LGL7646EQ0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions
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The dryer belt broke. During the effort to replace the belt it was noted that the lint trap housing seals were in need of replacement.
With the dryer taken apart to replace the broken belt it was obvious that the lint seals had not been working properly due to the excessive amount of lint covering all of the inside surfaces of the dryer. The belt idler pully had also moved from its normal mounting position and was laying at the bottom of the dryer. Because the lint had covered the bottom before the belt broke it was obvious to determine where the idler pully attached to the bottom.
Before cleaning I marked the exact location where the idler pully mounted to the bottom of the dryer.
While waiting for the replacement parts to be delivered a vacuum cleaner was used to remove lint from the inside surfaces of the dryer as well as the old fragments of the lint trap housing seals were removed and surfaces where the new seals would attach were cleaned.
Assembling the dryer with the new belt was a challenge due to the lack of support for the drum while getting the new belt in place, lined up properly, threaded through the idler pully and attached to the motor drive shaft. This is how I installed the new belt:
I used a piece of wood wider than the sides of the dryer, drilled holes that allowed for a piece of cloths line rope to be looped through and used to support the door opening end of the drum.
The drum was set on the seal and rollers at the back of the dryer.
The temporary wood /rope hanger was placed at the front end of the dryer resting on the sides with the top of the dryer raised.
The rope was adjusted until the drum rested on the back rollers and the rope like it would be positioned normally.
The new belt was then gently installed under the temporary support rope and around the drum.
The new belt had many kinks from shipping and was difficult to align with the location on the drum where it needs to ride so small strips of tape were temporarily used to hold the new belt in position until it could be fed through the idler pully and on to the drive shaft.
Several small pieces of a cardboard box were used to shim under the idler pully to hold it in its proper location as well as to make the belt attachment to the drive shaft easier.
With the belt attached, the temporary cardboard shims were removed from under the idler pully.
The front of the dryer was attached .
The temporary board and rope hanger was removed.
The tape that had been placed over the new belt to hold it in proper alignment was removed as the drum was rotated slowly by hand to ensure that all tape was removed prior to closing the top of the dryer.
The seals as well as the remainder of the dryer assembly was completed without any problems.
The dryer ran well for its initial trial spin and has dried several loads of laundry since.
Great parts and support Thankyou
Before cleaning I marked the exact location where the idler pully mounted to the bottom of the dryer.
While waiting for the replacement parts to be delivered a vacuum cleaner was used to remove lint from the inside surfaces of the dryer as well as the old fragments of the lint trap housing seals were removed and surfaces where the new seals would attach were cleaned.
Assembling the dryer with the new belt was a challenge due to the lack of support for the drum while getting the new belt in place, lined up properly, threaded through the idler pully and attached to the motor drive shaft. This is how I installed the new belt:
I used a piece of wood wider than the sides of the dryer, drilled holes that allowed for a piece of cloths line rope to be looped through and used to support the door opening end of the drum.
The drum was set on the seal and rollers at the back of the dryer.
The temporary wood /rope hanger was placed at the front end of the dryer resting on the sides with the top of the dryer raised.
The rope was adjusted until the drum rested on the back rollers and the rope like it would be positioned normally.
The new belt was then gently installed under the temporary support rope and around the drum.
The new belt had many kinks from shipping and was difficult to align with the location on the drum where it needs to ride so small strips of tape were temporarily used to hold the new belt in position until it could be fed through the idler pully and on to the drive shaft.
Several small pieces of a cardboard box were used to shim under the idler pully to hold it in its proper location as well as to make the belt attachment to the drive shaft easier.
With the belt attached, the temporary cardboard shims were removed from under the idler pully.
The front of the dryer was attached .
The temporary board and rope hanger was removed.
The tape that had been placed over the new belt to hold it in proper alignment was removed as the drum was rotated slowly by hand to ensure that all tape was removed prior to closing the top of the dryer.
The seals as well as the remainder of the dryer assembly was completed without any problems.
The dryer ran well for its initial trial spin and has dried several loads of laundry since.
Great parts and support Thankyou
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- Customer:
- Roger from Bonners Ferry, ID
- Parts Used:
- WP338906
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Dryer would not heat up.
I unplugged the dryer,removed the two small screws on the front of the dryer and pulled the bottom forward. The two wires connected to the door do not have to be removed. With an electrical tester using the Ohm setting I tested the Radiant sensor and the Gas Valve coils. The two terminal coil was DOA. The dryer can be operated with the front open as long as the door wires are connected. Symptons: The igniter would heat up and not release gas. My repair was successfull due to this awesome website and the super fast shipping service. AAAA++++
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Dryer would not tumble.
