YWED8500DW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Simply slid new idler wheel on then popped thr tri ring on. The belt replacment was the hardest thing which was also easy. I think pulling the dryer away from the wall was the most difficult thing.

followed the you tube video, came apart ok, very bad lint problem. Vacuummed out extensively. Made repairs, very straight forward. Back together ok, still noisy but not as bad. May be the fan.

parts were for a dryer that would not tumble or heat they did not fix problem have called in pro hope he can fix

Dryer was making intermittent squealing noises sometimes it was amazingly loud, sometimes not so bad. Still, I figured this couldn't be good so I wanted to find a fix. Read the stories here and everything pointed to the 'idler pulley', so I figured I'd give it a try. For me, access was the hardest part -- my laundry room is small and I can't easily get the dryer out or move it around. Not a problem with the part, just my own setup. Important to note that this repair is best done through the BACK of the unit, not the front. Once I got access to the back (removing AC and Water used for the 'steam dry feature') I also had to disconnect several of the electrical connectors to get the unit fully apart. Good news -- the actual replacement of the pulley took about 1 minute! It was just all of the moving and disassembly that took so long. The original idler pulley had worked its way off of the shaft and was out of place and causing the squealing. All is well now, and I saved a bunch by doing it myself. No more squealing!

Remove the back cover from the dryer after unplugging unit from electrical outlet. Remove the belt by moving tension arm. Remove the tension spring (by hand). Remove the idler pulley bracket with a nut driver. Remove the Tri-Star retaining clip with a screw driver. Remove the old idler pulley. Remove old washer... replace with new washer and idler pulley... I could have reused the tri star retaining clip but elected to use new one. Put arm back on, re-hook spring, realign belt, put back cover back on... dry clothes.

C/0 both thermostat sensors and fixed dryer Had no heat out ohmed out the coil and it was ok So I ordered both sensors and replaced them and dryer worked great

flipped THE BREAKER (very important!). Removed the cover on the bottom of the dryer (2 screws), made easier because dryer is stacked on top of washer. Removed the heater box (3 screws). Thermistor located on top of the blower housing (right side). removed old thermistor (2 screws) and unplugged the wires. Plugged the wires into new thermistor, installed the thermistor, replaced the heater box, then tested the dryer. It seemed to work fine. Replaced the cover. It has worked fine ever since.

This was by far so easy the instruction Partselect gave me where right on step by step. a repair man was going to charge 75$ just to come out 9$ from partselect. Thank you very much Mike chaplin

I replace the terminal block, wires , and dryer plug I unscrewed the back of the dryer and basically replace was burnt out. I was about to pay 200.00 to have it done but I looked on youtube and seen how easy it was so I just chose the site to order what I needed to be replace and it arrived quickly and more affordable to do it myself. Thanks I hope the was useful.

Ordered the fuse first hoping it was just that simple, watched the video for how to replace, first step was to take the back of the dryer off, well I order to take the back off I had to take off the Electrical Cord, as well as he top of the dryer. Only to find out he part I was replacing was not back there. Found the tech sheet attached within he dryer though, and as it turns out only needed to take he front bottom panel off. Without testing he continuity I was just giving this a shot, the Thermal fuse did no fix it, so I tried the high Limit Thermostat and Fuse kit still no luck. Took out the Element to find I was physically cracked in 2 pieces, replaced that and I was back up and running. And all parts were found in the bottom front panel of the dryer, so beware before you watch the video and take our whole dryer apart like I did.

We only had to tilt the dryer enough to be able to screw the leveling leg in place.The only hard part was holding the dryer steady to screw in the leveling foot.

My husband changed the idler pulley. It took him 5 min. Thank you sooooooooooo much. Saved us 1000.00 dollars. He wanted to by a new one but investigated the problem on line. He is a handyman and was just being lazy. I ordered the part and he fixed it. I love saving money!!!!!!!!!!!!! And I love my husband!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

First i did some research on the internet approx.1yr ago.Just in case any problems like this or any other kind of problems should arise which it did.The whole thing is Easy all you have to have is some basic knoledge of how things work.All of this came "OFF" in (4) sections.After installing everything back it was as "Quiet"as the day we purchased it.Good for another 5yrs.Retired welder & "J.O.A.T.Julian San Antonio,Texas

The repair went great . Thanks for the part ,will be purchasing parts from you now on.

We did repair by first watching a you tube video, then jumping in an dgoing step by step through the video. While not exactly the same dryer, the steps were in sequence. We thoroughly sleaned out the dryer with the tub out before reassembly. Th eonly slightly tricky part was putting front piece back, but once we mad esure ot align the sides for squareness the dryer went back together smoothly, execpt for one dropped screw. that was fished out through the bottom panel. The dryer runs quietly and we can watch TV with the door open to the laundry room again. I should have done this a long time ago. It started out by sqeaking at startup, then grew worse over time. I recomend anyone with a friend should be able to do this. Now with Cell phone pictures it is even easier to remember where the screw go.