YMED7100DW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Lucy from CHADDS FORD, PA
- Parts Used:
- WP3387223
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Hard to reach the screws inside the dryer They were on the door side of the dryer and hard to reach, especially if you are a abig guy.
Removed the dryer door, unscrewed lint vent.
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- Customer:
- Manny from ODESSA, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP3392519
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Dryer would not start!
Unplug unit first.
Took the front cover off the front of dryer below the door.
Took the front cover off the front of dryer below the door.
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- Customer:
- Tammy from JACKSONVILLE, FL
- Parts Used:
- W11758174
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The screen in the lint filter was broken
Since it was a dryer filter, it just had to be put in the dryer. Works GREAT!!
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- Customer:
- Jason from Colorado Springs, CO
- Parts Used:
- WP3387223
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
not drying completely on the automatic settings
Not a handyman but this was an easy and cheap fix. Now the automatic settings are working and drying much faster. Unplug machine, front panel has 2 spring clips toward the edges that you stick a flat tool into and pull on the panel to open. Pull off the electrical connections from the old sensors by the right side of the lint screen. Needlenose pliers help with the one farther up there. Then just pull the old ones sensors out, stick the new ones in, reconnect the electrical and get ready to live the good life with dry clothes that don't smell musty.
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- Customer:
- Annde from JEFFERSON CTY, TN
- Parts Used:
- W10837240
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Dryer was very loud and sounded like it was scraping
Took the back and top off of my front loader. I had checked on you tube for the problem and how to fix it and ordered the part. Just followed the directions on how to remove the old idle pulley and installing the new one. Dryer runs like new!
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- Customer:
- Thomas from TULELAKE, CA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10314173
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
dryer making noise. order parts
YOU NEVER SENT ME THE PARTS!!!
I had to drive to a parts store to find them. On January 17, 2024, I tried to call you when the parts did not arrive and your recording said there were no reps available and you hung up. WE CANNOT GET HELP TO CANCEL THIS ORDER. We have been going in circles with PartSelect and shipping. SO, how do I get my refund of the $107.26 for the parts that I never received!!
I had to drive to a parts store to find them. On January 17, 2024, I tried to call you when the parts did not arrive and your recording said there were no reps available and you hung up. WE CANNOT GET HELP TO CANCEL THIS ORDER. We have been going in circles with PartSelect and shipping. SO, how do I get my refund of the $107.26 for the parts that I never received!!
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- Customer:
- robert from ELMA, WA
- Parts Used:
- 279640
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Squeaky dryer
Ezee pezee lemon squeezee.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from WEST PALM BCH, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10837240
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer squealing loudly during operation
Unplug dryer from 220VAC outlet
Remove bottom cover panel, slip a flat blade screwdriver into each clamp, and bottom piece becomes removable. Pull forward and lift bottom cover piece.
Pull up top section from dryer frame. Disconnect dryer door off/on contact three wire switch by pressing plastic connector together. You may need a small flat blade screwdriver to seperate connector.
Remove two Torx (T15 head) screws in the far left and right corners of the front door panel.
Remove two screws underneath dryer lint screen, be careful to not let front door and front cover fall forward. The rotating dryer drum will now be loose.
Underneath drum, there is a cover panel over the dryer motor. Likely you will find a bunch of lint all about. This dryer had likely not been cleaned in many years.
Remove screws on dryer motor cover.
Remove panel. Likely, you’ll more lint about.
After vacuuming, use a flashlight and hand mirror to locate belt tensioner, back side of motor. If your belt is not broken, press down on the tensioner spring and remove belt from tensioner and motor. Inspect belt, replace if worn. In this instance the belt was well worn.
Slowly pull dryer drum forward, walking belt along as you bring drum forward out of the dryer casing.
At this point you have plenty of room to access the one bolt holding the tensioner, in this instance it was a 13mm socket. Be careful to remove the tensioner springs before removing the bracket. Your PartsSelect is an identical match to the original one.
Install new tensioner, tighten slightly, then put springs back on.
Reverse this entire process to get your dryer back together and back running smooth and quiet as it was when new.
This dryer was quieter than its owners remembered it being back when new 15 years ago.
Well worth saving the $ doing your own work.
Good luck on your repair endeavor!
Remove bottom cover panel, slip a flat blade screwdriver into each clamp, and bottom piece becomes removable. Pull forward and lift bottom cover piece.
Pull up top section from dryer frame. Disconnect dryer door off/on contact three wire switch by pressing plastic connector together. You may need a small flat blade screwdriver to seperate connector.
Remove two Torx (T15 head) screws in the far left and right corners of the front door panel.
Remove two screws underneath dryer lint screen, be careful to not let front door and front cover fall forward. The rotating dryer drum will now be loose.
Underneath drum, there is a cover panel over the dryer motor. Likely you will find a bunch of lint all about. This dryer had likely not been cleaned in many years.
Remove screws on dryer motor cover.
Remove panel. Likely, you’ll more lint about.
After vacuuming, use a flashlight and hand mirror to locate belt tensioner, back side of motor. If your belt is not broken, press down on the tensioner spring and remove belt from tensioner and motor. Inspect belt, replace if worn. In this instance the belt was well worn.