I wasn't sure if the problem was the belt (probable) or the idler pulley assembly (less likely) but the total for both parts was about $26 plus shipping. So why not replace both to be sure?
As it turns out, my original idler pulley assembly does not turn. Rather, it has a concave semi-circular piece that is fixed in place. The belt ran in a groove in that piece.
The replacement part has a nylon wheel that turns. As a result of replacing the idler pulley assembly (which I don't think was necessary to fix my tumbling problem) the dryer runs much quieter. (We used to get a fair amount of squeaking when the belt rubbed).
As for the actual repair (I would rate myself as above average on tackling household repairs), it was about the simplest repair I've ever done. I followed the video provided on this site (excellent video) and it took less than 20 minutes -- cleaning up all of the lint/odds and ends under the washer and dryer took longer than the actual repair.
My only issue (minor) was disconnecting the electric harness. It did not slide as easily as in the video. I had to coax mine a bit with a small screwdriver (make sure your dryer is unplugged!!). I suspect it was simply a function of the harness never being unplugged -- the dryer is 9 years old.
I also felt great because I'm sure I saved a $125 service call (for only $26 in parts and 20 minutes of my life).
Good luck!
As it turns out, my original idler pulley assembly does not turn. Rather, it has a concave semi-circular piece that is fixed in place. The belt ran in a groove in that piece.
The replacement part has a nylon wheel that turns. As a result of replacing the idler pulley assembly (which I don't think was necessary to fix my tumbling problem) the dryer runs much quieter. (We used to get a fair amount of squeaking when the belt rubbed).
As for the actual repair (I would rate myself as above average on tackling household repairs), it was about the simplest repair I've ever done. I followed the video provided on this site (excellent video) and it took less than 20 minutes -- cleaning up all of the lint/odds and ends under the washer and dryer took longer than the actual repair.
My only issue (minor) was disconnecting the electric harness. It did not slide as easily as in the video. I had to coax mine a bit with a small screwdriver (make sure your dryer is unplugged!!). I suspect it was simply a function of the harness never being unplugged -- the dryer is 9 years old.
I also felt great because I'm sure I saved a $125 service call (for only $26 in parts and 20 minutes of my life).
Good luck!
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from Wilmington, IL
- Parts Used:
- W10820036
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Lid closes, switch wouldn't turn on machine.
Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams. Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.
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- Customer:
- Leonard from Lemitar, NM
- Parts Used:
- 49572A
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
Convert gas dryer to Propane
Received conversion kit. Removed front dryer panel,2 screws. Removed burner tube, 2 screws then removed natural gas orfice.
Installed propane orfice and repalced burner tube.
Removed regulater plug and replaced with new plug from kit using 90 degree ratchet screw driver. Approximately 20 minutes. Dryer working great.
Installed propane orfice and repalced burner tube.
Removed regulater plug and replaced with new plug from kit using 90 degree ratchet screw driver. Approximately 20 minutes. Dryer working great.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Maricopa, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WP3406107
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broken door switch
Followed your online video for disassembly and it was not only educational but actually quite simple. I would recommend that you start the video with," make sure the power cord is disconnected from the power source". I have worked on numerous pieces of large electrical equipment and would strongly suggest this be added. Some people think if it's, "off", it's safe. Your phone staff when ordering was great. We will do business again.
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- Customer:
- Christy from Riley, MI
- Parts Used:
- WP338906
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Dyer would not heat, flame would shut off within 10 seconds
I opened the panel, undid the plugs, detached the radiant sensor by undoing one screw and removed and replaced the part. Fairly simply.
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- Customer:
- valerie from Elasmore, KS
- Parts Used:
- 279311
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
dryer stoped heating
the problem was not the igniter its was the thermal fuse I broke the igniter during inspection of the problem be careful its a very easy thing to break repairs complete thank you parts select for the quick shipping and low prices
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- Customer:
- Denton from Indianapolis, IN
- Parts Used:
- WP22002263, WP3406107
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer working but drum light not working, bulb ok.
Problem: Drum light not working, bulb ok. Removed 6 screws on panel behind timer, light, buzzer, switches. Lifted back of dryer top then moved dryer top forward and off of dryer. The switch was located above the door. Unhooked wiring plug and took out 2 screws holding in the switch. Installed new switch and repaced bulb. Reassembled as needed and tested light by opening door. Works great.
