WED85HEFC0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

I ordered the dryer repair kit and to my surprise it arrived 4 days early. I followed the video instructions on the parts select website to replace 4 rollers, belt and belt pulley. A 1/4 in nut driver attached to my Dewalt drill made life ALOT easier!! My recommendation, when you remove the rollers, take a rag and really clean up the shaft they ride on. Then apply a lightweight spray oil to the shafts. When you install the new rollers they will spin free and easy. Having the dryer apart is also a great time to break out the dust buster of vacuum. Spin the fan motor up front by hand and use vacuum to remove lint or belt shaving from inside the cabinet. Add this step as good fire prevention measure.

I tried to follow directions followed by others on this site after diagnosing the problem via suggestions provided by users. I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer from 2002. We've had problems since moving about 3 years ago. I removed the front panel (lower) by unscrewing the two bottom screws (1/4" sheet metal screws). Then I took out the lint screen and the metal tube/contraption immediately beneath to get access to the area where thermistor is located. See the drawing/chart to help you locate this. It's really easier than it seems. Make sure you have the chart/drawing for your model - it makes difference! The thermistor came out pretty easily with a nutdriver that has a swivel offset shaft. Ask your hardware store tool dept. about that one. Put everything back in reverse order of course and test either with/without the front panel re-attached. In my case it fixed at least part of the problem. I was able to get clothes almost dry with most settings but I have yet to install the moisture sensor to see if that helps in addition to the internal-bias thermistor. I am the kind of person that does one thing at a time so at least I now know the thermistor was bad. Good luck and hang in there with your own repair. It's a lot cheaper even if it takes you longer to do than a pro.

Remove bottom panel was able to remove the element from the bottom without taking off the whole front and removing the drum simply remove the panel remove the two wires connected to the coil unbolted the bracket that was held on by two small bolts then removed the 4 bolts holding the bracket together was able to remove the heating element and then put everything back together did not have to remove the drum the top or the back panel To complete the repair I am not an appliance repair technician just a homeowner but I was still able to repair this myself and it’s working just fine

Just like video except there were two screws in back to take control head off. Be prepared to have shop vacation ready. Clean dryer duct too. Have bandaids ready. Plastic triangles are not easy to take off, video makes it look easy.

I disconnect the power, then the vent pipe. I removed the back panel of the dryer to access the pulley and removed the belt. Replaced the back and put everything back together.

Inside the dryer tub, remove the filter housing by removing two phillips head screws. Unplug the sensor wires, note when replacing wires, black wire goes on upper sensor.
Separate filter grill from housing. Using the pliers, compress the tabs on the sensor plugs and push it thru the grill. The small blade screwdriver may come in handy here to pry up on sensor to assist in pulling the plug end through the grill. Replace the sensors by hooking short end into grill and pushing the long end through the grill. When replacing the housing to the dryer, the most difficult thing is getting the screwdriver onto the recessed screws. Be sure to put the tab on top of the housing under the dryer frame when rotating the assembly into place.

With the correct parts and watching the video, it was so easy to repair. We ordered the wrong part (for the Electric Dryer when it should have been for the Residential Dryer) but the return was easy and we got the new parts super fast. Next time I would probably look at the offending part first before ordering just to make certain. But we used a socket set and Philips screwdriver and actually had our teens do all the work for experience. Fixed the loud noise one and for all.

Using the Torx Screwdriver, we removed the door from the unit. Then we removed all of the screws on the inside of the washer door. After that we flipped it over and opened it up exposing the inside. We couldn't separate them entirely because there was a screw under the latch piece that we couldn't figure out how to get to. However with all the screws out on the inside of the door, we did have enough room to open it up and access the place cover that holds the hinges in. Once we accessed that we removed the roller tips from the old unit and placed them on the new one. Then we reversed the process. With a couple screws in we realized we had put the hinge in reversed from what it needed to be, so we reopened it and switched it around. Then completed replacing all the screws and reattached it to the washer. It opens and closes perfectly and we saved a couple hundred dollars for sure, as the quote to come out had been a $150 trip charge.

