YMEDB855DW1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Removed the lower front cover of the dryer. Removed the lint filter and removed the cover from the air duct by removing two 1/4" bolts. Removed the two 1/4" bolts retaining the thermistor. Installed the new thermistor and covers.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Removed rear cover (6 screws) unpluged harness from motor control and removed same. Replaced motor control reinstalled harness. Replaced rear cover. Parts used motor control board.

After removing the back & top of the dryer,I determined the noise was coming the idler pulley.I went online w/ model # & found Partselect.com.I ordered the dryer repair kit (at my door in 3 days) which included all the rollers,idler pulley, belt & hardware.It was an easy job to do even tho instructions were for top control panel model (mine is a whirlpool duet- front control) I did try using silicone lubricant on idler pulley, which worked to quiet dryer for a couple days so my wife could use it while I was waing for parts.Two thumbs up to Partselect.com,I will be purchasing all my appliance repair parts from them..I own all whirlpool stainless steel appliances that have been very reliable,but it's nice to know I have Partselect to fix problems as needed.

Took off front bottom panel reached in removed part that was very dusty. Put in new part. Cleaned out lint inside dryer. Works like a charm.

The videos really make it easy. I put my laptop on the washer next to my dryer and proceeded step by step. I also found the video that mentioned about the screws that may come loose on the baffles. I found several loose screws on the baffles which I tightened and I also found the Drum hole plug loose, so I also tightened the plug. Reassembled the unit and has been working like new since.

diognostic suggested thermal fuse or thermistor. Thermistor tested low resistance (<2K olms). Replaced thermistor and dryer heat returned.

Disconnect the dryer from the power source and vent hose. Using the nut driver, remove all hex screws and the electric access panel from back of dryer. Loosen the electrical service cable clamp screws with philips screw driver and disconnect the ground wire. Remove the top panel from the dryer cabinet and the screws that hold the electrical bus in place, then remove the back panel from the dryer. Feed the electrical cable through the cable clamp and rest the back of the dryer against the side. Remove the tri-ring and old idler pulley, then clean and lubricate (WD40) the axel, and install the new pulley and tri-ring. Replace the back panel and all screws.

My husband changed the part but part select was very helpful. With their free repair help site it made repairing a breeze! We will use parts select again and again. I did order all the parts we might have needed and only needed one. Now I will return the others.

First i did some research on the internet approx.1yr ago.Just in case any problems like this or any other kind of problems should arise which it did.The whole thing is Easy all you have to have is some basic knoledge of how things work.All of this came "OFF" in (4) sections.After installing everything back it was as "Quiet"as the day we purchased it.Good for another 5yrs.Retired welder & "J.O.A.T.Julian San Antonio,Texas

Replaced with parts orded worked fine for2 hours and quit heating again

Using some advice here on this website, and a youtube video found by searching for 'idler pulley replacement' I was able to fix my dryer! Taking off the screws was simple, I used a cordless drill. I have some trouble removing the kick panel, and bent the latches, so there is a small gap between the dryer door panel and the kick panel, but it still works fine. Of note, you DO NOT need to remove the back panel, something I did and cost me some time. I am a bigger guy, so maneuvering on the floor to rig the dryer belt around the new idler pulley "in the dark" was cumbersome, but doable. All in all, an easy enough project for under $30 and less than an hour of my time. Kudos to this website, first, for the super fast shipping, and secondly, the reviewers who posted some instruction. Great job!

Our dryer got so loud after running for a few minutes that you couldn't even have a conversation in the same room. After researching for possible causes, I decided to go with new drum wheels. I purchased the Dryer Repair Kit to save a little money and it gave me a new belt and tension wheel as well (since I was going to have it apart anyways). After taking everything apart and vacuuming out all the lint from inside, I noticed that the blower wheel was broken. No idea how that happens but something must have gotten in there and broke 2-3 fins and cracked the rear side. I replaced the parts that came with the kit and proceeded to put it all back together. Started it up and it was worse than before. Quickly ordered the new blower wheel and that fixed the problem. Back to a "quiet" dryer. I probably didn't need the Kit after all, but the drum wheels were a little worn and I had it apart anyway.

The tear down on the dryer was more difficult than the instructions and internet showed due to different models used. The kit was not identical to the original parts but close enough to work (I think). The biggest issue we had was getting the drum back in and placed on the wheels where it would turn easily. Overall the repair came together but it was a bit more involved and we anticipated going into the project. The actual noises were caused by the disintegration of the tensioner wheel which broke and was wobbling on the axel.

Watched steve on the video on changing the thermistor a couple times, it appeared to be straight forward replacement. Unplugged the dryer. . . Went through the front, my lent filter slides in and out from the lid so I had too remove two extra screws to detach it. After opening up the front it became very apparent my thermistor was not located in the same location as the one in the video. Dryer needed a cleaning (lint/dust) so I released the idler pully tension on the drum belt and went ahead and removed the drum/belt and shop vac/ blew with compressed air and shop vac once again. Gave my dryer a much needed cleaning since I had it apart. Put everything back together in about 20 mins. Pulled the dryer away from the wall and removed rear cover and presto there it was right next to the dryer air outlet. Replaced thermistor and replaced back cover, inspected out flex hose on dryer outlet, I clean it out (flex) yearly to prevent problems. Reattached flex on both ends, re-positioned dryer, plugged back in, and works great! Definitely fixed my problem. . . Replacing the drum by myself was a bit difficult. Still do able (there's a video on that also. . )