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- Customer:
- Russell from Santa Maria, CA
- Parts Used:
- 279311
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
No Heat, no ignition in burner
Our dryer would not heat and it seemed that no gas was coming from the regulator. The igniter was working fine but the burner never turned on. To check the problem, i followed the instructions to remove all body panels until I had access to the burner assembly. I dismantled both gas valve coils and tested each one for open or closed circuit using my multi-tester. I found that the three terminal gas valve coil was an open circuit and was not functioning so I ordered a new one from PartSelect and within just a couple days, had the drier back up and functioning. I also replaced the igniter due to a malfunctioning igniter that has been changed by the manufacture. I must say that PartSelect has the fastest shipping I have ever seen. One part I ordered was at my door in less than 24 hours and I only paid standard shipping...un real! OUTSTANDING....5 STAR SERVICE
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- Customer:
- Chris from Laguna Niguel, CA
- Parts Used:
- 279834
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Would not heat sometimes
Pulled the big front panel by removing two screws near bottom of front and pulling out at bottom until the top pops loose. Vacuumed out all of the dust and checked for loose connections. Ran dryer - igniter would light, but no gas. Checked the two solenoids with a VOM. the one with the two leads would intermittently read Infinity (open). Super simple repair. Remove two screws on solenoid bracket on top of the gas valve, Replace solenoid and plug it back in with the easy push-on connector. NO PROBLEM - all fixed.
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- Customer:
- Douglas from COMMERCE, TX
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Replaced belt while I was in there replacing motor
If you were to do the Belt Replacement only, here is the quick synopsis:
1. Unplug dryer;
2a. Open lint door on top of dryer and remove the two phillips head screws that hold the lint bay to the metal dryer top;
2b. Next remove the two brakets holding the metal top to the dryer back (one screw on each bracket);
3. Use a flat-blade screw driver to pry off the top of the dryer (leaving the timer and start button area attached);
4. Lift off top and push back to expose just enough area so you can get to the two screws holding the dryer sides to the dryer front;
5. Unplug door switch;
6. Unscrew screws from #4;
7. With door open, lift dryer front (only about an inch) and then pry bottom of dryer front from dryer sides. The bottom of the dryer front is not screwed, just siting on Front Panel Clips;
8. Once the front is off the dryer, simply remove the belt and install the new one. Please note that while you are in here, you may want to inspect the rear drum seal and replace if it is worn to the point where metal is rubbing on metal. This is also a good time to clean out dust from inside this cavity to help extend the life of the bearings on the rollers and prevent dust from accumulating and gunking up the motor, etc.
9. Re-assemble tin the opposite order.
If you have any mechanical sense at all and you don't know anything about dryers, you will be surprised at the simplicity of the dryer.
1. Unplug dryer;
2a. Open lint door on top of dryer and remove the two phillips head screws that hold the lint bay to the metal dryer top;
2b. Next remove the two brakets holding the metal top to the dryer back (one screw on each bracket);
3. Use a flat-blade screw driver to pry off the top of the dryer (leaving the timer and start button area attached);
4. Lift off top and push back to expose just enough area so you can get to the two screws holding the dryer sides to the dryer front;
5. Unplug door switch;
6. Unscrew screws from #4;
7. With door open, lift dryer front (only about an inch) and then pry bottom of dryer front from dryer sides. The bottom of the dryer front is not screwed, just siting on Front Panel Clips;
8. Once the front is off the dryer, simply remove the belt and install the new one. Please note that while you are in here, you may want to inspect the rear drum seal and replace if it is worn to the point where metal is rubbing on metal. This is also a good time to clean out dust from inside this cavity to help extend the life of the bearings on the rollers and prevent dust from accumulating and gunking up the motor, etc.
9. Re-assemble tin the opposite order.
If you have any mechanical sense at all and you don't know anything about dryers, you will be surprised at the simplicity of the dryer.
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- Customer:
- Glen from Plano, TX
- Parts Used:
- W10820036
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Washer would fill up, wash, then stop
I deduced the lid switch was the problem.
I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.
The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.
The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
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- Customer:
- Tracie from Culver City, CA
- Parts Used:
- 279311
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
dryer worked but no heat
Initially we thought the problem was the igniter, so we ordered an igniter kit. Installed it but was unsuccessful. We then went on the websight and read further, about 50% of dryers with no heat but working had a problem with the thermal fuse.So we ordered the thermal fuse installed it, which was very easy, and success. Once the problem was diagnosed properly it was fast and easy. Recommend looking at the statistics for specific problem.
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Replaced two parts in the gas heater assembly
I removed the front panel of the dryer by removing the 2 screw that secure it at the bottom and pulling upward to disconnect the cover at the top. I then removed the two screws that hold the metal cover that secures the 2 elements in place. I disconnected the wire plugs from the 2 elements, removed the 2 elements and replaced them with the new parts making sure to place them in the same positions as before. I then replaced the housing cover and tightened the screws. Then I replaced the front cover of the dryer.
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