7MWED90HEFW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Took the back and top off of my front loader. I had checked on you tube for the problem and how to fix it and ordered the part. Just followed the directions on how to remove the old idle pulley and installing the new one. Dryer runs like new!

replaced heating element

Just like the video, just followed the video
Thanks,

It is odd that this part needed replacement but I am in an area near the Atlantic ocean in a vacation house which is vacant most of the year. The exhaust vent probably brings excessive moisture down to the dryer in the basement. The screen you can see at the inside back of the tumbler (where the heated air enters) rotten out, pieces fell inside and there was danger of something falling in and catching fire. I found no useful source for information (including YouTube) as this part is most easily replaced from the rear of the dryer and the available info was about repairing the heating element, the circuit board, or the exhaust venting pieces which is done from the front.

The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order

I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.

So I was unable to get my model number so I took the hinge off the washer and was able to order the part. Before removing the hinge I used a marker and marked the hinge location on the washer. Once I got the part I removed the T15 screws on the inside part of the door and separate the pieces. I was able to remove the white tube for all 4 of the pins and put them on the hinge. I installed the hinge an then i put the front door pieces back together again while it was laying on the floor. I though I put it in wrong but I was correct. Once i had the hinge on the door and the door reassembled, I was able to attached the hinge to the washer. The hinge comes off the washer by pushing up on it and to reinstall you push down. I tighten the 4 T25 screws using the marks on the washer and the door is alligned correctly. I am able to close the washer door with one finger instead of my whole hand.

Removed the screws replaced the belt and lubricated the wheels and that fixed my Knocking and it runs like when I first got it

Ezee pezee lemon squeezee.

I removed all the panels, removed the tub, replaced the pulley, put the tub back in and replaced the panels. Just when I screwed the Last screw in the doorbell rang with the door switch which I installed immediately.

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

Removed two hex screws from upper back clips. Removed 2 Phillips screws under lint trap. Used flat head screwdriver to pry up top on front right and left side clips. (FYI: top pry's up off retaining clips in front). Remove two hex screws on right and left front panel. Un-plugged wire harness front right side. Lifted up and removed front panel. This hold the drum in place. Simply removed drum, installed new belt, replaced the two drum wheels and put everything back together the same way I took it apart. 30 Minute project :)

How to repair E1 error/fault on Whirlpool Duet dryer model GEW9200LW0 please watch that video very helpful.

sounded like a pair of shoes was in the tub every time i started it no matter what size the load was. Replaced the back two rollers first and decided to start it to see how it sounded. We were glad. Only the back rollers were bad and the dryer was quietly running again. We would suggest replacing the back rollers first to everyone because the front rollers are more complicated to replace and they may not have to be at all.

Replaced 4 wheels and new belt

After turning off the power to the dryer I removed two screws to the bottom front panel and droped it out of the way. I remved three screws hloding the lint screen in place just for better axcess to the element. I then removed the two wires attached to the element and then the two screws holding the element in place. I put everything back together in reverse. I also took the time to clean any dust and lint out.

Doing my home work, I was told if I was "handy with my hands" I could do the work. Start to finish required 3+ hours. The instructions were not specific to my unit therefore, I had to "guess". My first surprise was encountered on step 2 - removing the top. My top was attached to the "brains" of the drier and therefore could not be removed. I actually had to disconnect the brains to remove the top. My second surprise was that I had to remove just about everything before I could get to the vent, which by the way, was simple. I finally accomplished the task, but....