YMED8100DW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

this was a super easy job! i unplugged the dryer, removed the back panel, located the fuse on the bottom left side, replaced it, put the panel back on, plugged it back in and IT WORKED! this was the first appliance repair job for me and i am so glad i found this site. it probably saved me $100.00 or so doing it myself. thank you!!!

I watched the video several times before beginning, which was very helpful. As I didn't have the tool that was recommended in the video, I used pliers, which although took longer, worked out fine. I also used pliers to pull the wires off of the old thermal fuse. My dryer had been not working for 2 months, so I was very pleased that I was able to watch a very detailed video, order the parts on the same website, and receive them very quickly (within couple of days.) My daughter who lives in another state googled my dryer model number with a description of the problem and found your website. She sent me the link of the video to watch as it appeared very easy to understand. She and I both were very impressed by the step-by-step instructions on the video, including a list of all the tools required. I am an 81 year old woman and had no problems fixing this by myself with the assistance of your website. I have recommended this site to several of many friends and family members. Thank you!

Determined via multimeter that either the thermostat or thermal fuse were not working, so ordered the kit (best value, contains both parts).Easiest access is from the rear, so removed rear panel and top of dryer (required) and also the vent tube since it was in the way. Unhooked wires from both parts, used socket to remove nuts holding each one on, put new ones in place, re-attached wires. Replaced vent tube, vacuumed entire inside of dryer (good idea). Put back/top back on and the dryer worked/heated perfectly immediately.

Message indicated something amiss in the motor circuit. Followed Instructions in the on-board manual. Turned out to be the internal-bias thermostat, and the exhaust air thermistor both. Changed faulty parts, cleaned lint from the system and we are off and running again.
Thank You.
DW Pranger

I made sure air vent was clear and clean. I removed front panel of dryer unit, located fuse, removed wires, tested fuse with ohm meter, which was defective. Tested new fuse placed back in dryer reattached wires. Cleaned out inside of dryer, replaced front panel. Now works like new.

I took off the back panel off the dryer. The idler pulley could be accessed on the bottom. It was a bit cramped but not too tough to replace.

There was no heat but the dryer would operate properly in all other functions. I checked the ignitor (gas dryer) with a meter and it was okay. I traced the circut back and ended up at the thermal fuse and it was "open" I jumped it out and the dryer started to work. I knew the problem was the thermal fuse but more importantly why did it blow. Further investigation showed excessive lint in the duct. Needed to take the exhaust system apart and clean out the lint. also replaced the flexible dryer (too difficult to clean) and to make sure that I didn't over work the high/low thermostat and would be doing this repair again in the near future I replaced that also. Be careful and do not jump out the fuse and use the dryer as this will cause a fire. I did it to prove the problem only... Dryer works well again and we will probably get another 5 years out of it!

Al
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I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

The repair, replacing the thernal fuse was easy, just one screw and then remove and replace by disconnecting and reconnecting two wires. It did take a bit of time to find which part was defective. I first removed the back panel and front panel and the drum to get at the igniter and flame window. I checked continuity of these parts as well as the gas solenoids and they all checked out ok. The thermal fuse was last on my list. It read as an open circuit. I temporarily jumpered the two wires at the fuse and checked that the igniter would now heat up. I spent over one hour removing the ductwork and giving the unit a thorough cleaning with a shop vac.

Unplugged dryer from electrical outlet. Removed top panel from dryer to get instructions for location of parts. Removed front panel to get to fuse and thermostat. Had to purchase small socket wrench to access nuts because of small space and angle of difficulty. Removed both parts, and replaced with new parts. Plugged dryer back in. Tested for heat. Working properly.

There were two tricky parts - one, was locating the part to repair on the dryer. One set of instructions said it was on the back of the dryer behind the panel. Once I removed that panel I realized that the thermal fuse was on the front. After I identified where the part was (bottom front), the second tricky part was getting to the screw. You just need a mini-socket set and relatively small hands. A magnetic light that can attach to the dryer while you are working is also useful. This would have been a 30-45 minute job had I known precisely where the part was that needed replacing. Otherwise, this was relatively easy.

An online help site lead me to believe the problem was the gas igniter. After ordering that and installing it I discovered that wasn't the problem. I took a look at the schematic which is in the electrical compartment and found that there is more than one thermal breaker. I found the other one, ordered and installed the part and had it running within 30 minutes. I had to access the back of the unit, remove the back cover with a socket wrench, unscrew the thermal breaker and re-install the new one with no special tools.

My wife and I thought our dryer was done and we were looking at a large replacement costs. We started googling and found this site and watched the video. We are were 99% sure it was the thermal fuse. We received within 2 days and thought we would be in there for over an hour. Turned it was less than 10 minutes, we watched the video clip on how to install on our laptop as we did it.

We will always be buying parts from this site and have told a ton of friends/family to check this site out.

It saved us so much money!!!!

watched a you tube video followed the diagnostic tree found fuse was bad used a ohm meter to confirm ordered part installed new part works like a charm the wife wanted to know how to do it and worked with me

Lubricated pulley wheel which temporary reduced noise. This verified what was making noise. Looked up the part on partselect.com and ordered it. Recieved idler pulley with bracket in just a few days.
Quickly removed back panel using nut driver with drill. Slipped belt off pulley, removed one screw with plyers to released spring and removed old assembly.
Inserted new assembly, connected spring, slipped belt back on roller.
Tested before replacing back panel.
All was very quiet. Replaced back panel.
All done