Slowly pull dryer drum forward, walking belt along as you bring drum forward out of the dryer casing.
At this point you have plenty of room to access the one bolt holding the tensioner, in this instance it was a 13mm socket. Be careful to remove the tensioner springs before removing the bracket. Your PartsSelect is an identical match to the original one.
Install new tensioner, tighten slightly, then put springs back on.
Reverse this entire process to get your dryer back together and back running smooth and quiet as it was when new.
This dryer was quieter than its owners remembered it being back when new 15 years ago.
Well worth saving the $ doing your own work.
Good luck on your repair endeavor!
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- Customer:
- MONA from SHAMROCK, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP3392519
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer would not start.
I watched the video or I would have likley just called a repair man. It took longer to clean behind the dryer than to install the new thermal fuse. After taking the back off the dryer is was as simple as changing a fuse. Dryer works like new for about $20 bucks and we avoided the hasle of getting a repair man, especially since we live in the country. Thanks for having a web site that is so easy to use and full of good information.
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- Customer:
- Dwayne from Bainbridge, PA
- Parts Used:
- WP8577274
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set
Dryer would shut off mid way through cycle and give an E1 error code
After turning off the power to the dryer I removed two screws to the bottom front panel and droped it out of the way. I remved three screws hloding the lint screen in place just for better axcess to the element. I then removed the two wires attached to the element and then the two screws holding the element in place. I put everything back together in reverse. I also took the time to clean any dust and lint out.
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- Customer:
- Mike from New Windsor, MD
- Parts Used:
- WP3392519
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer did not start.
Removed Back and found schematic. Found fuses on schamatic and parts inside dryer. Checked fuses and thermal fuses with an ohm meter and found one that was open. Went to Parts select and ordered part. Relpaced the part and dryer works like new.
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- Customer:
- Candido from GREENVILLE, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP8577274
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer won't start.Only make a click noise.
Remove top,front and panels.change thermal fuse and outlet thermistor.
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- Customer:
- Wayne from Winthrop, NY
- Parts Used:
- WP3392519
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Dryer would not operate
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Performed current check to determine possible problem-then Able to go on line with partselect, extremely easy part description and selection, ordered, part arrived next day. Could not have went any better
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- Customer:
- Timothy from Anderson, IN
- Parts Used:
- WP3392519
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer would not start / failed to run.
My dryer would not start or turn. I first moved the timer to midway between start and end of a cycle and could hear the timer ticking, likely eliminating the timer as the culprit. I next opened the door, manually pressed the door-closure switch and pressed START to see if the heating coil was heating without the drum turning to see if it might be a motor issue. After no heat, I unplugged the dryer and removed the vent hose by loosening the clamp and then removed the lower back cover using a socket and ratchet. Using a multimeter, I quickly found an open thermal fuse. I tested the remaining components to see if they also required replacement (coil, thermostat, high temp sensor) - all tested good. Took a chance and ordered the fuse alone instead of also purchasing replacement thermostat as many advise - if you have not replaced in a while, probably worth doing now. I have replaced mine within a year or two and chalked up the issue to my kids not clearing the vent, so I went without the new thermostat. Model number was found by opening the lid - parts arrived incredibly fast especially for being around the holidays. Replaced the fuse with ease - there is a notch in one end that holds the non-screw end in place so it's flush. Plugged the dryer back in, selected a cycle and confirmed the dryer started and heated as normal. I then had my son open the dryer door to confirm the drum stopped turning. HERE'S WHERE IT TAKES A TWIST: When the door was open, the heating coil continued to glow red hot (faulty timer??) I moved selector to end of cycle and the glow stopped. (timer's good) I then moved the selector mid-way between cycles with the dryer door open and WITHOUT PRESSING START and the coil again glowed red. Disconnected power, disconnected coil and using multimeter, checked from coil input to case ground (any bare metal) and found one side of the coil to be grounded. I was able to removed the heating coil and locate where the coil was touching the case. I shifted the coil back into place, checked with meter (no ground this time), reinstalled and tested with no problems. Reinstalled the back plate and vent hose. Finally, had conversation with the kiddos about being gentle when moving the dryer and all was well. The thermal fuse portion took 15 minutes from diagnosis to replacement. The overall process (due to the additional grounded heating coil) took 30-60. With any repair like this, I usually recommend visually verifying the heat cycles on and off by carefully running with the door open and holding the switch. This will help you determine if you may have an additional faulty part that made the first one fail. (Most likely, thermostat).
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The blower wheel had fractured due to ingesting some metal objects (previous owner)
Followed instructions for standard blower wheel replacement and repair kit installation, which were straight forward. The only real issue I ran into was removing the blower wheel, The instructions say to turn it clockwise and remove it, however this wheel had been on there for a long time and it also has a taper shoulder so it was not coming off without a fight which is why the dremel tool is listed. I had to cut the old bower wheel out in pieces so I could remove the electric motor, which was easy. Once out and on the bench and only the metal hub left on the shaft a 7/16" wrench and large vise-grips got it to break loose. The good side of this is it allowed me to blow out any lint that had built up on the motor, like new again.
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