WGD97HEDU1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Disconnect gas line and vent hose,removed top and back covers to install belt.

Followed online video very easy and dryer works like new one....

I followed the very informative video and wrote down step-by-step notes for myself. The repair went very smoothly. The only thing I didn't realize, was that the dryer has 4 rollers, not just 2 shown in the video. All are easy to access once you disassemble. I had to do it twice since I had to order 2 more rollers in order to replace them all. Also, the triangle plastic washers come with the roller, so you won't need to order them separately like I did. I also changed the idler pulley roller while I was in there since that has bearings too. Just as easy. I'm very happy with my quiet dryer! One last note: The new rollers are a bit louder than normal at first, but they quiet down very quickly as you use the dryer. It must be because they are brand new.

I changed the belt, tension pully and rollers. Runs like new now. I also took the opportunity to clean it out real good while I had it apart.

We had to pop open the top. Unscrew front of dryer from sides. Disconnecting the wires was a bit more difficult than expected. We had to use a tiny screwdriver to slide into the sides of the white wire connector on each side before pulling apart. Front drum falls when front of dryer is removed. It took two of us to reassemble - one to hold the drum while the other put the front on. Our problem turned out to be one wheel. We replaced both wheels and saved the rest of the parts. Hums along just fine.

I researched causes of the noise, zeroed it down to the idler pulley. I then got the dryer schematic and took the dryer apart after disconnecting the power and the vent. i did not have to remove the drum, the idler pulley was easily accessible once the top and back panels were removed. I simply removed the drive belt from tension off the pulley, removed the old pulley and installed the new one. Once finished the dryer was running whisper quiet.

Unplugged the Dryer first. Removed the two screws from the bottom panel using a 1/4 socket and removed the panel by pulling down and out. Reached behind the blower and removed the connectors from the old thermistor and then the thermistor itself by removing the two 1/4 inch hex head screws. Replaced with new part and after screwing back in, reconnected the wires and replaced the panel. From start to finish, it took me about 20 minutes.

I use the manentance kit that was not the problem. I end buying the drive motor and that was it. I was happy with the service I got from part select, overnight mail what more could I ask for? I am also glad I replace everthing with mainentance kit. Thank you for your help john degnan

Took the two screws holding the lint trap to top. Used a putty knife to loose the clips holding the top of the dryer up so it could be hindged up for access. Used a nut driver to remove the four screws hold the front door on. Removed the lower dust panel, just clips holding in on. Pull the dryer drum out along with the broken belt and old belt tensioner. Took shop vac and cleaned lint and removed about $2.00 of loose change from the base. Installed the new drum supper wheels. Held belt around drum to put back in. Looped the belt through tensioner and around motor drive pulley as shown in instructions. Put front door on only to find the felt around the door had slipped making the drum hard to turn. Pulled the door back off and laid the dryer on it's back before putting the door back on , so you can run your hand around the door to make sure the felt go inside the drum. Put the four screws back in the door panel before uprighting the dryer. Sucess the drum turned freely. Put other remaining panel and srews in lint trap . Hook the dryer back up to vent, power and gas, and turned on the dryer. Runs like new!

Followed the included instructions in the Maintenance kit. Very easy to understand & follow. Only advice is to have an extra set of hands to assist in re-installing drum w/ the new belt. Entire disassembly & reassembly could be done w/ basic hand tools but went alot quicker using a cordless drill w/ a set of nut/screw driver bits.

I first tried replacing the Radiant Flame Sensor, which was located in a tight space and was very difficult to access. I finally gave up and called a handyman to replace it. That didn't fix my problem. I needed a new igniter. That was easy to replace, but it's fragile and I broke the first one...

It was a lot easier then I thought. Just watch the tutorial of how to fix it on this website and you wont have a problem.

Pretty much followed your great video: . Watching it gave me the confidence that I could accomplish the job myself.

The hardest part was figuring out how to access the dryer mechanism. This Amana dryer has a lower front panel that is removed and not the top. There are few instructions available for this configuration. Then the part locations do not resemble the video instructions for trouble shooting. I discovered the broken part because when fiddling with the wire connections the metal tab disconnected due to fatigue or corrosion. Removing, identifying and replacing the flame sensor was quite simple. The dryer now works as before. The dryer is 23 years old. The most time in this repair was spent figuring out how to disassemble and identify a different configuration than in the videos.

Message indicated something amiss in the motor circuit. Followed Instructions in the on-board manual. Turned out to be the internal-bias thermostat, and the exhaust air thermistor both. Changed faulty parts, cleaned lint from the system and we are off and running again.
Thank You.
DW Pranger