7MMGDC410BW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Checked four thermocouples all showed continuity with my multimeter so they were all good. I'd read that the coils commonly went out and that these were the symptoms. Hey, it's very simple in there. Not much else could be wrong. I had a Maytag repairman come out. At first he said the problem was a blocked vent. I knew he was wrong. Then he said one of the thermocouples went out. It was $80 for him to come out. It turned out that his second diagnosis was wrong too. To repair the dryer by Maytag would have cost me $240. I gave him $80 and bought the coils for $37. They are EXTREMELY easy to replace: two screws held a bracket that held two coils. With the bracket off, I took off the old coils and slid on the new ones.

Getting to any of the parts in the Maytag dryer is easy. Tip the dryer back and slide a 4 x 4 block under the front edge. You remove the whole front panel after you remove two screws at the bottom corners of the front panel. You need to tip the dryer back to get a screwdriver on the screws. Swing the front panel up to release the top of the door panel from the top. Watch the short wires to the door switch. Unhook the door switch wires and move the front panel out of the way. The timer on the top is accessed by re-moving two screws along the top edge. There are four screws. Remove them all and tip the top of the front panel forward. You then see that two screws hold the panel and the other two screws just hold the trim.

The dryer started normal. The drum motor run when the start button was operated. The fluff cycle operated normal to indicate the timer motor was OK. On the dry cycles, the igniter heated up. The gas came on. The dryer run for some period of time and then the flame went off. The thought was that the low temp cycle thermostat sensed the dryer was hot and thus switched over to time the cycle to its end. However, the low temp cycle thermostat tested good with a meter when the sensor was removed from the dryer and heated with a light bulb. Burnt contacts in the sensor were a possible problem. I also though the radiant sensor may be bad and not recycling after it got hot. After time, the igniter would cycle on but the gas flame would not come on. I thought the radiant heater might not be tripping the secondary coil on the gas valve. The gas valve coils tested good. I was checking them cold after the dryer had cooled down. I ordered a number of parts.

I got lucky and did a test on the coils while the dryer was still hot. One of the coils in the dual booster holding coil was going open when hot. When cold it had enough continuity to let the gas valve cycle on once. After the coil got warm it went open and shut the gas valve off. When the coil did cool off, it again had continuity. I was about ready to trash the dryer when I finely found the problem. I am happy I persisted and worked the problem through to a solution. I purchased several extra sensors but saved money in the long-run. I rate this problem at the high end of complexity for the do-it your self home owner to solve. The problem was an easy fix once the real problem was found. Only 4 screws and 3 push on wire connectors (two were on the front panel for the door switch).

Just follow the instructions the one was provided with Maitanace kit we bought from you.

Both my husband and I are not good at DIY or fixing things. I watched the instruction video that was posted on the PartSelect web site. It seems easy to do it, however still very skeptical. My husband decided that there is nothing to lose in trying, so we ordered the parts. It is as easy and simple as the video instruction. We are very happy customers.

I disassembled the dryer once to clean the motor and compartment. After reasembly, the problem persistes. I ordered the motor and the second diasasssembly was accomplished in 10 minutes and the entire job took 45 minutes and the dryer was running like new. Tip- Leave the motor secured while removing the blower fan.

Used the screwdriver pressed the blade against the edge of the door catch and popped it out. Put the new door catch in place and pressed it and it snapped into place. Done

Removed the plastic guard. Snapped the catch in place and replaced the guard

I order a new belt and I watched the video instructions on how to replace it, follow the instructions, removed the top and took out the dryer tumbler or can, found a broken idler pulley, order a new one, got it in about two days, replaced all the parts and now its working like a new dryer, I called several repair shops and I got estimates from $65 to $150, I spend less than $35 and it took me about 35 minutes to install and I got it fixed..

I suspected a faulty igniter and disconnected the cable to the igniter and measured the resistance of the igniter and found it to be 70 ohms then I checked the voltage at the same cable towards the power source and found it to be 25 volts ac which should be 120 volts ac. Next I checked the radiant flame sensor and found it to be open (it should be a closed circuit when cold). I removed the flame sensor (with the power off) using a small box wrench and found a broken lead. Replacing the flame sensor solved the problem.

Unplugged washer,removed the two screws by the lint trap,moved the top foward lifted the top (it'shinged in the back )the switch is right inside the door top right hand corner removed the two screws that hold the switch in place used a flatblade screwdriver to seperate the connections pulled off the old installed the new switch put every thing back together worked as though it wes never broken

removed front of dryer located igniter removed two screws disconnected wires then put new one in also replace thermal fuse and thermostat on back of dryer works great.

I was reluctant to call a repair service. Typically when an appliance is as old as my dryer (14 years old), service people encourage you to replace, not repair. I had replaced the dryer's motor within the last 5 years and believed my dryer still had life to it. At first, I tried cleaning the lint build up from the dryer cavity and hoses. This worked but only for a couple of days. After reading other successful repair stories on the website, I decided to try replacing the thermal fuse. It was so easy. The part was easily identifiable. It was just a little hard to yank off the connecting wires. Good as new and no service call.

Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!

Solution: electric motor replacement as the integral centrifugal switch lever (plastic cam) wears over time causing the start windings' switch poor contact. Took it all apart, (back panel, front and top) including lifting the drum out to completely expose the motor. Needed to wrench the plastic fan from the inside motor shaft. Tricky part was swapping the original pulley (6 rib belt, still good) for the one supplied for 4 rib belts. I needed to file another flat onto the other side of both motor shafts (old and new) to break them free, using a vice to secure the pulleys. The dryer works perfectly! It's a great dryer that can be repaired by a determined novice. The enclosed instructions were helpful, although if followed about cutting the original motor shaft to obtain its pulley might require drilling the shaft from the pulley = nonsense. Thanks again Parts Select.

The cycling thermostat was found to be not working when I checked it with a ohm meter. I ordered the part waited and installed it and it work just fine.