reassembled the unit and has been working like new since.

Disconnect the dryer from the power source and vent hose. Using the nut driver, remove all hex screws and the electric access panel from back of dryer. Loosen the electrical service cable clamp screws with philips screw driver and disconnect the ground wire. Remove the top panel from the dryer cabinet and the screws that hold the electrical bus in place, then remove the back panel from the dryer. Feed the electrical cable through the cable clamp and rest the back of the dryer against the side. Remove the tri-ring and old idler pulley, then clean and lubricate (WD40) the axel, and install the new pulley and tri-ring. Replace the back panel and all screws.