7MWGD1850EI0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

I lifted the top of the dryer and removed the front panel. I removed the drum exposing the drum rollers. I replaced the rollers and reassembled the dryer. The exploded views on the web site made it easy to see what to do.

The dryer quit working. I did some trouble shooting on your amazing site, ordered what i thought it might need and then got to work. Took no time to get it apart and replace roller kit and belt. What took the longest was getting in there and cleaning out probably 15 years worth of dirt and dust. If you have not opened your dryer up and done this, 10/10 recommend, because in doing so i found that the motor was the real culprit. Once i opened it up more, especially cleaning around the blower fan and motor, i was half a day in. Put it all back together and got it running for two more loads before the motor quit. Replaced that and since the hard work was done, had it back in in half an hour and running great. Probably will need to redo the felt seal one day, but for now, i am calling it a win. This is my go to site for all things and i have been able to work on most of my major appliances and do it myself using the helpful information here.

Just popped it into place needing no tools at all. Took less than a minute.

Braced dryer drum with a block. Removed the two rollers one at a time by using a screwdriver to pop off the triangular clip. Slid on new rollers. Would have been easier to remove the drum out the front instead of bracing it. Installed new idler pulley and belt. Dryer is 25 years old and sounds like a new one now when running.

Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.

Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.

removed the catch and the pin and replaced it. We were sent a couple different sizes so we tested the one that looked like the closest match. I think the pin was made with different thicknesses of metal. Worked great and saved us from having to get a new dryer!

Well, here's the rub...in order to find out what part I needed to order, I needed to take the dryer apart to where the gas controls are, and there on a sticker was a part number for an LP conversion kit. But, in order to get to that gas valve unit, I fumbled about figuring out how to take this brand new dryer apart, since there were absolutely no instructions whatsoever in the owners manual. And once apart, and pretty much all apart, I wondered how it would be that the Maytag repair man would be so lonely, as he'd have plenty to do.
However, the kit had great instructions as to how to take it apart and change out the orifices.

Followed instructions, except to advoid sharp edges, and completed the job in under an hour.

Replaced the thermastat first, then the cutoff switch, still the same, I then replaced the thermister, and still have the problem.

Half of my pulley was broken off so there were no wrench flats to take it off. I was able to remove it using Channel Locks and the 7/16 wrench shown in the video.

Hint: Use a one gallon ice cream bucket to hold up the drum while connecting the belt. It makes it much easier and gives you more clearance.

Once I started using a bunch of clothespins to hold the felt in place and then started gluing small sections at a time I was able to complete the task. The glue comes out of the tube very quickly so don't squeeze it a lot.

First, I unplugged the dyer and then I removed all of the screws for the panel that covers the rear of the dryer. This exposed the cycling thermostat's location. I then removed the wires, one at a time so I would be able to put them back on in the same place. Then I removed the one screw using a nut driver and then put the new cycling thermostat in place. It was pretty easy.

This was so much easier than I though it was going to be. Pulled up on the top part of the dryer and folded it over to the back. Removed 2 screws for the front panel and disconnected some wires. Laying down I fed the new belt on and made sure the tensioner was put back into the right spot, because when the belt broke the tensioner sprung to the other end of its travel. Put everything back together. This was made super easy because you guys had the parts and the shipping was super fast. Alot of the local shops in the area didnt even carry the belt or were not helpful..

I disassembled the dryer once to clean the motor and compartment. After reasembly, the problem persistes. I ordered the motor and the second diasasssembly was accomplished in 10 minutes and the entire job took 45 minutes and the dryer was running like new. Tip- Leave the motor secured while removing the blower fan.

Just follow the instructions the one was provided with Maitanace kit we bought from you.