CED9150GW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Replaced all 4 sensors. Still no display. Ran my thumb across all control buttons several times. Machine showed life. Looking good, but low heat. Replaced the heating coil, and now we have a new, 13 year old machine.

Replaced Thermal fuse, hardest part was getting behind the drier to disconnect the gas & vent line.

I remove the back panel then look for thermal fuse.. so easy to replace.. thank you so much ..

I googled the problem and determined that the thermistor was faulty. I found your web site from which I ordered the replacement part. The part arrived within a week. The replacement was not particularly difficult, but the space was very tight (without removing more panels and covers). I just kept at it and got it installed and the dryer works fine now. There are several pertinent videos on you tube, none of which were my particular model, but the combination of them led me to a successful installation.

Attempt to start dryer normally. Turn timer dial to high heat setting. Press the Push To Start button. Verify plug is secure in wall outlet. Got to breaker panel to verify breaker is not tripped. (Sometimes breaker may trip but visually appear no to be tripped). Reset breaker to maker sure breaker is in the on position. Attempt to start dryer normally. If dryer did not start proceed. Get a multimeter. Remove plug from wall outlet. Slide dryer from wall. Remove exhaust duct from bottom of dyer. Use multimeter to check voltage at wall outlet. Verify 120 to ground and 208 between hot legs. Remove rear cover if main dryer unit and rear of control unit. Connect the multimeter to rear of control panel rear of push button. Turn meter to ohm setting. Push the start button to see if there is continuity. Release the button to verify no continuity. Next major part of curcuit is the thermal fuse. Look on lower left area of dryer. With multimeter in Ohm mode place the leads on the light blue wires. If no continuity replace thermal fuse

NOTE: Please make sure the dryer is un-plugged any time you are reaching into the access panel with your hands or a tool. There are exposed connections everywhere. After using the diagnostic testing instructions (usually attached to the inside of the front panel) I determined it was a faulty Thermal Fuse. The PartSelect video instructs you to take half the dryer apart to access the Thermal Fuse, but I found it easy enough to just access it with the front panel removed. I used a small 1/4" drive socket to remove the single hex head sheet metal screw holding the Thermal Fuse in place. I then slid the 2 wires off, noting which went to which lug. Installed the new thermal fuse and after starting the screw by hand, tightening with the small socket wrench. It is a bit tricky to reconnect the wires as you are doing it all by feel, but it's a lot easier than taking half the dryer apart. Also, make sure you check the exhaust path for obstructions, that might be why the ThermalFuse blew in the first place.

Message indicated something amiss in the motor circuit. Followed Instructions in the on-board manual. Turned out to be the internal-bias thermostat, and the exhaust air thermistor both. Changed faulty parts, cleaned lint from the system and we are off and running again.
Thank You.
DW Pranger

Dryer works - thanks to a new fuse. Glad I tried this before just buying a new one. Video for my model indicated the fuse was located in the back and actually it was difficult to get to in the front. So extra time was wasted trying to get to fuse in the back. Thank you for the part!

I made sure air vent was clear and clean. I removed front panel of dryer unit, located fuse, removed wires, tested fuse with ohm meter, which was defective. Tested new fuse placed back in dryer reattached wires. Cleaned out inside of dryer, replaced front panel. Now works like new.

Removed the old screen and simply put in the new one

There was no heat but the dryer would operate properly in all other functions. I checked the ignitor (gas dryer) with a meter and it was okay. I traced the circut back and ended up at the thermal fuse and it was "open" I jumped it out and the dryer started to work. I knew the problem was the thermal fuse but more importantly why did it blow. Further investigation showed excessive lint in the duct. Needed to take the exhaust system apart and clean out the lint. also replaced the flexible dryer (too difficult to clean) and to make sure that I didn't over work the high/low thermostat and would be doing this repair again in the near future I replaced that also. Be careful and do not jump out the fuse and use the dryer as this will cause a fire. I did it to prove the problem only... Dryer works well again and we will probably get another 5 years out of it!

Al
hrguy@comcast.net

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

Determined via multimeter that either the thermostat or thermal fuse were not working, so ordered the kit (best value, contains both parts).Easiest access is from the rear, so removed rear panel and top of dryer (required) and also the vent tube since it was in the way. Unhooked wires from both parts, used socket to remove nuts holding each one on, put new ones in place, re-attached wires. Replaced vent tube, vacuumed entire inside of dryer (good idea). Put back/top back on and the dryer worked/heated perfectly immediately.

Had to call service company to come and do the repair and they had the correct parts. PARTSELECT is a very terrible company to do business with. They sent incorrect parts and will not answer the phone or respond to emails after two weeks. will report to BBB.

An online help site lead me to believe the problem was the gas igniter. After ordering that and installing it I discovered that wasn't the problem. I took a look at the schematic which is in the electrical compartment and found that there is more than one thermal breaker. I found the other one, ordered and installed the part and had it running within 30 minutes. I had to access the back of the unit, remove the back cover with a socket wrench, unscrew the thermal breaker and re-install the new one with no special tools.