MEDP575GW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

The repair was really easy and I loved the DIY videos they were great, not many tools needed to do these repairs that was great. The only thing is this didn't solve my issue.

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

Watched videos on line on how to repair. Replaced all four Drum Rollers, Belt and Idler Pulley, cleaned out inside of unit.

Watched instructions, Ordered the kit and repair was fairly easy until the time to line up the cover over the fan wheel. That was difficult part. Would be best to have two people at this point to hold it and align the screw holes. Otherwise its was a fairly easy operation.

Just like the video, just followed the video
Thanks,

I simply removed the rear panal of the dryer. Removed the two wires from the fuse at the rear of the dryer. Attached an OEM meter across the two fuse connections and had no continuity. Ordered a new fuse and recieved it in 2.5 days.Replaced the fuse,reconnected the wires and replaced the rear panal. Started dryer and it now blows hot air and runs like new. I can't say enough about PartSelect. Great diagnosis using their website, the delivery was fast and I recieved the correct part at a good price. Very satisfied, Thanks PartSelect. Fred F

take off front bottom panel. use ohm tester on the heater coil element, (It had broken in back) remove screw holding it in place and the two red wires leading to the element. Pull out and replace. reinstall in reverse. Done

Watched Video - very helpful in repair Maytag Dryer working like new now Thanks for your guidance in my repair

I did what any novice would have done. I took the entire thing apart to get to the gas jet. I did not know about the thermal fuse until I got to the schematic behind the timer and controls. I was a tech back in the 70's and 80's and only worked on electric dryers. Back then I would remove the heater core and twist the coils together to save money. So I had no idea how a gas dryer heating unit worked. So now any one that reads this. You do not have to take the dryer completely apart, I did that for all of you. Just replace the thermal fuse on the back of the unit by unplugging that wires and removing the screws! It looks like a long white piece of plastic with 2 wires to it. You will find this under the full metal shield on the back of the unit. This should be about a 1 hour repair at the most!

After replacing many, many parts the dryer still does not work! Replaced Thermo Fuse, Thermostate, Cycling Thermostat, Coils, Ingition Sensor and Ignitor. Ran meters across all incoming power, timer control, ignitor power, etc. all check out according to schematic. Incoming gas supply is functioning. So, 6 parts recommended later still same problem. On the good side, all parts were shipped out very quickly. Highly impressed with service.

Replaced dryer timer with a new one. Was really easy to replace. Just had to remove timer knob and back cover to get to timer. Then removed all wiring harnesses from the timer and unscrewed the two screws that holds it in place. Installation of new timer was in reverse order. Tested new timer and it solved the problem.

Need to access back of dryer so you probably have to take exhaust hose loose as I did b/c mine was aluminum foil flex type. Was an oppt'y to clean it but fiddly when reinstalling. Since the control panel is tilted slightly back for ease of use, I tilted the whole dryer forward to get better access to timer mounting screws. Very easy install. Even though there are a lot of wires, they are grouped into 4 molded connectors which are all different shapes, so you can't get it wrong. You might have to pry a little to get them off and I suppose you could break the connectors if you are too rough. There is a fifth separate small connector with 2 black wires and that one is hard to release. You have to press a release tab down and fiddle a bit.
As you face the cabinet from the back do note the timer's left mounting screw also shares holding an L-shaped bracket to secure the buzzer, and if you reinstall putting the buzzer bracket first you will not be allowing the timer to rest flush with the back of the control panel. So I installed the right screw back first which held the timer tight enough to then line up buzzer bracket with left screw hole in timer. Also note when seating the timer in place there are two protruding dimple things on the front which fit into two holes drilled in the dryer to be sure timer is properly oriented up and down so that it looks right when put back together with writing around knob pointer.

I Picked up the two front corners up, after removing the 2 screws from the vent and the 2 screws that hold the door switch in place, then I disconnected the old switch and put in the new one. Just the opposite of how I took it apart. Very simple and it works great!! Thanks

1.Removed lower dryer cover - two screws. 2.Tested heating element circuit including high temp cutoff, - Heating element circuit was "open" so I first tested the heating element - "open" so I removed one screw on the side and removed the element - element broken. 3.Ordered the part - good price and the deliver was great, three days. 4. Cleaned any lint up and Installed the new heating element and front panel 5. Heated right up - probably saved myself a good $100 for less than thirty minutes of work!!!!

I watched the video or I would have likley just called a repair man. It took longer to clean behind the dryer than to install the new thermal fuse. After taking the back off the dryer is was as simple as changing a fuse. Dryer works like new for about $20 bucks and we avoided the hasle of getting a repair man, especially since we live in the country. Thanks for having a web site that is so easy to use and full of good information.