I moved the dryer to a location where I could get to both the front and back sides. I opened the back by first removing the top cover and then the back. It requires either a Phillips head screwdriver or a quarter inch socket. In addition, it requires removing the four power wires which connect to the computer. If you are unfamiliar with the wiring layout, take a photo with your cell phone which you can then refer to when re-assembling. Once the back was removed, I saw that the belt was still intact, but the pulley which provides tension to the belt was frozen. Take a photo of the belt route between the motor and the pulley. Try to get the spring position in the photo. Remove the belt from the pulley by reducing the tension and then sliding the belt out (this assumes the belt is not broken). The pulley arm is held in place by a single bolt which can be removed by a socket set. Remove the arm with the pulley attached. Examine the pulley to figure out why it is frozen. In my case, the pulley had been frozen for some time and the belt had actually chewed through the pulley and was sliding (polishing) on the pulley axle? I used a pair of pliers to loosen the destroyed pulley by rotating it back and forth over the axle while gripping the arm the axle is attached to. As it loosened up I worked it off the axle. I used a cloth to clean the axle of grime from the belt, pulley, and dryer lint. The new pulley comes with a washer and triangular plastic "fastener". First you put on the washer, then the pulley and then you secure it on the axle by sliding the triangular fastener over the axle so it sits in a small grove near the end of the axle. Then put the pulley arm back by replacing the bolt. Make sure you do not overtighten the arm since it is intended to rotate about the bolt. If the dryer belt breaks, the spring will pull the arm down and throw a cutoff switch. Its operation should be obvious. Once the arm is back in place, refer to your photo and replace the spring (this can be tricky and frustrating, particularly if you don't use something like needle nose pliers). Once the spring is in place, depress it and re-install the dryer belt. Refer to the photo you took earlier if you've forgotten how the belt was routed. Then re-install the dryer's back panel, re-attach the electric wires (again refer to the photo you took earlier), and re-attach the top cover. You might want to test your handiwork at this point before you reconnect the dryer vent

once the back is off remove belt from tentioner and remove v clip. smooth shaft with wd-40 and scotch brite , then install new idler replace v clip
and your done !!!

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Rather than remove the front panels, door, control panel and drum, I noticed 1/4" metal screws on the back panel. There were approximately 6 holding the back panel in place. I did have to remove the top panel as well before removing the back. Once removed I had complete access to the broken idler pulley assembly. I immediately saw the broken pulley. I installed the new one with very little effort. Reset the belt according to instructions from the video. Reassembled, plugged in, hit start and enjoyed the sweet sounds of success. All told it took me about 20 minutes from start to finish.

I'm still waiting on my idler pulley. It arrived at Fed EX depot in Tracy CA on December 14th and has still not been shipped. So it is pretty fucking hard for me to install it! Maybe if you had customer service that would answer their phones or reply to my Emails would be helpful

Viewed a video provided on this site for disassembly etc. It was not my exact same model, but the instructions were pretty much spot on. The main issues we had were just that it was bulky etc. and somewhat heavy. We could not really work on it in place, so we had to drag it to the kitchen area. I found the existing heater element to be open upon inspection. Changed it out with the one I purchased which was an exact replacement. The drum rollers, motor pulley, and belt did not really look bad, but since I ordered the repair kit, I went ahead and replaced all of them. I was glad I did because it is much quieter now. The only thing I did differently was I cut off the existing plastic triangle keepers for the rollers with my diagonal cutters instead of work them off with a small screwdriver like in the video, which saved some time and frustration. New ones were provided in the kit I purchased anyway. I also would recommend marking the front of the drum somehow so there is no confusion which way it goes when you put it back together. Works as good as new now, good for another 10 years (I hope).

My dryer starter squeaking in December 09 and the repairman told me that it would cost between $200-$500. I did not let him fix it as this machine is only 3 years old. When the part finally broke in April 10, I was ready to junk this and just buy a used dryer. My husband went on line and quickly figured out the part he would need to do the repairs. It cost under $20.00. Now my dryer is fixed and running and there are no squeaks. Thank you