LDR3822DQ3 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

I pried open the top of the dryer, removed the 2 scrws holding the front cover of the dryer, un hooked the dryer drum buide belt, removed the dryer drum - all this just to get to the drum support roller. The bottom roller - the rubber on the wheel had been "chewed of". I can only guess because too much weight was placed in the dryer with wet clothes.
I removed the triangle shaped retaining clip, using the mini flat head screw-driver, slid the damaged roller off, replaced the new roller, and installed the new retaining clip. To install the new clip, I used a 1/2inch nut driver. I did the same to replace the upper drum support roller. The actual repair took less than 5 minutes, However, the prep time in dismanteling the dryer in order to get to the drumm rollers and puting the dryer back to gether consumed the bulk of my time.

I squeezed the latch catch with a pair of pliers and pushed it in the catch hole. But that was the final repair. There were two "repairs" before that. First, we used two commercial grade rolls of wide plastic tape to tape the dryer door shut each time we used it, for a year, until we ran out of tape. Second, we positioned a chest of drawers in front of the dryer and wedged a 1" x 4" against the door. Very effective. Then I broke down and ordered the $3 catch.

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

all that was required was to push the catch into the slot notools needed.

Easy for a 87 year old.I just snapped the cover to the filter basket and then inserted the whole basket into the

Unplug electrical
remove 2 screws from lent screen handle
remove lent screen
using putty knife, insert about 2" from each side at the front of the dryer just below the top cover to release 2 keepers.
pull up on cabinet top and lean top backwards out of the way.
remove 2 screws holding the switch located at the top right inside of the dryer door.
pinch the plastic keeper while pushing down to release wiring assembly from dryer cabinet
using a small blade screwdriver, disconnect wiring connection
discard old assembly
reverse all steps to replace with new door switch

The numbers on the metal plates were the JC Penney numbers - that no one recognizes. I eventually found the model number inside the timer case on a printed schematic. I started by disassembling whatever metal covers were removable by finding sheet metal screws and unscrewing them. If you pull on the sheet metal covers, you can find where they are connected to the frame. Eventually, I found that both the heating element was broken and the thermostat was fried. It took a while looking at various websites to find the proper parts. It's all OK now.

just like the guy in the video. It was easy to folow his instructions, and the best thing of all i could stop the video if I had a question and then resume!

I watched a U Tube video about banging sound from dryer. Once I recognized the problem, lifted the top, removed 2 screws holding the front, removed the drum, and bingo. Saw the worn out drum roller. Ordered the replacement parts from "PartSelect" on line (Great Company). Was in no hurry, so I chose regular mail delivery. 4 days later, got the correct replacement parts, put the dryer back together, and now, the dryer is quieter then when I bought it new, a thousand years ago. I will never again be afraid to tackle an appliance issue. THANK YOU !!!

Had to replace the rear felt seal and the motor. It was no problem to find videos on how to do both of these repairs. Took apart the appliance. When the parts came first replaced the drum rear felt seal and waited for the motor to be delivered. Then replaced the motor as per online instructions. Also went to Home Depot to buy a new flexible dryer tube since the old one had a few holes. It works perfectly again.

First unplug appliance, Remove dryer top and front. remove drum and belt. Two clamps hold motor in place. remove them and lint chute housing in rear, exposing the fan. Use vice grips to hold motor shaft behind belt pulley flat spot. Remove fan, it's reverse threads. A large adjustable wrench on plastic fan nut and spray lubricant if very tight. Place new motor next to old and switch wires over, crimp on new 1/8'' connectors. Remember the green ground wire may need an allen wrench. Put back drum,belt, lube the rollers and replace back cover, front, top.

I followed the on-line video. I am extremely happy I made the effort and successfully fixed my dryer on my own. It sure beats a new dryer expense or high repair cost.

First unplug unit to avoid shock. Using a flap blade screwdriver lift the front corners of the top. Unplug the switch located on the right side in the front. Remove two screws holding the switch in place. Remove old switch and reverse to install new switch. Entire project took less than 10 minutes. Oh yes the wife was so happy she made me a dish of fudge brownies. :)

I follow the instructions from the video you guys show the only issue is putting back the tensioner in place but my brother leaves next door and help me.

I remove the lint trap and the two screws that held the top down. Next to unscrew the two screws that holds the door switch. I prized the top up with a screwdriver . I unplugged the door switch and plugged in the new one. I inserted the switch into the door and replace the screws. I snapped the top back into place and replace the screws in the lint trap. I close the door and turn the dryer on and it worked. I followed the directions you provided on line. They were very easy to follow.