LDR3822DZ3 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Well turned off power by unplugging it. Took a Phillips screwdriver and took the 2 screws out from vent and then took a flat head and left up each side to access the inside of dryer. Then used screwdriver to take out screws to switch and then disconnect the power cord to that. Reverse the procedure and it was so simple. Ty. Awesome company.

replaced internal dryer filter housing

I remove the lint trap and the two screws that held the top down. Next to unscrew the two screws that holds the door switch. I prized the top up with a screwdriver . I unplugged the door switch and plugged in the new one. I inserted the switch into the door and replace the screws. I snapped the top back into place and replace the screws in the lint trap. I close the door and turn the dryer on and it worked. I followed the directions you provided on line. They were very easy to follow.

Jimmied out the latch using two screw drivers to get under the edges. Pushed the new piece in. Voila! Took 2 minutes for what my repair man told me would cost about $200 to fix. Unbelievable!!( I first watched some YouTube videos to get the idea )

First unplug unit to avoid shock. Using a flap blade screwdriver lift the front corners of the top. Unplug the switch located on the right side in the front. Remove two screws holding the switch in place. Remove old switch and reverse to install new switch. Entire project took less than 10 minutes. Oh yes the wife was so happy she made me a dish of fudge brownies. :)

Hi, I am a working mom, and my dryer quit just after it had been behaving strangely. At first, it kept spinning after the door was opened. It eventually stopped working, and I assumed that the door switch must be the culprit. I purchased the part from the catalogue, and watched the installation video. Repair: After unplugging the dryer and removing the lint screen, I used a philips head screwdriver to loosen and remove the two screws located at the lint trap. I then inserted a flat screwdriver into the area between the top of the dryer casing and the face. Per the video, at approx. 2 inches in from the left and right side. I did this while gently applying pressure from the back of the dryer top to the front. This loosens the clips allowing the top to be lifted back and out of the way. I then opened the dryer door and commenced loosening and removing the two screws that hold the dryer switch in place. I used my screwdriver to gently separate the wiring harness connection, as it also has a clip to keep the connection tight. With these items free, I simply popped the little black thingy back through the hole (The black thingy just keeps the slack in the wiring from sagging, I think). With the old part removed, I then installed the new part accordingly. I reversed my way back out of the process respectively. I plugged her back in, and turned her on. Back in business.

First and foremost turn power off to dryer at main box. Next remove screws say lint filter, then gently pry right and left front corners up with putty knife. Raise top and secure. Disconnect switch wire by using flathead sliding in between connection. Next remove 2 screws under front opening to dislodge switch. Repeat process in reverse order...takes 30 min. tops...

Replaced roller. Very simple. Dryer is the easiest appliance to repair. Only a few parts keep a dryer working

unplugged power, slide unit away from wall, removed bottom front cover, rear sheetmetal cover, tilted front of unit to remove roller outboard support (sheetmetal screw from bottom of dryer). Removed shaft bolt from rear of dryer which released roller assembly. Remove speed nut from old roller assembly to remove outboard support arm, mounted new roller to new shaft placed triangle clips (one each side of roller), mounted outboard support to front of new shaft and completed re-assembly (reverse order of disaasembly).

lifted top section of dryer
removed front dryer panel
removed drum belt and tensioner
removed both drum rollers
cleaned both roller axles
installed new rollers
reassembled remainder of dryer
if you are at all mechanically inclined, it is a simple job

Disassembled dryer, removed tumbler, replaced drum support rollers

After identfying that the problem was due to a damaged drum support roller, I decided to replace the bad roller instead of replacing the dyer itself.

The first thing was to remove the front cover
and the front panels to expose the drum. (Only a few screws hold them in place.) Next, the drum was removed by first releasing the belt from the motor pulley and tensioner, and then pulling the drum straight out.

At this point the two rollers would be exposed. The triangular plastic retaining locks were removed by slightly prying them off. The old rollers were then removed and replaced.

Before putting everything back, this was a good time to vacuum all the accumulated lint inside, especially the lint that had accumulated around the motor assembly and the fire box.

(A pleasant surprise: I found a lot of coins inside the unit, enough to recoup half of what I spent for the new rollers.)

From the front, taped part in place and then assembled springs and insulator from the rear. Difficulty occurred with access to the back of the sensor due to the air duct interference. The sharp edges of the sheet metal parts increases the risk of cuts. First shipment was missing the second electrode but Part Select immediately replaced the shipment. My experience has to be considered Excellent and I would go to Part Select first for my next order.

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

Removed the drum then removed the old parts and installed the new ones. Dryer now runs very quite and heats good. You have very fast service my mother ordered the parts on the net one day and I received the parts next day and did the repair that night and dried clothes. Thanks,

Your great service is very hard to find.