WGD8500DC0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Replaced 4 wheels and new belt

Checked fuse with Volmeter, had continuity (acted as a short) not the problem. Disconnected Hot Surface Igniter 2 Position connector to check resistance for a range of 50-300 Ohms of resistance with Voltohm Meter. Meter read open (High Resistance). Removed Igniter by unscrewing 5/16" hex nut on igniter plate assembly and noticed silicon carbide element was cracked in the middle. Ordered a new igniter and noticed assembly was required. Be careful here as igniter element is fragile, also do not touch it with your bare hands. You have to lay down on floor to reinstall igniter assembly and you might want to practice anchoring the defective igniter to gain confidence. Finally with slow movements anchored new igniter assembly and turned on dryer. Watched igniter glow heating gas valve and heating gas flame returned. Dryer fixed for a few hours of study online and cost only $24, plus learned how the gas dryer works.

How to repair E1 error/fault on Whirlpool Duet dryer model GEW9200LW0 please watch that video very helpful.

After turning off the power to the dryer I removed two screws to the bottom front panel and droped it out of the way. I remved three screws hloding the lint screen in place just for better axcess to the element. I then removed the two wires attached to the element and then the two screws holding the element in place. I put everything back together in reverse. I also took the time to clean any dust and lint out.

Simply followed the video that accompanied the part confirmation. Removed the top and front of the dryer. Removed the drum and belt. Unbolted (1 bolt) the Idler pulley and bracket and bolted on the new one. Reversed the sequence of disassembly and tried it out. The only minor difficulty was slipping the belt over the idler pulley after the drum was in place. This is where a second set of hands might be helpful to hold up the drum, while the other person puts the belt in place. Other than that, this was a simple repair and probably saved a couple hundred dollars for about 1.5 hours of my time. Thanks for the video...it was right on point, and made the job much easier.

Really an easy fix. 2 5/16" screws hold the cover on below the dryer door. From here it's easy access to the gas element. 2 more screws for the valve cover and disconnected the attached wires to the gas coil valves. slip the news ones in place, re-attach the wires and install the holder.Tested the dryer and it fired right up. Put panel back in place and the wife is happy it didn't cost us more than just the parts. Yep, she's a lucky girl. ;0)

As many of the other posts here on this website mentioned, I had the same problem of the dryer not heating up. I removed the front panel (4 screws on each side inside of door - easy - followed instructions) and once off I was able to view the igniter glowing properly so I knew the starter/igniter was not the issue. Everything I read then suggested that it must be the two terminal gas valve coil, and sure enough it was. Ordered part -- got it in literally a couple days -- removed bracket (two screws) put in new coil -- turned it on -- works great. Could not have been easier. This is a great website and would recommend it to everyone who is a Do It Yourselfer.

Remove top,front and panels.change thermal fuse and outlet thermistor.

i read some of previous customer problems and fixes pulled the front cover off found coil's location when i turned on drier you could see the ignitor getv hot but burner would not ignite unless i put a little pressure on secondary coil when i let go of coil flame would go out. ordered 'M' series new style coil kit came in in about three days installed parts drier workng good i would reuse parts select agian thanks

I had two dryers, one was gas and the other was electric. The electric stopped heating. So I rolled out the gas dryer, but it was setup for natural gas and at this location, I only have propane. So I changed the jets to work with propane, in the process I broke the igniter, so I replaced that and that made the propane one work. Armed with the knowledge from that job, I took the electric dryer apart located the thermostat and replaced that and low and behold I have two working dryers. One for now and one for an emergency. I only have four screws left over!!!! Jim Cooke

Found on your site the top two causes of a Dryer not getting hot enough and ordered those parts ( which were delivered quickly).Removed the top two screws that hold the front of the dryer that gives access to the coils and flame sensor assembly after lifting up the top.It took more time to clean up all the lint than to replace the parts.Dryer works great!

The repair went well, using the whirlpool repair manual and looking at the video from PartSelect. The machine was a bit different than the one in both the video and the manual but that did not cause any problems. The only tricky part was to reinstall the belt "blind" behind the motor, easy to pinch your fingers and also get scratched by the sheet metal edges. To make it easier for that part I supported the drum with the old belt and a bungee cord to the garage frame so I did not have to hold it up and work under it at the same time. When the drum and new belt were in place I just cut the old belt, it was going to the trash anyway.. I replaced the belt and the tension pulley, witch was not turning easy and worn by the belt. I also put some grease ( SUPER-LUBE, www.super-lube.com) on all pulleys. It took about 2 hours because I am 78 years old and have heart problems.

I replaced the thermos fuse, thermostat, igniter kit, and the M series
new style coil kit. The problem was the M series coil kit. I replaced
the other parts because this dryer is over 10 years old. I also brought
the radiant flame sensor. I spent $126.19 in parts plus shipping. If I just
just replaced the coil kit it would have 18.61 plus shipping. A new gas dryer like I have would cost about $459.00. I hope to get many more years out of this dryer. The hardest part of this repair for me was getting the front panel back on. I saved the parts that were good for futher repairs. I replaced the drum belt several years ago, still looks in good shape. I think this is a great DIY site. Just follow their instrutions. Somtimes I'll take a picture of the part before I remove it, just to be sure I replace it right.

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.

Followed instructions for standard blower wheel replacement and repair kit installation, which were straight forward. The only real issue I ran into was removing the blower wheel, The instructions say to turn it clockwise and remove it, however this wheel had been on there for a long time and it also has a taper shoulder so it was not coming off without a fight which is why the dremel tool is listed. I had to cut the old bower wheel out in pieces so I could remove the electric motor, which was easy. Once out and on the bench and only the metal hub left on the shaft a 7/16" wrench and large vise-grips got it to break loose. The good side of this is it allowed me to blow out any lint that had built up on the motor, like new again.